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Unlike liquid, dry yeast shouldn't lose viability as long as the package is intact and it isn't exposed to real extremes of temperature. Your packs are well within the best by date and are likely to be good for years beyond that. So I don't really get the title you chose for the thread. But...

a picture is worth a thousand words

Some days I consider it a minor miracle if my feet strike the floor before 9 AM.

By pasteurizing? Of course they wouldn't have called it pasteurizing.

I didn't throw any kits under the bus. I did throw the "standard extract kit instructions" under the bus, and I stand by that.

They're not that unusual, but they probably are cheap Chinese imports. I have a few of them that are working fine so far, but I've never use one on a liquid post.

Yeah, standard extract kit instructions almost guarantee at least some scorching of the LME. What do they think is going to happen when you add thick heavy malt syrup to a pot of boiling water at high heat on your stovetop? Some of it almost has to sink to the bottom and scorch before you can...

I'm wondering if this is meant to say lager not larger, based on OP's other posts.

No idea really, since I've never brewed or tasted it. Looks like the Youngs' kits may be pre-hopped LME rather than having a separate hop extract in the kit for you to add. Search the forums to find some folks actual experiences with these kits. This thread for example.

Yeah, great beer but not exactly sessionable. How have you changed it so far and how happy are you with those changes?

Yes, I read the instructions. That's why I said that I don't think they provide a lager yeast. That's what I thought; no help.

Just thought of another one, inspired by @Gadjobrinus - The Trouble with Tripels.

Ah yes, the trouble with tripels.

Lagers brewed with proper lager yeasts are usually fermented at lower temperatures; maybe 12-18C or thereabouts. Since the kit instructions tell you to ferment at 20-25C, I'm assuming that they provided an ale yeast and you're really making a cream ale. Not that there's anything wrong with that...

I think that if you ferment at 20-25C it's probably not really a lager and if it's already at 1.002 there's no reason to give it a stir. Leave it alone. Ignore the airlock. Check the gravity again in a couple of days.

These kits and instructions are very short on detail. Plugged my best guesses into Brewer's Friend and got OG = 1.038 and FG = 1.004. The recipe requires the addition of a kg of extra fermentables. Did you use corn sugar, table sugar, LME or beer enhancer? Anyway, wait a couple of days and...

Catbird tail Brow-eyed ale and of course, figgy pudding

How long is the 1/4" tubing you're using now? Not sure about the sputtering. Does it do that every time? Darkening could be a sign of oxidation.

If you topped off too much then your OG would have been lower not higher. Probably should have been around 1.050, and there's no way to create extra specific gravity from that extract. So like I said, 1.080 can only be explained by a volume error or poor mixing/stratification.

They're color coded: yellow = 17 PSI red = 35 PSI green = 65 PSI gray = 100 PSI The 4 and 8 liter oxebar kegs are only rated for 58 PSI, so the tapping head for those comes with a red PRV. Williams Brewing lists the item as "Oxebar 20L Amber PET Keg & Pressure Fermenter Tank" and has the video...