Recent content by stefan646

Yes, it is used especially on lagers, but I am thinking it could be working on ales as well.

I use plain sugar in each bottle the first time and it was a mess. Then I use bulk priming in a bucket and never had problem with consistently. When transferring from the fermenter to the bottling bucket the siphoning is causing a continuous whirlpool so the sugar is mixed well. + there is the...

Could you please like to elaborate? How could adding separate sugar in to each bottle could result in more consistent carbonation than bulk priming, and also be faster?

Been there, done that, never happen again ! Now I only bottle using a priming bucket. I am planning to mount a ball valve to transfer the beer from the fermenting vessel to the priming bucket.

Hello guys, I am usually making 5 gallon ale batches, I do not keg and I don't have a fermentation chamber - both are due the lack of space. I am planning to make a SS fermenter and I could ferment under pressure. My plan is to do that because (in theory) I could ferment at higher...

This is the first time I chilled in to the kettle because I had to wait for the wort to cool to 160F an was getting late :( Usually after the flameout I put the hot wort directly in to the bucket and let it cool till the next day when I pitch - never had a problem this way Anyway a shine of...

I hope you are wrong :)) - the only way to find out is to wait to see how the beer tastes in the end SRJHops - I mash at a precise 67C using BIAB, so no sparge. I will buy some pH strips as their are cheap, so we will see if the PH is the problem couchsending - I will think about it, and see if...

I usually make recipes that have a total of 1 oz hops and taste them before going to fermenter because I had some problem with scorching(I don't have it anymore with the new heating element). They all taste bitter, but this NEIPA taste poisonous bitter :D I added all 6 oz of hops after the worth...

Thank you Dgallo In the spare time I randomly read things from all 194 pages and I found another reasons that I should do the dry hop in the day 2-3 : the diacetyl problem of US-05 after a big dry hop post fermentation. Maybe I should use only the S-04 after this batch

Hello guys, I brew this beer last night and this morning I transfer it to the bucket (no chill). I miss my water numbers(damn those hops consume a lot :D ) so I end with 17l of wort and a FG of 1066. I think that I will add 3.5l of water to adjust it to 1055. Despite that all went fine, but here...

Hello guys, I brew this beer 6 days ago, and today I took a gravity reading and it went from 1056(I used a little more grains) to 1012 with US-05. The problem is that it has only a slight smell of coriander, but it doesn't taste at all of coriander or orange peels, I get only the bitter from the...

I don't have a co2 tank, but I could buy one if that will make such a big difference. That's why I asked about it, so that I could loose the direct bottling from primary- but it seems that for now I will stick with that My LHBS supply(I live in Europe) has almost all Weyermann malt and only...

I think as well that the dry hop should be done after the fermentation, but: -the OP suggests that the dry hop should be done in 2-3 day after fermentation starts - because I never had done a NEIPA I don't know if this is for style or for best hop utilization/aroma/flavor - user SRJHops...

I think that for now I will stick only with one dry hop on the second day, and see how this goes. Today my grains had arrived so my plan is to do so: -2.5 kg Weyermann Pilsner -2.5 kg Weyermann Pale Ale -0.5 kg Weyerman Wheat Pale -0.1 kg Weyerman Melanoidin (my LHBS doesn't have Honey malt)...

Hello guys, I am preparing to make this recipe(my first IPA) using no chill method and bottling - I have no other options ! My questions are: 1) regard the flameout/whirlpool hops addition: should I move all the 6 oz hops to FWH or should I wait until the wort chills to 160 and then add the...