So when you sparge do you set the water profile in the full kettle then take like 2 gallons out? That might help me actually be able to fit bigger beers into my 10 gallon pot too
I typically follow biabcalculator.com for my mash volume when brewing my beer. Recently I've started to investigate why my efficiency has been really low 60% or less and maybe more important, very inconsistent. I got some good advice to try to mill more fine which I will ask tht brew store to do...
Interesting. I've never really looked into the grain crush because I just buy them from a local brew store and whatever their "default" milling is. Should i ask them to run it through twice? I thought I recall really fine grain being an issue but maybe I'm wrong.
Thanks I definitely think...
I've been doing BIAB for my last 4 all grain batches and have noticed really low mash and brew house efficiency especially on two of the batches. I keep reading BIAB should net you 75-80% but I get low 60s and then this last time my pre boil gravity only went up a few points which is really...
Thanks for these replies and that link. I never thought about oxidation during cold crashing but that makes sense. Although for me even though oxygen is sucked in the volume of co2 will shrink but still be there and since it is heavier than o2 shouldn't it be what is sitting on top of the beer...
I have starting kegging so hopefully will avoid the priming sugar influence and will consider skipping secondary although I thought it was there to help clear the beer. Also have not of cold crashing as chance to introduce oxygen. Is that a thing? I typically just cold crash in the fermenter...
I made a NEIPA with citra, Ella and galaxy hops. It fermented for 10 days with citra being added during active fermented and Ella and galaxy added 5 days to go with a cold crash last 2 days. I just put the hop pellets directly in.
I moved to keg and did my best to keep out o2 but didn't do...
Here's a pic. Just literally poured it now. Cold crashed for 2 days but no gelatin or anything so not super clear. Color is about what I expected. Maybe it just is not enough hops and modify the water profile.
Thanks. My plan next beer is to add the following. I'm hoping this helps.
Any other thoughts? I do think I could've dry hopped more and added later in the fermenter which I'm probably over correcting in my next. Just don't want another only malt bomb.
I recently brewed a double IPA with Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops. I was going for a very hop forward beer but with enough malt backbone to not be overwhelming. Unfortunately what I got was a very malt forward 9% beer with only a slight Mosaic aroma and trying to figure out why. Here's my...
I've heard about that but it doesn't make much sense to me. The whole point of dry hopping is to add aroma so isn't all that aroma then lost since the yeast is activating working and producing CO2 which is then being off gassed. So it seems like it would make a wonderful smelling area where you...
I'm on my second home beer but first one not from a kit and am wondering about secondary fermentation or really conditioning. I know there's debate whether that is truly necessary but that's not my question here because I already moved to secondary vessel because I use that opportunity to dry...
Thanks everyone. So one more question. If the yeast I am using asks for fermentation temp of 65-70 but my house is kept 72-74 (it's summer in Texas so that's actually pretty low!) do I need to worry about cooling the starter?