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It is actually a 60 minute mash (followed by a lactic fermentation, short boil, normal fermentation). Explanation is here: http://seancoates.com/blogs/berliner-weisse S

http://www.phpdoc.info/brew/boilcalc.html might help you. I have 2x3000W elements in my kettle. I use all 6000W (actually less because the elements are rated @ 240V, but I actually get ~220V) to bring ~13gal to a boil, and then maintain boil with only 3000W. S

FWIW, I was measuring the temperature of the chill water in my tests, not the temperature inside the cooler. Yeah, I do think insulation would have helped, but I'm sure that the main problem was underpowered peltiers/supply. S

Remember: 40A @ 12V is only 4A @ 120V. (480 watts) I tried to build a Peltier swamp bucket with some peltiers given to me by another guy in the club (from an old office water cooler), but they just weren't powerful enough to get the temp down more than a couple °C (uninsulated, but well cooled...

Brewmongous day today. 2x10gal batches, split 4 ways. S

Nice job, olllllo. The real trick, though, is to link it somewhere. As in this beer is brewmongous. S

Here you go: http://www.maxim-ic.com/quick_view2.cfm/qv_pk/2738/t/al S

No, it switches both legs. I guess I meant DPST. Edit: and I plug it in every time I use it (it's not permanent); it plugs into my dryer outlet. S

Request samples; it takes a while, but they're free S

I have a big SPDT knife switch for that (-: S

Well, that was just a visual representation. The LM35, measured directly is noisy. It's analog, so <shrug/> close enough for most applications, though. Anyway, yes, the sine wave is due to temperature regulation. Here's 6 hours: It is sampled 500 times and averaged, once per minute (to get...

My LM35s are very noisy. I'd expect the green line to be much smoother (though the cable to the fermenter is not shielded, and it's ~4m long): Which is part of why I'm switching to DS1624s. I'm fermenting a lager (-: S

They use I2C (or TWI/Two-Wire). I'm still building mine, but the first one, I've embedded in a capped 1/2" copper pipe and filled the wire side with epoxy. The copper is a good thermal conductor, so it's still very responsive. I intend to place one in my fermenter fridge, one in my kegerator...

I get 0.03°C accuracy out of my Maxim DS1624s on my Arduino. I'm moving all of my sensors (from thermistors, then LM35s) to DS1624. They're $8 each, but the samples were free (-: (they are, however, a few orders of magnitude harder to read than the previous sensors) S

My SSRs are all Normally Open (N.O.), +5v closes the high side. <shrug/> Up to you. Can't hurt (except the wallet) to have 2, I guess. S

Why two SSRs? One should be sufficient (break one leg). S

The only places I've heard of them being around here (Montreal) are at restaurant/outdoor supply shops. I bought a 60L Igloo and switched to batch/continuous sparging. Screw paying $120 for a MLT (without fittings). S

Hey Yuri, congrats on making the Make: Blog. http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/04/arduino_beer_brewing.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890 S

This heat/boil time calculator might help, too: http://www.phpdoc.info/brew/boilcalc.html S

To be clear: don't run an element rated for 120v at 240v. See http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/ohmslaw.htm for simple Ohm's law calculations. S