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Since you are reworking the system, you might as well check the o-ring on the beer out post. It’s possible that you have a slow leak allowing gas from the headspace into your beer line. The symptoms of which can look very similar to CO2 breakout.

Ok, just my ignorance showing. It was my general understanding that a 240v circuit is actually two 120v loads out of phase with each other. But I guess I should have known better seeing that the plug is missing a common wire. Always more to learn...

Something on this diagram doesn’t look right to me. You appear to be switching only L1 with the SSR? For a 240v setup, shouldn’t you be switching both L1 and L2? Unless I’m misreading it and you are actually driving a 120v element, but the contactor setup suggests otherwise.

Also, if I had to guess, the most likely source of your leak is going to be the water seperators that you have installed right before the shutoff valves. I've used these many times on air compressor lines to help protect my air tools and they rarely are leak proof. The shrader valve, and the...

The cheapest and easiest way to check for leaks is to buy some leak detector solution, or make some yourself by diluting some liquid dish soap with water. Turn on the CO2, and apply the solution liberally to each fitting one at a time and watch for any bubbles forming.

Also, make sure you are not trying to attach a pipe thread fitting to a flared fitting. It will never seal.

I'll just make a couple points here. Thread tape and other sealants like rector seal should ONLY be used on pipe thread. They have no place in flared fittings, and actually make things worse, not better. On flared fittings, the seal is a compression seal between the flared surfaces. The...

Just a heads up that both of the links on your website point to the same file.

Just keep in mind that a valve does nothing to regulate pressure. It only regulates how fast the gas can flow. A valve opened slightly will just build pressure slowly until it matches your regulator setting or until the valve is manually closed. So by toggling the gas valve on and off, you...

Perfect, thanks. I think I know what direction I need to take it now.

I'm trying to finalize my plans for a coffin keezer. Like many others this will include circulation fans for the freezer, tower cooling fan(s) and led strip lights. I was thinking instead of having separate power supplies for each of the 12v accessories, I would simplify things and use a din...

Looks perfect, thanks for clarifying.

That would be pretty cool, but I think you'd want to build in a minimum delay between compressor cycles to give the system a chance to stabilize.

The weight of the factory lid is not what worries me. It’s the weight of the new lid that I plan to build that does (coffin keezer). Although, I have a feeling I’ll have to replace them with something a little more stout . Forgot to mention that Costco had these for $139.

Got a screaming deal on a Hisense 7.2 from Costco for my keezer build. It should easily hold 3 sixtels on the floor. After I got it home, I pulled the caps off the hinges and could not find a way to pin the hinges for removal. Any ideas on how to safely immobilize this thing?

Are you shanks mounted directly to the drywall? If so, I'd recommend reenforcing that with a plywood backer between the studs. Even something like 1/4" will make a huge difference in durability. Edit: not to mention, the drywall will not like any humidity that will build up in the system.

After reading through 20 plus pages on this thread, I have one question. Are the 650ss faucets worth the extra expense? If you had to do it over again, would you get them?

Working on my coffin keezer design, and I'm trying to figure out the proper beer shank length setup. The material thickness where the shanks will be mounted will be 3" to 3-3/4" thick (depending on if I need a spacer to allow for tap handle clearance). I want to have a little extra extra...

Getting ready to start my Keezer build, and plan on making the front and sides of the freezer a chalkboard surface. Luckily, the freezer skin is not textured, so I don't have to worry about working over the surface with glazing putty to smooth things out. My plan is/was sanding down the...

I'm putting together a list of everything that I need to order for my keezer build and need some help identifying some fittings required. Initially the keezer will be set up for commercial sixtles and I plan on running 3/16 bevseal ultra with John guest fittings throughout. My question is...