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It'll still be beer. As far as I'm aware just the risk of infection and not getting the desired bitterness are the main downsides to not boiling your wort but other more experienced Brewers might have more insight.

Did you boil your wort? Typically you would steep the grains, then add the malt extract and start you 60 minute boil at which point you would throw in your hop additions at the specified times. (60 mins left in the boil in your case). As far as your yeast, if it's a dry pack, re-hydrating is...

So after a few days in the fridge and put it in the freezer for 15 mins before opening and it came out looking pretty good! Tastes great too! Thanks everyone for the help.

Thanks everyone, I'll wait a while longer and see where we're at.

Thanks, as often is the case, I should just wait more.

Rye IPA using US-05 dry packet. Two weeks in primary may not have been long enough and I did move it before racking to bottling bucket so maybe that's why. Thanks.

Unfortunately I can't cold crash right now, I don't have the equipment/space so that'll be a problem to overcome in the new year after I move. I was using a swamp cooler for fermentation. I thought I stayed above the trub but it's entirely possible I got some into the bottling bucket or...

No, as mentioned above I left a good half inch in the bottle.

I'm hoping someone can provide some insight. As you can see, there's a lot of stuff floating around in there. I racked to a bottling bucket before bottling and I left the usual half inch or so of beer in the bottle when poured. My only idea is maybe it needs to condition longer? I only let it...

It's been suggested to me that pH could be the problem and adding potassium carbonate and re-pitching could get fermentation going again. Can anyone attest to this?

A lot of what I've read suggests making a tincture with vodka and your spices letting that sit for a week or two and add the flavouring at bottling time.

It'll be two pouches of hopped extract. Check the bottom of the pouch for a yeast pack you will need to have yeast.

If it's stable at that SG reading over a few days it's probably done.

450g Dark Crystal Malt (Crushed) 170g Malted Wheat(Crushed) 90g Black Malt(Crushed) 5.2kg Unhopped Dark liquid malt extract 52g Simcoe hops (Boiling) 55g Cascade hops (Flavouring hops) 85g Simcoe hops (Finishing hops) Nottingham ale yeast Steeped grains for 30 minutes @ 155-160 F. Added LME...

Took an SG reading only dropped to 1.028 from 1.030 in about a week after re-pitching. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

Quick question and I don't mean to derail the thread too much but can I ferment a 1gal or 3gal batch in my fermenter? I don't have a big enough pot for a full 5 gallon boil and I'm wondering if head space in the fermenter is a bad thing. As for the topic at hand, I'm brand new at home brewing...

I added more yeast about 24 hrs ago still not much going on. I guess I'll just wait it out another week and see where we end up.

I'll give it a try thanks.

Give it more time, 75-80 won't kill the yeast as far as I know but someone more experienced than me might have more insight.

Ah ok. I asked if I should get two packs and the guy at the store told me I wouldn't need two. According to calculator I need at least another pack. Thanks for your input.