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Isn't that how you take in a lot of oxygen that changes the taste and shortens the shelf life?

I bottled this beer. The sediment is massive so I lost 2 liters of beer more than what normally. The color is light yellow, like lemonade, the taste is not bad, but the wheat aroma is pronounced. The bitterness of the hops is not felt. The beer is quite clear. Obviously, it settled well so the...

Maybe your carbonation temperature is too low? A week at 25'C is best. My beers are less carbonated in the winter because the temperature in my room is below 22'C, so it takes up to three weeks to properly carbonate. But in the summer, it has the correct foam already after five days.

If the harvest yeast is not good pour the sugar water into the fermenter because it will reactivate the yeast from the bottom.

I also use a small funnel to pour table sugar directly into the bottles, but the best method would be to use a bottling bucket. Dissolve the required amount of sugar in a little boiled water, pour it into the bottling bucket when it cools down and slowly pour the beer from the fermenter using a...

I gave up on the autosiphon a long time ago because it injects too much air into my beer, but I cut its tube, put a hose through that tube, which is marked so that it reaches 3 cm (one inch) before the bottom of the fermenter, and now I draw the beer with my mouth.

Metaklapa - Fear of the Dark A relatively new group that combines klapa (traditional male polyphonic singing, without instrumentals, originating from the region of Dalmatia, Croatia) and heavy metal music. The video was shot in a renovated medieval castle in the north of Croatia and the...

Writing journal is very helpful and I endorse it as good practice.

Of course, not everything, but everything you need to make a good beer.

Read brulosophy (experiments, recipes), search and ask on the forums and, most importantly, brew and experiment as much as possible and you will know everything very quickly. I found a lot of these books on the Internet and there is a lot of knowledge and theory, but they didn't help me like...

I have already harvest yeast with a large trub before and there were no problems with the fermentation of the next batch.

I know that yeast stress causes underpitching, higher alcohol levels, and that it is not good to harvest yeast from a beer with a lot of hops. This beer has none of that, so hopefully my fear is unwarranted.

I do not know. I am thinking. Because of a lot of protein in it. It's different than what I've done so far, so I'm wondering a lot.

I'm thinking about how stressed the yeast will be from this beer and is it worth the risk and harvest it for the next batch, as I usually do?

I also had such an idea a few years ago, but I didn't need it until now, so I didn't even try to realize it.

I don't have the ability to do it that way. Nevermind, I tried. Now let's see what kind of beer will turn out in a month.

You probably mean that I put the bag in the bucket and gently massage it to release as much wort as possible.

You already mentioned it, but I don't know how to do it? Now I just lift the bag and squeeze it, leave it in a plastic bucket, after ten minutes I pour out the liquid that collects in the bucket and squeeze the bag again and so on several times.

Today I brewed a batch of 50% pilsner malt and 50% white wheat flour using my standard BIAB method. A real adrenaline experience that turned into panic in moments. Although I mixed the flour and grain dry well, large balls formed in the mash, which I kept breaking up, so I extended the mash...

I agree with you, but I know that the people I buy from grind the grain immediately before packaging and shipping, and I brew often so that I use it up in two months at most.