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Cool project. I have a low tech version - you could call it a Sanke-Kettle Fermenter: http://worldclassbeer.blogspot.com/2013/06/life-loves-used-sanke-keg.html But can't be pressurized (much)

This is my version of a fermenter using a Sanke Keg - its very Low Tech by comparison but allows for the flexibility of using the Sanke in a multipurpose way (can still use as a Kettle or HLT etc) http://worldclassbeer.blogspot.com/2013/06/life-loves-used-sanke-keg.html

Stimon - all of us at my brewclub have been watching your Youtube Video and I see that you are planning to join Homebrewtalk. If you are visiting Vancouver BC in Canada in the next while be sure to include the last Thursday of the month - you are invited to come to one of our meetings :rockin:

Lots of threads on gelatin -here's one: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/gelatin-finings-question-57634/

It will cause an anode/cathode type electochemical reaction which will erode the copper and deposit on the stainless (or is it the other way around?). Some will invariably wind up in the beer but it may not be enough to matter. I'm more concerned with long contact times with brass (as there...

It's funny this question - how much beer do I have to ferment to asphyxiate in a closed room - gets asked every few years. If you search around, someone actually did the calculation (its quite safe). BTW the "sting" from inhaling CO2 is a noxious affect as it converts to acid as it hits...

Sounds good. Remember any "lambic" is actually a pLambic (pseudo lambic) - so go ahead and get creative. Its more the bugs than the malt that get to "shine" in lambic. If you are trying to win competition, the only thing I would avoid is too much dark malts.

Yes, that's what I would do - didn't specify sealing pressure required.

If you feel it tastes OK then its done. I would be concerned about Acetaldehyde and diacetyl. Even when the gravity is down, active yeast are still "cleaning up" some residual products. I would consider leaving the corny unpressurized at room temp for another week then rush the carbonation...

I understand how it looks suspicious to you - spoon of some of the scum, smell and taste it: if its sour, or otherwise off, it may be infected. Even so it may still be worth bottling as a sour beer.

This will probably not be the best - the temp tolerance is too great (range of temp swing). I really liked this one that I bought off ebay: Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Aquarium °F | eBay but you would have to get it shipped and also you would need to sort out an enclosure and...

You can "re culture" the yeast if you wish - ie build up a new cake from a small sample, this time in ideal conditions. But, don't use the current cake unless you want the next beer to taste like the current one.

How to Brew - By John Palmer - Yeast Starters and Diacetyl Rests

You lucky Americans with you cheap beer. In Canada the cheapest bottled beer will run you about $2 plus a 0.10 deposit on the bottle.

76% Apparent Attenuation That's done.

Hey can we get a section of the forum for "10th level beer nerds only"? There are either a bunch of trolls on this thread so far or some folks have seriously flawed models of what is going on in their bottled beer. Oxygen in the headspace will lead to oxidation over time. This is...

Yeast actually prefer anaerobic metabolism in a sugar rich enviroment. Even if you bubble in air, if the glucose concentration is above about 1% (sorry I can't recall the exact figure) they will preferentially take it anaerobically. Its only when they get down to the last little bit of carbon...

If you want to make it easy on yourself then just use the Pilsen extract and the right yeast and ferment conditions. You can improve the profile a little bit by adding a certain proportion of wheat malt too (say 30%)

From some experience you will be able to do this on the fly however when starting up: Online tools like this can help http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator or consider a software suite like BeerSmith or Promash

The problem is, once you've boiled it to drive off CO3, you no longer know what the profile is - surely your total Ca will be higher but by how much. I don't know if you want to try doing a 1hr 5 gal boil and get it re- analyzed or if its better off to just dilute.