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Assuming that it is a correctly wired 4-prong outlet, for 30amp, you should be fine. But, to ensure is okay, take a volt-meter and check your outlet for correct wiring which is according to the NEMA outlay of that plug. If you need help with testing or determining, let me know.

Okay, so I'm back after a hiatus (had to get the company $$ pipeline filled). Anyway, brewed last weekend and got psyched about reviving this project since I do have all the parts. Hell, they've been sitting in a box for a year! Gonna wire this up and see if it works! Check out my wiring...

The relay arrived today, so time to tinker. Sheesh, no wiring diagram for the relay. Damn, something else to figure out (cryptic drawing on side of relay is murky).

Those "look" like 12 gage wires, but they could be 14's. You do have a couple options, but selection of one will limit they other. For instance, if you go the 120V option, that limits you to 2400W, but would have a neutral and ground. Go the 240V option, then you would have double the watts...

Breakers can be deceiving. A new breaker typically comes in a tripped (middle position). You need to flip the breaker all the way in the off position, first (it will click). Then, throw it on.

Well, if you can rewire from the panel to the plug-in (or hard wire) location, you have lotsa options. May as well run 10 gage wire so you can do what you want. What size kettle do you have (you asked about element size)? Or, just go all out and install a 240V, 60amp circuit. Why wait? :ban:

The 20 amp breaker is one thing, but that 14/3 is (theoretically) the weak point. That is 14 gage wire, rated at 15 amps. Okay, beyond THAT, a couple things: - as mentioned by Passedpawn, insulating the kettle will most likely get you up to your desired temp. - I checked that link and I need...

Ahhh, I was in the thought pattern of toggling back/forth the switch on DP. Based on your input it would be: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/906/=kv9kn0 McMaster-Carr part #7266K43 which is a Spade-Terminal Relay DPDT, 12 DC Control Voltage via those sensors and pipe through 120V for the...

Agree 100%, thanks tophmck & P-J for feedback. Hell, I have a BSEE and run an electrical/photovoltaic contracting company, but scratch my head on some of this stuff. My thinking is that since the sensors are NO operation, I would use two so they could toggle the relay (SPDT) and trigger the...

Hi Squ1rrel, Need to know the following: - wire size (gage) and/or circuit (amps) of the ciruit (outlet you are using). - kettle size (volume) - spec on that heater you are using (watts) If you are using a 20amp (12 AWG) circuit, that is good for 2,400Watts (MAX). If it is a 15amp (14 AWG)...

P-J, thanks for the feedback (sorry about the PM)! I've attached the spec sheet for the sensors below. It is NO operation mode with power on the input to the sensor and power on the output to trigger the SPDT relay. Or, that is the hope!

JCO, thanks for your feedback. The cycle time will be based on the separation of the two sensors. Since they are NO operated, I thought a SPDT relay would work well. It would basically toggle back and forth between on/off. The relay and sensor would be off of 12VDC to trigger the pump...

They can be adjusted up/down on the sight tube. The gap between the sensors will dictate the cycle time. Here is a mock-up I did on the sight tube with the sensors (NOTE: will use zip ties instead of rubber bands). I am just waiting for someone to check if I have the correct SPDT relay.:mug:

The sensors are NO activated, so would need two: one for the higher level and one for the lower level.

Just started this build and hope to get some input on the design, mainly need to make sure I have the right relay (see schematic). Background I typically take 45-60min for a 5 gallon batch to sparge and up to 2 hours for bigger batches. Adjusting the input/output of the sparge is tedious - I...

Cool, another solar powered brewery.:rockin: You're going to be blown away about how quiet an electric brewing setup is. And, take your time with the build: Measure twice, cut once.:cross:

I had to bend (straighten out) the curved element. If you take your time, it will bend any shape you want. However, I think it is best to go with a straight one if you have the option. The 1 3/8" hole cutter is perfect for the 1.5" ferrule. Since it cuts less, it lets the 1.5" ferrule site...

I used the hammered paint (primed first) on my control panel and while it turned out excellent, BUT it can chip easily. So, you may want to try it out on a scrap piece of wood and see how durable it is. Also, to see how it looks on wood.

I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping. PM me.

Here's mine: