Search results

They're my go to online beer ingredient store. I've been ordering from them for 2+ years and never an issue. One of the main reasons I use them is their mill setting for crushed grain is 0.035", which works really well for my system. I'd asked about their settings when I first started shopping...

I use the Spike CIP ball, which connects to a 1.5" TC in the lid. Paired with my brew pump, which is basically a chugger pump it works great.

I have a CF10 and recirculate within the system with warm water and PBW for 30 minutes. I usually manually scrub any large debris off, flush, then I mix about 2 gallons of hot tap water (120F) and PBW in the FV. I connect the 2" dump valve to my pump with a hose, then another hose up to the CIP...

Yep.

$180 new, asking $150. Never used, and will ship in original packaging. Located in southern Maine, but willing to ship anywhere in the lower 48.

Same here. I wait 5-10 minutes for the grain to absorb water, then start the pump nearly closed and slowly bring it up to 1/4 flow. Very little grain in my kettle these days.

KBW, I also forgo any brew bags and have only had one issue with a stuck mash when my father was helping during a brew and at 45 minutes into the mash was scrapping the bottom of the basket while stirring. Everything compacted and stopped flowing, good times. Similar to SonomaBrewer my grain...

I've been averaging about 70% mash efficiency on my 10 gallon Solo on my last 4 brews. I use a 0.035" crush, stir every 15 minutes, use 4-6 oz of rice hulls as security and vorlauf for 15 minutes at 168. @SonomaBrewer I know you said you're not a numbers guy chasing efficiency, but do you know...

I use the CFC to drop the wort temperature from boiling to 175-180, which also sanitizes the chiller. Once at whirlpool temp I stop the chiller water, turn the element back on and set the PID to auto mode and the desired temp. Then I'll add hops and set my timer. I keep my pump and CFC all at...

You're operating the system exactly as Spike designed it, so I wouldn't say you're doing anything wrong. It's just a limitation of the Spike Solo design with the tapered basket, side pickup and large amount of deadspace. Earlier in this thread (page 2 or 3) there is some discussion about...

I bag my whirlpool hops and tie them off to the handle, but otherwise I'm doing the same setup and temp. If I'm trying to get some noticeable hop isomerization for an APA/IPA I may whirlpool for 30 minutes.

It certainly helps the wort drain through the grains evenly, so it looks like a better setup if nothing else. But in practice, I was also changing my grain crush and adding rice hulls in some batches so it's really hard to tell if it made any difference in my numbers. I also press the grains...

I had the same concern, so I added a brace under the basket port to hold it level while lautering.

My pleasure, glad it was an easy fix. I was born and raised in Maine, moved away for 16 years, moved back almost four years ago, and some would still consider me "from away". Tough crowd.

Five batches in on my Solo 10, and I think I'm finally starting to hit my stride with the system. Good recirculation is pretty key in controlling the grain bed mash temp. I'm using 0.035" triple roller milled 2-row, adding rice hulls as 3-5% of grain bill, allow grains to sit for 10 minutes...

I have the Solo 10 gallon and the evaporation rate is between 0.5 - 0.6 gal/hr.

I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?

Yep, that's exactly the situation, thank you. I currently do the swap as soon as the krausen begins to subside and feel the active yeast scrub any oxygen ingress. But the cane and valve would be a guarantee.

It's not a photo comparison, but Spike does provide key dimensions on each size here.

I'll probably be upgrading to one of these for my Flex+ when they become available. Is there really a situation where having both a PRV and blow off installed is needed though? Seems like it would be either or, as you cannot pressurize with the blow off installed. I must be missing something...