Dry hopping with fermonster closed system

[Bob C.]

Perhaps someone already stated this, anyway... I saw a video where a guy had a great idea for dry hopping without opening the fermonster. After he put the wort in the fermonster he took the bag of dry hops and put the bag in the fermonster at the top, out of the wort, and held it there with sanitized food grade magnets. When it came time for dry hopping he just pulled the magnets from the outside of the fermonster and the dry hops fell into the beer. I will be trying this tomorrow - I'll let you know.

 

[seatazzz]

I've used this method, and it works great. I have the blue silicone covered sous vide magnets. Magnets also work great as weights to get the hops down in the beer. One issue I had was my dry hop (I think the last one I did was about 4oz) was a bit too heavy for the magnet and it fell in too early. Solution is to use TWO magnets on the outside, will help hold a heavier bag.

 

[Dgallo]

You could definitely do it but you’ll greatly limit the extraction you’re getting from the hops.
1) Dryhoping in bags prevent the hops from moving free reducing surface area and a lot of the compounds will remain in the bag with the hops instead of in your beer.

2) which is related to the first, is by having the bag in there during fermentation, the Krausen will certainly rise into the bag. Krausen with coat the bag to some extent greatly reducing its permeability and will prevent compound the negatives of bagging hops.

What I do with my fermonster with the modified lid, is I put a liquid balllock fitting on my co2 line and I will connect it to the floating dip tube. I will begin removing the top to dryhop, before it opens I quit connect the co2 with liquid balllock on the lids liquid post. Then I open the lid just enough to add my dryhops while the floating diptube is running co2 into the fermenter on the surface of the beer, greatly reducing the ability for o2 to get in. Hops go in, set the lid on the top allowing the co2 to still flow for 5 seconds. Then I start tightening and take off the gas. Works like a charm to prevent oxidation. This picture is of a beer that’s been kegs 2.5 months

 

[Yesfan]

.......What I do with my fermonster with the modified lid, is I put a liquid balllock fitting on my co2 line and I will connect it to the floating dip tube. I will begin removing the top to dryhop, before it opens I quit connect the co2 with liquid balllock on the lids liquid post. Then I open the lid just enough to add my dryhops while the floating diptube is running co2 into the fermenter on the surface of the beer, greatly reducing the ability for o2 to get in. Hops go in, set the lid on the top allowing the co2 to still flow for 5 seconds. Then I start tightening and take off the gas. Works like a charm to prevent oxidation. This picture is of a beer that’s been kegs 2.5 months View attachment 840189

To add, universal posts on the lid or using Kegland's disconnects would eliminate the swapping of disconnects using your method.

 

[Dgallo]

To add, universal posts on the lid or using Kegland's disconnects would eliminate the swapping of disconnects using your method.

Very true. I personally use duotight fittings so it just as quick to change it out as QD

 

[Yesfan]

Very true. I personally use duotight fittings so it just as quick to change it out as QD

Agree there too. So many ways to skin the homebrewing cat.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Perhaps someone already stated this, anyway... I saw a video where a guy had a great idea for dry hopping without opening the fermonster. After he put the wort in the fermonster he took the bag of dry hops and put the bag in the fermonster at the top, out of the wort, and held it there with sanitized food grade magnets. When it came time for dry hopping he just pulled the magnets from the outside of the fermonster and the dry hops fell into the beer. I will be trying this tomorrow - I'll let you know.

How did it work? I have done this a few times. I would do it more but I often ferment 2.7 gals of wort in my "3 gal" Fermonster (which tops out at around 3.2 gals) and there is just not a lot of headspace to keep the hops up out of the beer and krausen.

Use a large hop sack and roll up the top (this can be tricky, so practice it a few times before your fermenter is filled with beer). Instead of just pulling off the outside magnets, I will slide them down the side of the fermenter so it pulls the hop sack down into the beer.

 

[Brewer Mike]

Is a little O2 ingress during active fermentation a big deal, or are you dry hopping after fermentation is complete?

 

[Whisky River]

Obviously the sky’s the limit for closed system dry hopping designs but if you don’t mind spending a few $ and want a no-drill plug and play solution you can easily put a 1.5 inch Tri clamp fitting on the fermonster lid with the bung hole. Then it’s just a matter of putting on whatever attachments you want. Maybe a 4 way cross with a gas post and liquid post to floating dip tube on the sides and a blanking plate on top. Just run the co2 in the gas post, pop the top off and pour them in. Or you could get fancy with a butterfly valve or dry hopping sight glass if you really wanted to go big!

 

[Dgallo]

Obviously the sky’s the limit for closed system dry hopping designs but if you don’t mind spending a few $ and want a no-drill plug and play solution you can easily put a 1.5 inch Tri clamp fitting on the fermonster lid with the bung hole. Then it’s just a matter of putting on whatever attachments you want. Maybe a 4 way cross with a gas post and liquid post to floating dip tube on the sides and a blanking plate on top. Just run the co2 in the gas post, pop the top off and pour them in. Or you could get fancy with a butterfly valve or dry hopping sight glass if you really wanted to go big!

Seems like it would add probably $80-$100 and add additional height but definitely a workable option for those without height restrictions

 

[Yesfan]

Obviously the sky’s the limit for closed system dry hopping designs but if you don’t mind spending a few $ and want a no-drill plug and play solution you can easily put a 1.5 inch Tri clamp fitting on the fermonster lid with the bung hole. Then it’s just a matter of putting on whatever attachments you want. Maybe a 4 way cross with a gas post and liquid post to floating dip tube on the sides and a blanking plate on top. Just run the co2 in the gas post, pop the top off and pour them in. Or you could get fancy with a butterfly valve or dry hopping sight glass if you really wanted to go big!

Seems like it would add probably $80-$100 and add additional height but definitely a workable option for those without height restrictions

The only negative is the added weight. I never experienced it with my Fermonsters when I had them, but aren't the lids bad about cracking and splitting on the sides? Seems like more weight on the lid would speed that up if true.

Not trying to poo-poo on that idea. It's a great idea, just thought it might be worth mentioning. I regret selling my Fermonsters. I like their sizes and being able to see the fermentation. That was one reason I bought a Fermzilla (other being pressurized transfers).

 

[Whisky River]

The only negative is the added weight. I never experienced it with my Fermonsters when I had them, but aren't the lids bad about cracking and splitting on the sides? Seems like more weight on the lid would speed that up if true.

Not trying to poo-poo on that idea. It's a great idea, just thought it might be worth mentioning. I regret selling my Fermonsters. I like their sizes and being able to see the fermentation. That was one reason I bought a Fermzilla (other being pressurized transfers).

Good points, weight and cost are always an issue. I think the lids are ok supporting some weight but sideways torque and over tightening can crack them. If you didn’t want to use the 4 way cross to keep weight and costs down, and you don’t mind drilling one hole, you could just use the 1.5 TC bulkhead and drill a hole and add a 90 degree elbow on the lid. Cap the TC fitting and use the elbow for your blow off tube, and when it’s time to dry hop, connect your co2 to the elbow (or to the end of the blow off tube) run co2 in while you open the TC and dump in your hops. For racking you would either need to use a spigot, or run the co2 again while you drop in a floating dip tube.
Lots of ways to skin the cat, but the versatility of the TC fitting opens up a lot of possibilities.

 

[Bob C.]

How did it work? I have done this a few times. I would do it more but I often ferment 2.7 gals of wort in my "3 gal" Fermonster (which tops out at around 3.2 gals) and there is just not a lot of headspace to keep the hops up out of the beer and krausen.

Use a large hop sack and roll up the top (this can be tricky, so practice it a few times before your fermenter is filled with beer). Instead of just pulling off the outside magnets, I will slide them down the side of the fermenter so it pulls the hop sack down into the beer.

Here is where we are; I have the fermentation going along fine. I put a heating pad on it becasue my basement runs about 63 - 64 when it is sunny outside (thermostat placement). I looked today and the hop bag is still above the wort but the pellets have expanded because of the humid environment in the fermentor. After the fermentation stops I'll give it a few days and drop the "dry" hops. I'll keep you posted.

 

[mac_1103]

Eh, the hops get wet when you drop them into the beer anyway. I always thought it would make more sense to call it "cold hopping" instead.

 

[Dgallo]

Here is where we are; I have the fermentation going along fine. I put a heating pad on it becasue my basement runs about 63 - 64 when it is sunny outside (thermostat placement). I looked today and the hop bag is still above the wort but the pellets have expanded because of the humid environment in the fermentor. After the fermentation stops I'll give it a few days and drop the "dry" hops. I'll keep you posted.

It’s still floating because the yeast are still active. Some put a shot glass in their bags to it sink.