Pictures of the internal tubing above I think. Surely a boil recirculate and PBW will kill off any souring bacteria, otherwise what would be the point of boiling a kettle sour before ferment with a normal yeast?
Had a couple of pints in the Hepworth Brewery tap the other week. Didn't seem overly bitter or unbalanced.
Very good brewery tour of Hepworths on the get er brewed youtube. Head brewer used to be at the sadly long closed King and Barnes brewery.
@robumba
You are right the beer will " carbonate " with the beer gas at the correct pressure and temp.
Post ferment there will be dissolved CO2 in the beer depending on the temp
Completely flat stout served with beer gas straight off will taste a little flat, but is drinkable.
@ctfoust
You'll be fine, you have a big vessel and a sensible batch size. There's an efficiency hit bút just parti gyle a free beer.
Big beers are a challenge though.
Chaptalise is useful for a stout but I wouldn't use it for a barley wine.
I used the rubber fittings that go in the lids of fermenters that make the bubbler / airlock " airtight", used a little bit of silicone oil on the inside of each one to help the tubes slide.
Using my Guten 70 which is a similar vol AIO.
Last barley wine was batch 23 litres, BHE 68%,
OG 1.127 and FG 1.028
Grain bill total 14.3 kg, WLP 099 big pitch starter, oxygenated, roused, nutrients, no reiterated mash, 27 mash water and 9 litre sparge.
Made a 20 litre 1.044 partigyle best...
I think the sparkler should be at the bottom of the glass as you start to pour/ pull. Let this move up the glass as it fills.
There's a reason for the long neck and sparkler, southern taps have short spout and no or a loose sparkler.
Still a good looking pint though.
If you fix the tube with inner tube to ball lock the line cleaning is easy using the kegland
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/red-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight?_pos=2&_psq=carbonat&_ss=e&_v=1.0
I just put this in a container of water warm initially when cleaning the...
You definitely will find that biggest gauge line from your corny is better. 1/4 would be tedious.
Vinyl might be crap but better than silicone. It's not a good idea to have your engine connected to the corny and a full cylinder of beer for ages between pulls. It will stale in the engine...
@hotbeer
No I'm just measuring the wort sample, post mash, post sparge, post boil and after filling fermenter. No late sugar additions.
Mixing wine kits with water is a challenge to get an effective mix.
But I'm seeing this issue with all grain brews.
That's my question really, I need to mix it very well after it has cooled to get even measurements. Why would this occur if stratification can't occur in a well mixed fluid before the sample is taken?
I do note using a clear fermenter that's conical for 95+ % of my brews that cold break does...
Why can I get different gravity readings from the same sample pot when I take samples of wort. Using electronic refractometer and with the temp stable.
Mixing the sample thoroughly ensures all of the readings are the same.
If not mixed obvious differences between top and bottom of the sample?