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Thanks for the input, about what strength is short 7ish? The batches are about 10 and 15% I'm going to try it anyway since knowing what over pitched nutrients tastes like might help me with future troubleshooting

I'll try to do this next week only with mead instead of water, I've got a couple batches that need bottling so I'll put a little in a canning jar and add the fermaid-O to that

The above quote is Bray Dennard in the BOMM thread so you should be alright to add fermaid-O I'm not sure if it would help though.

I'd pull them off, it sounds like the yield would be very small if they did manage to ripen and if they don't it's just a complete waste of your trees energy

My favorite yeast so far is d47; I read an article with a 13th century mead recipe and the recipe called for "drestis" from ale which I think is what we now call lees here's the link https://www.openculture.com/2023/09/how-to-make-medieval-mead-a-13th-century-recipe.html the spelling is rough...

Have you taken a gravity reading? If not it's possible it's still fermenting. Sometimes as mead gets towards the end fermentation creeps along very slowly, if your temperatures are different from last year that might be causing it, what yeast did you use?

Mead is quite resistant to oxidation and that was very little exposure so you should be fine if it was oxidized you'll pick up a wet cardboard taste No Either is fine but if it seems like it's carbonated you might want to switch to an airlock so the stopper doesn't get pushed out No, of I...

It's Sodium Metabisulfite in tablet form

Not sure I oxygenate first but also before each nutrient feeding Yes Never tried a Wyeast, Lalvin d47 is considered a good all around yeast for traditionals, qa23 is good for meads with tropical or citrus flavors, 71b is good for meads with berries Never tried them A couple of times I tasted...

Traditional mead

In the US ingredients on food labels are listed according to volume so if it just says "Fuji apple juice, apple juice" you should have at least half fuji

They've got a great grocery store juice to cider thread going on in the cider forum https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/plumbers-cider.730652/ never done cider so I've got no idea which yeast is better

I didn't understand how much a high OG stresses yeast or what a big difference in taste different yeast strains make, I had used 10lbs of honey and water to 3 gallons with ec1118 and front loaded nutrients:no: it came out alright but took almost 4 months to finish fermenting

The yeast loved the big dose of nutrients, had some water coming out the airlock I usually stop aerating after the 3rd day would it be beneficial to do it longer?

Alright I'll throw the rest in later today when I aerate it I actually use a spoon or spatula handle and mix it til the foaming slows then go back and forth for 15-20 minutes to get it more air

I used 15lbs of honey and water to 5 gallons

Yeah, the reading was just over 1.050, I always pour part of the honey in then put water in the honey jar and shake it til it mixes to make it go down the funnel faster, I've had honey drop to the bottom before and it goes away in a few days, as i understand it the honey is "dryer" than water...

You probably should have done the acid additions post fermentation, they mess with the PH levels which can cause fermentation problems, if your mead is on the floor and your basement has a cement/concrete floor it will keep it a little warmer if you put wood or blanket or towel underneath it

56.5+1 gallon traditional+5 of Bochet for solera project = 62.5

Finally got mine started Took it slow and spent almost an hour getting it past the 220 mark after about 45 minutes started preheating the oven for dinner and the temp shot up into the 280s took me awhile to figure out why; even on the lowest setting it swayed between the 240s and 250s, ended up...