Having trouble with crimp on connectors, any advice?

[bjhbrew]

I've been slowly assembling a 220v 30amp control panel for an ebiab setup and getting frustrated with the unreliable crimps I've been getting. I do have plenty of experience with house wiring projects and smaller electronics work (tube amps) so I feel confident working on this project but this is my first time using crimps. As such I bought a ratcheting crimper on amazon (url below) along with a bunch of insulated crimps thinking that it would perform better than a multi tool type crimper. So far I haven't had the best of luck though; I tug on the wire to test the quality of the crimp and most of them pull apart with only moderate force. The only way I've had success is by twisting the stranded wire before crimping but I've read that your not supposed to do that. So... has anyone else had this problem? Is it because of the relatively low cost of the tool I bought (Junk?) I'm using the correct connector size as far as I know (10g stranded wire in a yellow connector and 16g stranded in a blue connector) I've had all the parts for my panel for almost a year now and it's killing me that I can't get it together and brew with it; please help!!

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[z-bob]

I bought a Channellock crimper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SBDI and it worked just fine on some 12 gauge wires that I crimped. I always twist the wires together but not tightly; just enough to make sure there are no stray strands.

 

[stevehaun]

The crimper you bought is adjustable. Tighten it by one notch and see if that fixes your weak crimps.

 

[bjhbrew]

Thanks for the replies. I should’ve said in the op that I’ve already tried adjusting my crispers and have them at the highest setting. No change. So now I wonder if I should try to get a different crisper, the channelock or other, or different crimps.

 

[Gameface]

I have that same crimper and have used it with success. I do twist the strands before crimping. Maybe try some different crimps?

Does the wire just barely fit into the crimp or is there room to spare? Might try going down a size if there's room to spare.

 

[rudylyon57]

I've been slowly assembling a 220v 30amp control panel for an ebiab setup and getting frustrated with the unreliable crimps I've been getting. I do have plenty of experience with house wiring projects and smaller electronics work (tube amps) so I feel confident working on this project but this is my first time using crimps. As such I bought a ratcheting crimper on amazon (url below) along with a bunch of insulated crimps thinking that it would perform better than a multi tool type crimper. So far I haven't had the best of luck though; I tug on the wire to test the quality of the crimp and most of them pull apart with only moderate force. The only way I've had success is by twisting the stranded wire before crimping but I've read that your not supposed to do that. So... has anyone else had this problem? Is it because of the relatively low cost of the tool I bought (Junk?) I'm using the correct connector size as far as I know (10g stranded wire in a yellow connector and 16g stranded in a blue connector) I've had all the parts for my panel for almost a year now and it's killing me that I can't get it together and brew with it; please help!!

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0069TRKJ0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I used exact same crimper and its worked fine. THHN 10 gage (power) in yellow and 18 gage (control) and up in red as I recall. Sounds close to what you've done.

 

[Tartan1]

Just a thought here, are you placing the terminal barrel completely on the jaw surface (the split sleeve part of the insulated connector) and leaving the insulation jacket portion outside the crimper? If you are partially crimping the insulation jacket at the same time that would explain the poor quality crimp. What I'm saying is if you have the stranded wire portion and the insulation of the wire on the jaw surface you are then crimping 2 different diameter surfaces, and thus a loose connection will result if this makes sense? On my crimper the exposed un- insulated part of the connector is flush with the front surface of the jaw before I crimp. Maybe if you could provide a pic of a completed crimp this might help explain the problem if it is technique related.

 

[bjhbrew]

Thank you to those who have commented, it gives me some hope that others have had success with the same crimper. I think I am crimping using the technique that tartan1 describes but I’ll try another one tonight and post a picture of my result after my son is in bed. In the meantime I’ll ask; does it matter which way the crimp tool faces? Another way of saying that, does it matter what side of the crimper die the split side of the crimp faces? Sorry if my terminology is wrong.

 

[Tartan1]

Here is a pretty good video which demonstrates connector orientation in the crimper.

 

[bjhbrew]

Well, I tried a few more... heres what it looked like.

Before crimping:

Then after:

It looks pretty secure but if I pull pretty hard the wire will pull out. Am I over thinking this? My understanding is that the heating cooling cycle during operation can cause a poor crimp to burn up.

I did another one where I used the crimper reverse of what the video tartan1 posted shows and it seems to be a little tighter. Oh but I also twisted the wires a bit so maybe that’s why it’s holding better.

So for those who have used crimps in your brew panel how tight should they be?

 

[tofuguy]

If you are concerned, solder after crimping.

One thing I see is you are using a very thick stranded wire, this will make it more difficult.

 

[doug293cz]

Second crimp looks better to me. The die in your crimper may be oriented 180° from the one in the video crimper. Can you post a close up of the die in your crimper?

Brew on :mug"

 

[Tartan1]

Second crimp looks better to me. The die in your crimper may be oriented 180° from the one in the video crimper. Can you post a close up of the die in your crimper?

^^^Good point Doug that's what I'm now wondering. I load my crimper the same way as the video but didn't account for variations between crimpers.^^^ OP... Your first pic shows you are crushing the insulation inside the protective plastic cover, note the deformity in the protective insulation cover . Also note how far back the raised dimple is from the face of the connector. That raised band (dimple) needs to be closer to the face of the connector much like your second picture. If you look on the upper jaw surface you should note there are dimples which are engraved in the surface and will leave an impression on the insulated part of the barrel as per your second picture When the crimper is closed without a connector have a look at the surface area of both sides of the jaw (colored dot side and opposite side), one side should be smaller and more or less semi circular than the other side. That smaller side should have a dimple in the upper jaw. I guess the simplest way to explain orientatation of the connector is to place the split side of the terminal facing up on the bottom jaw with the dimpled upper jaw closing downward onto the terminal. The dimpled edge needs to be closest the bare metal side of the terminal. I dont place any of the bare metal of the terminal in the jaw that part sticks out the front of the crimper.

 

[itsnotrequired]

another option is to ditch the crimped connectors altogether, provided your terminals are rated to accept 'naked' conductors. most of the typical compression-type terminals used do not require crimps and it is very common in industry to not use crimps either. screw-only terminals can be a crapshoot, some are rated for bare conductor and some are not. also be sure to see if the terminal is rated for only solid or stranded conductor (or both).