My first water profile adjustment for a Mosaic IPA

[wmubronco]

I've made this in the past, and it turned out tasty without water adjustment, but now I want to advance my techniques and dive into the water chemistry. A friend passed on Brun Water to me, and I think I got that hang out it. I appreciate any feedback you can give, thanks for looking!

Target Gravity: 1.068
IBUs: ~ 75

See picture below for water profile. Everything look decent?

 

[JonM]

Definitely get rid of the chalk. If your recipe is one that requires adding alkali, then you'd be much better off with pickling lime.

What is your recipe? I see you're adding both chalk and baking soda, both of which are alkali.

 

[wmubronco]

As I mentioned this is my first attempt at water adjustment.

Picture below shows original recipe.

 

[NervousDad]

I'm not a water whiz by any stretch, but I can't see why you would need to add anything but gypsum and CaCl to adjust your water for an IPA.

 

[wmubronco]

Got rid of the chalk and baking soda.

 

[JonM]

Have you inputted the right Lovibond numbers for your grains?

 

[wmubronco]

Have you inputted the right Lovibond numbers for your grains?

2 row: 2L
Crystal: 40L
Flaked Barley: 5L (changing it to 1 changed net mash acidity from 2.0 to 1.9 mEq/L)

 

[JonM]

Everything looks pretty good, but I'm puzzled by the fact that the estimated mash pH didn't change when you removed the chalk and baking soda.

 

[wmubronco]

I added the pickling lime, would that of accounted for it?

 

[JonM]

Whoops! I missed that. Duh. :smack:

 

[wmubronco]

No worries, I'm just trying to step into the right direction when adjusting my local tap water.

Aside the back and forth, the last adjustment look alright?

 

[wmubronco]

So further into reading for mineral and acid additions, says to add directly to the mash, and not just the water. What is the best practice for this, during the pouring in of grains? Then give everything a thorough mix afterwards?

For sparge additions, it states you can add directly to water or the boil kettle. Any suggestions to either of these?

 

[JonM]

Looks good.

I always dissolve the additions in the water before adding grain. You have a pretty thick mash, so I'd think you'd have trouble getting everything evenly distributed if you add the minerals to the mash.

 

[wmubronco]

Alright, just wanted to check different approaches.

At least it seems I am on the right track with adjusting my current water supply to match that of the pale ale profile. Would you recommend I add the additions after heating the mash water or prior to heating it? Guessing the former.

 

[Natdavis777]

Add the minerals to the mash water before doughing in. stir it up real nice then dough in as normal. The second additions can go straight into the boil.

I, for one, typically only use gypsum and CaCl, as your malt lends a bit of Mg. And Ive never seen the need to up my sodium content a few point. Therefore, I can abstain from MgSo4 and salt. As for alkali, I have recently learned from Ajdelange that chalk doesnt have an immediate effect on mash, and can gradually affect the beer pH days after. Hence, why pickling lime is the desired alkali. But even for a pale beer, Ive never needed to up my pH. Looked like your starting profile was pretty soft, aside from the elevated bicarbonate.

 

[mabrungard]

When starting with very low alkalinity water and adding high concentrations of Ca and Mg, then it is necessary to add alkalinity to avoid the mash pH from dropping too low. As the concentrations of Ca and Mg are reduced, the alkalinity needs are also reduced and there will be a point that acid will be needed. All of this is dependent upon those Ca and Mg concentrations.

 

[wmubronco]

Very useful information, thanks for posts!