I built my mash tun based on info from this thread and I've been super happy with it. But here are a couple thoughts I'd pass on to anybody looking to build one of these.
1) Use actual real stainless steel washers on the inside of the mash tun. I couldn't find actual stainless steel and the washers I used worked fine, but have eventually corroded enough that I'm ordering new real stainless steel washers from Bolt Depot. I haven't noticed anything terrible in the beers I've brewed, but it sure doesn't look like anything I want beer hanging out in.
2) Use a stainless steel braid from a water heater supply instead of the toilet supply hoses. Every person I know of that has complained about their stainless steel braid getting smashed or letting grain husks through has used the toilet supply hose. The water heater supply hoses are heavier duty and just the right length.
If you are doing a batch sparge their is absolutely no reason for the braid to be any more than a few inches. And I'm not sure that fact changes if you do a fly sparge. People say it makes a difference. I don't believe them and have never seen anything other than opinions to back it up. The water heater supply hoses are plenty long to reach from the ball valve all the way across the middle of the mash tun. That is plenty. AND they are strong enough not to get crushed by the weight of the grain or by any amount of stirring I've done in my mashes.
Follow these two bits of advice and you'll be glad that you won't have to replace washers. And you won't try to convince yourself to buy one of those actual bazooka screens or a false bottom.
1) Use actual real stainless steel washers on the inside of the mash tun. I couldn't find actual stainless steel and the washers I used worked fine, but have eventually corroded enough that I'm ordering new real stainless steel washers from Bolt Depot. I haven't noticed anything terrible in the beers I've brewed, but it sure doesn't look like anything I want beer hanging out in.
2) Use a stainless steel braid from a water heater supply instead of the toilet supply hoses. Every person I know of that has complained about their stainless steel braid getting smashed or letting grain husks through has used the toilet supply hose. The water heater supply hoses are heavier duty and just the right length.
If you are doing a batch sparge their is absolutely no reason for the braid to be any more than a few inches. And I'm not sure that fact changes if you do a fly sparge. People say it makes a difference. I don't believe them and have never seen anything other than opinions to back it up. The water heater supply hoses are plenty long to reach from the ball valve all the way across the middle of the mash tun. That is plenty. AND they are strong enough not to get crushed by the weight of the grain or by any amount of stirring I've done in my mashes.
Follow these two bits of advice and you'll be glad that you won't have to replace washers. And you won't try to convince yourself to buy one of those actual bazooka screens or a false bottom.