secretlevel
Well-Known Member
Dang, a bunch of people came out to the opening! Cool to see brewers supporting each other. How was opening day? Any fun guest beers?
I love escarpment’s funk stuff. They are the only ones that isolate Brett d. Really hard to get stateside. Who did you get them from?Just got a few packs of Escarpment Foggy London. I saw in a subreddit that a pro brewer uses it and said it can throw a bubblegum note. I'll be trying this yeast out in a few weeks.
I got it from Great Fermentations. Shipping was fast and included an ice pack.I love escarpment’s funk stuff. They are the only ones that isolate Brett d. Really hard to get stateside. Who did you get them from?
Good to know they carry them. It’s a Canadian lab, I’m hoping great fermentations has a bunch of their strainsI got it from Great Fermentations. Shipping was fast and included an ice pack.
Looks like they only carry 6 different strains. Better than nothing I guess.Good to know they carry them. It’s a Canadian lab, I’m hoping great fermentations has a bunch of their strains
Sounds like it’ll make a great beer. If you’re specifically looking for superdelic characteristics, they may be outshined by the citra, but it may work better as a supporting hop keep us posted!Did my starter over the weekend so hoping to brew this Friday. I've changed my idea again on the hop bill. Still going with Citra and Superdelic but going to throw in a bit of Nectaron now. Going with 7oz of Citra, 4oz of Superdelic and oz of Nectaron. So a 50/50 split between Citra and the NZ hops. How does this sound to people? I haven't opened the Superdelic yet to see how it smells but will beforehand just to be certain.
Aiming for an OG of 1.081 and finish around 1.018. First time using A24 so not 100% sure how it will perform so just going with a single infusion at 152F/67C.
That's my worry but for the first time using it could be the safer option. Those NZ hops can really take over. Going to do a small dry hop mid fermentation and rest of the dry hop after a soft crash as Superdelic seems to bring out different flavours depending when you use it.Sounds like it’ll make a great beer. If you’re specifically looking for superdelic characteristics, they may be outshined by the citra, but it may work better as a supporting hop keep us posted!
I wonder if it's S23. That was mareketed as a good yeast for biotransformation and is also known as a terrible yeast lolThat's Cellar Science Hazy! Terrible yeast!
That would really surprise me, I’ve made great beer using CS Hazy - I heard it’s a BSG ( edit: nope, AEG) dry LA3 and from my experience it tastes and looks like most LA3 beers I’ve had… except the last beer I made that sucks for other reasons!I wonder if it's S23. That was mareketed as a good yeast for biotransformation and is also known as a terrible yeast lol
Not this will help you, but I use a Bouncer filter to filter out hops and trub when closed transferring. I run a bit of beer through the filter and tube running to keg WITHOUT it being hooked up to keg. As the beer is flowing out of the tube that will be hooked up to keg I hook the liquid QD up to the line and then onto pop onto the keg. That way I clean out trub from the first pour from the fermenter and clear the line out of oxygen as an added bonus.I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.
After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....
I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.
- Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
- Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
- Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
- Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
- Other idea someone has here
If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.
If the pours are ok and just slow, I’d let it be. This used to happen to me a lot with stouts. No matter how meticulous I was, some mixture of cacao and/or coffee beans would make their way into my liquid line. I just lived with the slow pours.I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.
After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....
I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.
- Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
- Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
- Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
- Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
- Other idea someone has here
If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.
Ya if the pours are just slow and the carb/foam levels are fine, I would just leave it. But every time I’ve had trouble with a clog it’s always a little hop particle in the liquid post poppet. And that’s pretty low risk to just de pressurize the keg, unscrew the post, rinse out the poppet and put it back together. It only exposes that little section of air above the beer in the dip tube. Pour and beer and the rest of the should be fine.I kegged my latest NEIPA and looking for some advice. Did a closed transfer from the fermenter and the first bit in the transfer line looked like a big glob of krausen, trub, hops idk but not the nice light colored liquid that transferred after that. I have a FDT in the fermenter I draw out of and then FDT in the keg that I fill into. It's hard to tell what the "glob" was but guessing krausen worked it's way through the screen on the FDT during fermentation. My hope was it would settle out into the bottom of the keg and I would be fine from there.
After fast carbing the beer and putting it into my keezer the beer is pouring really slow so I'm guessing I still have some of whatever it is in the FDT line. So do I....
I also suppose it's possible I have another issue going on and it isn't anything stuck in the line, but I've been using this keezer set up a while and the other three kegs are pouring fine. I will check the line and probably pull apart the faucet just to be safe, but I did clean all of that when the last keg kicked.
- Try pushing some CO2 back through the FDT. I'm a little afraid if there is a plug this could just push the filter and float off the end of the line and then I'm in trouble.
- Open up the keg and try fix it and expose things to oxygen? I could try to CO2 purge after I do that but I know how things go when you have a keg open trying to fix things - I always end up with the lid open longer than I like. I also have a full corny keg and if I end up concluding I have to replace the FDT line I'm not sure how I'm going to do that with out putting my hand in the beer which seems like a bad plan.
- Just live with slow pours for one keg of beer - it's really slow but not so bad I couldn't live with it (and maybe things work themselves out and I get a glob in one glass I have to dump and then things are fine)
- Purge another keg and try another close transfer. But if the "glob" is in the line I probably just end up moving it to the second keg. Although it's weird that it isn't coming out when I pour.
- Other idea someone has here
If it wasn't a hazy IPA and for the fact that the precarbed taste I took was outstanding (Citra, Strata, I7 is one of my favorite hop combos) I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I really don't want to oxidize this one.
I think I will add a process step to push a bit of beer into a separate container after this experience.Not this will help you, but I use a Bouncer filter to filter out hops and trub when closed transferring. I run a bit of beer through the filter and tube running to keg WITHOUT it being hooked up to keg. As the beer is flowing out of the tube that will be hooked up to keg I hook the liquid QD up to the line and then onto pop onto the keg. That way I clean out trub from the first pour from the fermenter and clear the line out of oxygen as an added bonus.
If the pours are ok and just slow, I’d let it be. This used to happen to me a lot with stouts. No matter how meticulous I was, some mixture of cacao and/or coffee beans would make their way into my liquid line. I just lived with the slow pours.
Ya if the pours are just slow and the carb/foam levels are fine, I would just leave it. But every time I’ve had trouble with a clog it’s always a little hop particle in the liquid post poppet. And that’s pretty low risk to just de pressurize the keg, unscrew the post, rinse out the poppet and put it back together. It only exposes that little section of air above the beer in the dip tube. Pour and beer and the rest of the should be fine.
Brewer's Friend screenshot:How are yall calculating your brewers crystals in your brewing software?
Weird brewfather doesn't have it added for some odd reason.Brewer's Friend screenshot:
View attachment 843348
As long as you have a co2 blanket on while you clear the poppet, you should be fineI think I will add a process step to push a bit of beer into a separate container after this experience.
Thanks guys I think I will take off the post and see if that helps and otherwise live with it. Also thanks everyone for the tangent in the thread. I could have posted this in a kegging thread, but wanted to make sure the advice was "O2/NEIPA sensitive"
You can add it as 2row. It gives the same 36 pointsHow are yall calculating your brewers crystals in your brewing software?
I'm able to view the picture. It's just not embedded in the postAny idea why I can't get the picture to post? Tried from multiple ways and devices. Have posted many pictures here.
Yeah that's what I meant. Same on my end. Didn't do anything different then usual. I guess not a big dealI'm able to view the picture. It's just not embedded in the post
Looks great - are you liking that much bittering addition? What do you think of the maltodextrin?Reporting back. Finally a had chance to investigate the slow pour issue. Pulled the liquid post and noticed something black. The little o ring on the poppet came off and was stuck between the poppet and post. Quick easy fix.
Here’s the first real pour. This is my best yet. Lots of citrus and stone fruit and really smooth soft mouth feel.
Malts
72% 2 Row Xtra Pale
12.5% Malt Oat
12% White Wheat
3.5% Flaked Oats
Also added a pound of Malto for the first time (see several posts back I mentioned trying it to increase FG)
Hops
Magnum in boil to 39 IBUs
Strata and Idaho 7 Cryo in the Whirlpool
Citra, Strata and Idaho 7 in the DH
Yeast
Cellar Science Hazy - first time trying and after fermentation read some bad reviews and was nervous
OG 1.083
FG 1.022
View attachment 843537
There’s probably personal preference but I wouldn’t want to go lower than that on bitterness. Even at that it’s not strong. The flavor is citrus and fruity not bitterLooks great - are you liking that much bittering addition? What do you think of the maltodextrin?
I’ve been thinking about the difference between a WP for 20 minutes that a lot of us do and the WP most pros do - which might be a quick WP but it takes another 40 minutes to get the hot wort off the hops - so usually a 60 minutes whirpool - that might be a a 20+ibu difference. I think that why many of us here prefer a 10 minute addition or extra in bittering like you have.
Reporting back. Finally a had chance to investigate the slow pour issue. Pulled the liquid post and noticed something black. The little o ring on the poppet came off and was stuck between the poppet and post. Quick easy fix.
Here’s the first real pour. This is my best yet. Lots of citrus and stone fruit and really smooth soft mouth feel.
Malts
72% 2 Row Xtra Pale
12.5% Malt Oat
12% White Wheat
3.5% Flaked Oats
Also added a pound of Malto for the first time (see several posts back I mentioned trying it to increase FG)
Hops
Magnum in boil to 39 IBUs
Strata and Idaho 7 Cryo in the Whirlpool
Citra, Strata and Idaho 7 in the DH
Yeast
Cellar Science Hazy - first time trying and after fermentation read some bad reviews and was nervous
OG 1.083
FG 1.022
View attachment 843537
Take my comments maybe with a grain of salt because I love a dank ipa. I actually thought this could have a little more dank flavor. The citrus and fruit is more pronounced for me.I'm thinking about using this hop combo, but thought that it'd be a little too dank between Idaho 7 and Strata. Any thoughts there? Also, are all of your hops from YVH? Any cryo in DH?
That technique is called "DIP" hopping and its not during the dry hop, its performed during the whirlpool stage. You take a small portion of your wort, say 1 gallon and hold it at 170-175*f (75-80*c) and add roughly 4 oz of hop to it holding the temp for about 30min-1hr. During this time you are also whirlpool hoping the rest of your wort. Then your "DIP" hoped wort, hops and all go into your fermenter. Then you rack the rest of your wort (pitching temps) and rack it clean onto of what's already in the fermenter and then pitch.Hey guys. Thinking about experimenting with my dry hopping technique and would love to hear your thoughts - just brewed a DIPA and am going to hit it with a pretty large charge of Nelson (~6lbs/bbl).
I heard a rumour a while back that Alchemist uses a DH method where they create a slurry of hot water (82°C) and their dry hop charge and send it in through the bottom of their conical. It makes sense as that’s the temp I typically drop my WP down to, but am wondering if there are any opinions out there about this method?
I’m familiar with dip hopping - I’ve done it before along with the North Park extract method. My question was more so regarding the actual dry hop process, and the technique I mentioned above. I’ve heard that Greg Noonan used that method, but John Kimmich elevated the technique. The way I interpret it is dip hopping but post ferm, if that makes sense.That technique is called "DIP" hopping and it’s not during the dry hop, it’s performed during the whirlpool stage. You take a small portion of your wort, say 1 gallon and hold it at 170-175*f (75-80*c) and add roughly 4 oz of hop to it holding the temp for about 30min-1hr. During this time you are also whirlpool hoping the rest of your wort. Then your "DIP" hoped wort, hops and all go into your fermenter. Then you rack the rest of your wort (pitching temps) and rack it clean onto of what's already in the fermenter and then pitch.
That’s very new to me if they are doing this post ferm. do you happen to have the article(s) that this was stated, I’d be interested in reading it.I’m familiar with dip hopping - I’ve done it before along with the North Park extract method. My question was more so regarding the actual dry hop process, and the technique I mentioned above. I’ve heard that Greg Noonan used that method, but John Kimmich elevated the technique. The way I interpret it is dip hopping but post ferm, if that makes sense.
Let me try and find where I read this. I know Noonan briefly mentions this method in New brewing lager, but I’ll search for where Kimmich says this.That’s very new to me if they are doing this post ferm. do you happen to have the article(s) that this was stated, I’d be interested in reading it.
Seems like an o2 issue and would provide the same exact character of dip hoping or whirlpooling so im having a difficult out time seeing what’s advantageous about doing this post ferm
I do huge dryhop doses and never get grassy or hop burn unless my process/temps are messed up or the hops are bad.Let me try and find where I read this. I know Noonan briefly mentions this method in New brewing lager, but I’ll search for where Kimmich says this.
I think doing a good job purging whatever you are using to send the hops in with co2 would combat any o2 pick up. And as far as the character goes, I think the idea behind it is to use a temp suitable for extracting aroma and flavour, instead of doing a massive dh dose and getting something super grassy or burny
Enter your email address to join: