Braggot: add nutrients?

[scott_m]

I'm making a braggot tomorrow with the base recipe being a scottish ale:

marris otter 5lb
honey 3-3.5lb
crystal 40 1lb
crystal 120 .25lb
honey malt .5lb
pale chocolate 3oz

SG = 1.058

Using a starter of wyeast 1728 scottish ale. Should I add any nutrients because of the honey (which accounts for 1/3 of the fermentables)?

 

[BentBrewer]

It's unlikely to hurt anything.

 

[RWC]

Won't really need to unless you want "peace of mind". I have made straight meads without using nutrient. You should have more than enough nutrients with the other fermentables.

 

[Lefou]

No real need to use nutrients. Wort and honey will supply plenty of yeast food as long as you're at the right temperatures with a well-aerated batch.

When using dry yeast packets I've used a bit of Fermax mixed in filtered water and wort to get things started. It really didn't make a significant difference in a good wort.
If I'm using honey as a major ingredient in wort, which isn't often because it's an expensive sugar, I'll dilute it in some warm water. It gives a starter an extra energy boost. Every time I've used honey starter, the yeast never fails to rip through things - even when I intentionally underpitched a 5gal. batch, I had activity on the airlock in a few hours.

 

[biggmatt]

if you haven't bought it yet, you don't need honey malt. It is not that much honey flavor.

 

[cooperbl7]

With this particular malt bill, you should be fine without nutrients. It surely won't hurt to use 1/2 tsp in 5 gallons, if you want peace of mind (or if you're worried that it will finish too sweet). But I would not worry until you get to 1/2 or more of the fermentables from honey. Even then, use caution, or you may get a slightly vitamin-like taste and aroma.

For 5 gallons of mead: I like to use 2 tsp DAP with 1 tsp. Fermaid K for a typical strength, full-on mead (no malts) -- doing staggered nutrient additions. I add the nutrient mixture 1/2 tsp at a time, morning and night until it's gone. Ramp up the amount slightly for a sack mead, and reduce for a hydromel, or stronger / more honey-heavy braggots.

The nutrients are used by the yeast primarily as a source of nitrogen to build amino acids, and other elements they need for their cell walls, etc. Malt is a very good source of these components, while honey is relatively nutrient-poor.

 

[Mob_Barley]

I almost always add some kind of yeast nutrient to my beers. I keep a supply of Servomyces from White Lab on hand and drop one into the boil during the last 10 minutes. When it comes to yeast health, you can't go wrong by keeping them healthy. That being said, you shouldn't need any just because you are adding honey to your beer recipe.

 

[Jbkinn]

I'm making a braggot tomorrow with the base recipe being a scottish ale:

marris otter 5lb
honey 3-3.5lb
crystal 40 1lb
crystal 120 .25lb
honey malt .5lb
pale chocolate 3oz

SG = 1.058

Using a starter of wyeast 1728 scottish ale. Should I add any nutrients because of the honey (which accounts for 1/3 of the fermentables)?

Did you steady start? I have a straight mead and scotch ale ready to keg. My preference is to make each separately and blend them to make a braggot. That way I have control over the results.

 

[Jbkinn]

Did you steady start? I have a straight mead and scotch ale ready to keg. My preference is to make each separately and blend them to make a braggot. That way I have control over the results.

I meant already but the spell checker changed it

 

[scott_m]

Yeah it seemed to ferment really well. Still bubbling a little bit but gravity is 1.1013 (starting gravity was about 1.055). I had to add more honey than planned because the mash wasn't that efficient. So it's about 1/2 honey 1/2 malt I'd say at this point. First 12 hours or so fermentation was 68-70f. Then I setup a swamp cooler which dropped down to 65. Now it's been at 59 for a couple days!