Sorry double post....
Brau Supply
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With a six gallon kettle, a total batch volume of five gallons is certainly possible. It will be a tight squeeze. You will need to sparge, either using a dunk sparge placing the grain basket in another kettle or bucket and stirring to rinse the grain well, or a pour through sparge by slowly pouring water over the grain and collecting those runnings either in the kettle or another vessel. Sparge water temp isn't important, with the advantage of using hot water being less time to reach boil.
You can also boil a slightly smaller volume of higher gravity and top up with water to increase batch size.
Possible but tight given only a 6 gallon kettle. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1480757786.634978.jpg
I tried a 5 gallon IPA batch on the mini yesterday, it works ok. I steeped about 8.5 lbs of grain, main problem is when you pull that much grain out there is hardly any wort left. I set the basket and bag over the kettle and slowly poured hot water thru till it was just over 5 gallons. Gravity wasn't too bad it came to about 1050 pre-boil, I added corn sugar and got it to 1055. Boil was very weak with that much liquid so after 60 min I was at 1060 gravity and probably 4.75 gallons of wort into fermenter
OP
OP
Given your approximate volumes and numbers, sounds like a successful brew day! To really dial things in you're gonna want to take some more gravity readings and get your volume readings from "about" and "probably" to something that's a little firmer.
After you pulled the grains, but before sparging, I'm guessing you had about 3 or so gallons of wort at a gravity of ~1.065-1.070. Sound about right?
Let us know how the final product turns out.
I agree, my info isn't very useful without more precise measurements. Usually my 3 gallon batches without sparging are much more dialed in. Main takeaway is a 5ish gallon batch on the mini can work. Especially if you are willing to boost the gravity with a sugar or DME addition. I wouldn't attempt it with a high abv beer
I've read through this read and I am seriously considering a jump to eBIAB, specifically the unibrau mini. I've traditionally brew 2.5-3 gallon batches (extract) that fit well with my 2.5 gallon kegs. It allows me to brew more frequently with the increased turnover that a smaller batch provides. I've noticed that the design has changed and would like to get the current unibrau owners impressions based on the original system. Does anything stand out that might be a detriment instead of an improvement? Looks like it is an improved kettle, no longer uses bag and basket, pump connected directly to ball valve, temp probe placement, controller, etc.
https://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-mini-3-gallon-countertop-electric-120v-brew-sytem?variant=27766145872
Since this is a 25L system, how effective of a boil can I expect with a 1 x 1500w element?
Those who have swapped the grain bag/basket for the mesh basket does this help with the drain problems some of you mention?
I appreciate any feedback you can provide. I am making my final decisions soon.
https://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-mini-3-gallon-countertop-electric-120v-brew-sytem?variant=27766145872
Since this is a 25L system, how effective of a boil can I expect with a 1 x 1500w element?
Those who have swapped the grain bag/basket for the mesh basket does this help with the drain problems some of you mention?
I appreciate any feedback you can provide. I am making my final decisions soon.
I have the original version, and I really like all of the changes I see in the pictures at the website, especially moving the recirculation away from the lid and providing volume markings inside the pot.
If you do 2.5 to 3 gallon batches, then the single element is more than enough. Doug33 tried a five gallon batch above and I recently did one that was a little over four gallons. The element was able to bring it to a boil, but that was about it. I guess that is what a Hot Rod is for.
My not especially clear recollection is that mesh baskets in other systems get mixed reviews. You might want to do some more research on that front. I use a Wilser bag and a DIY false bottom (wide open mesh with nuts and bolts for legs) and drain problems have been non-existent so far. I wonder if the new location of the temp probe would create a snag problem if you ditched the mesh basket in favor of a bag and false bottom.
If you do 2.5 to 3 gallon batches, then the single element is more than enough. Doug33 tried a five gallon batch above and I recently did one that was a little over four gallons. The element was able to bring it to a boil, but that was about it. I guess that is what a Hot Rod is for.
My not especially clear recollection is that mesh baskets in other systems get mixed reviews. You might want to do some more research on that front. I use a Wilser bag and a DIY false bottom (wide open mesh with nuts and bolts for legs) and drain problems have been non-existent so far. I wonder if the new location of the temp probe would create a snag problem if you ditched the mesh basket in favor of a bag and false bottom.
calandryll
Well-Known Member
I just placed an order for the Unibrau this morning, non-mini size. I originally was going to purchase one in December but with the new upgrades I decided to hold off, as to me the upgrades seemed worth it. Definitely excited to see it and start brewing with it.
I would think the upgrade to the lid is nice, I don't like everything connected to it. Makes it difficult to take off and set aside. Also I have not experienced cavitation issues with the bag on 3 gallon batches. Only when I push the grain bill over 8 or 9 lbs do I have pump issues. Big beers don't work well with biab anyway your better off adding dme to raise gravity. Also the temp probe on the kettle would be an improvement. It would be nice to see temps without the pump on like when your bringing it to boil. I have the 2000w element and have no issues with the boil. Its not as vigorous as with a propane burner so I don't have near the boil off, but I haven't noticed any off flavors due to a weak boil.
Thanks for helping me get over the hump with this decision. I'll be placing the order for the mini this weekend. The next obstacle is convincing the wife that this was a need and not a want. I'll follow up once I'm up and running. Cheers!
Just curious if you received your unibrau? The majority of my unibrau mini setup was delivered but I don't know when the missing pieces needed to get it setup will arrive.
Anxiously waiting to be able to try it out.
calandryll
Well-Known Member
I received everything but the elements for my setup. Fortunately/unfortunately, I won't be brewing till the end of the month so I can wait on them. I had a conversation with Steven and he said he should be sending them out shortly. He also mentioned that the first batch seems to have some weakish welds on the basket and would be sending along a perforated plate to place on the bottom.
Right now I'm trying to get Beersmith setup with the new system so I can get up and running right away.
Right now I'm trying to get Beersmith setup with the new system so I can get up and running right away.
I received my 2000 watt heating element and clamp gaskets yesterday and was able to complete the assembly. I did have an issue with the o-ring supplied for the thermocouple. It was a little too large and unevenly compressed when tightening, leading to a leak. Picked up a smaller one at the local hardware store and the leak stopped. The maiden voyage is planned for tomorrow.
I also noticed that it is a very tight squeeze to insert and remove the stainless basket without hitting the barb fitting for the water return line. If the barb was 1/4" shorter this would be a non-issue. I'll let you know how the brew day goes tomorrow.
I also noticed that it is a very tight squeeze to insert and remove the stainless basket without hitting the barb fitting for the water return line. If the barb was 1/4" shorter this would be a non-issue. I'll let you know how the brew day goes tomorrow.
brausupply
Active Member
Hey guys! I just wanted to weigh in here.
The 1/4" silicone seal is meant to be just tight enough to hold the probe in place. Not so tight that it compresses, as you'll be removing it from time to time to clean the system. Also, regarding the barb installation, check out the assembly video. The barb for inside recirc is supposed to be unscrewed to remove the grain basket. It's a quick disconnect swivel fitting actually that has a silicone seal inside for easy connection/disconnection and so should not interfere with the removal of the grain basket.
The 1/4" silicone seal is meant to be just tight enough to hold the probe in place. Not so tight that it compresses, as you'll be removing it from time to time to clean the system. Also, regarding the barb installation, check out the assembly video. The barb for inside recirc is supposed to be unscrewed to remove the grain basket. It's a quick disconnect swivel fitting actually that has a silicone seal inside for easy connection/disconnection and so should not interfere with the removal of the grain basket.
Hey,
Thinking about getting the mini for an indoor lab/pilot system doing approx 2.5 gallon brews. After reading through this thread it seems like a good fit..short of a pump upgrade this should fit the bill. Anything I'm missing? Seems like there should be plenty of room for 2.5-3 gallon batches...definitely don't want to push it to its max based on some of the mash overflow comments.
Thinking about getting the mini for an indoor lab/pilot system doing approx 2.5 gallon brews. After reading through this thread it seems like a good fit..short of a pump upgrade this should fit the bill. Anything I'm missing? Seems like there should be plenty of room for 2.5-3 gallon batches...definitely don't want to push it to its max based on some of the mash overflow comments.
2.5 to 3 gallons is easy for the Mini. I recently got as high as 4.5 gallons, but I really had to do my math carefully to make sure everything was going to fit. You can go higher still, maybe five gallons, but by that point you are really asking for trouble.
I think I will to target 3.5 to 4 gallons in the near future.
I think I will to target 3.5 to 4 gallons in the near future.
sillybrewz
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I have been brewing on one of the older Brau Supply countertop systems (120v) for a while now. I recently upgraded my kettle from 6 gallons to 11 gallons to expand my capacity and I find I can comfortably do ~7 gallon batched with extra heating power supplemented by a Hot Rod heatstick. Overall I've been pretty happy with the experience, though I still find it a bit cumbersome to use in my cramped apartment space.
I've been really curious about the pro systems Brau Supply offers - namely the 45L 120V system, though I have yet to see a single primary review of this setup. Overall it seems like the experience would be very similar to the Brewha system (with a few small exceptions), and the small volume version looks better suited for true 5 gallon batches. Price is unfortunately the deciding factor in leaning toward the Brau Supply version, which is still considerably out of my price range, but I would consider liquidating a decent chunk of my other equipment to offset the cost if people have good things to say about it.
Any word yet on how Brau Supply BIACs perform?
I've been really curious about the pro systems Brau Supply offers - namely the 45L 120V system, though I have yet to see a single primary review of this setup. Overall it seems like the experience would be very similar to the Brewha system (with a few small exceptions), and the small volume version looks better suited for true 5 gallon batches. Price is unfortunately the deciding factor in leaning toward the Brau Supply version, which is still considerably out of my price range, but I would consider liquidating a decent chunk of my other equipment to offset the cost if people have good things to say about it.
Any word yet on how Brau Supply BIACs perform?
brausupply
Active Member
We are now using a new pump that has a steel body and is 120V. Pictures should be up soon.
bstway
Member
If you were exclusively brewing 2.5 gallon batches and wanted to go as KISS as possible, would you recommend this system or induction with a cooler? In the past six months I've converted my equipment to small batches but still use propane. I'm ready for the final switch to indoors but stuck between these two electrical options.
As kiss / inexpensive as possible, perhaps an electric turkey fryer....
Can be found inexpensive on craigslist, 1650 watts all manual control.
Certainly not best option, but for kicks w/ all these new countertop options I dug my old one out this weekend and brewed 5 gal in the basement.
Worked well for what it is!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1490055580.621854.jpg
Can be found inexpensive on craigslist, 1650 watts all manual control.
Certainly not best option, but for kicks w/ all these new countertop options I dug my old one out this weekend and brewed 5 gal in the basement.
Worked well for what it is!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1490055580.621854.jpg
OP
OP
I think KISS is going to mean different things for different folks. Me, I'd go with a Brau Supply system over a cooler and induction. I like the simplicity of heating up water and adding grain without the complication of figuring out additional heat loss in the cooler MT, possibly missing my temp and having to adjust. I also like having the alarms and appropriate amounts of automation in the Brau Supply controller. For me, those alarms, and other automagic things like adjusting output when nearing a boil and starting timers when temps are hit, help keep it simple.
For others, they don't want to attach hoses and clean a pump. But this isn't something I view as any trouble at all.
But I agree with @wilserbrewer, there are even more basic options than the two you listed. How about a 5 gallon kettle boiled on the stove top, and just slip it into a warm oven to hold mash temp? I've done lots of 6 gallon batches that way!
bstway
Member
Yeah my reference to KISS is based on my past five years of BP, cooler and propane. To me that is simple except for having get the propane. I also got tired of (for me that's not simple) five gallon batches. Thus, my 2.5 gallon routine has made brewing more enjoyable. I am used to being able to get my water temps up very quickly with propane and 4 + gallons. My hunch is a 3500w induction would be faster than a 1500w element set up. I'm not that concerned about a couple degree drop in mash temp but baby sitting the water while waiting to get to strike and boil temperatures is getting on my nerves (not simple). I also don't like cleaning equipment but at least the Brau Supply mini is small in scale.
OP
OP
I've been known to set my system up, dial in the strike temp, come back a few hours later (or overnight) and then start brewing. That's one of the beauties of having a system with a controller. And for me that's KISS.
Concerning cleaning, it takes minimal effort. Put some water in the kettle, turn on the pump and set the controller to 160F, dump in some PBW, walk away for a while (minutes or hours), dump the water and rinse. You might have to lightly rub some tough spots in the kettle where the hot break cooks on, and maybe the element, but that's it. Super duper simple.
bstway
Member
Looks as though the mini comes with either a 1500 watt or 2000 watt element. Usually, more is better but with my usual 4 + gallon full volume not sure. I can easily run a dedicated 20 amp GCFI protected circuit but would rather not. What do you think?
OP
OP
I've easily boiled 7 gallons with a single 1500 watt element. But a 2000 watt element will be a little faster.
Your kitchen and bathrooms should have 20 amp circuits. Run an extension cord if you need to.
Question for you brewers who use a Unibrau electric BIAB system, I have the new unibrau-mini and during my first brew day I was unsure of the best practice at transferring the cool wort to the fermentor. I opted to use sanitized tubing/racking cane vs draining from the ball valve because I wasn’t sure if I should recirculate the hot/boiling wort through the pump and tubing to sanitize prior to cool down. What do you recommend? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
OP
OP
Lots of us use pumps and plate chillers. The norm is to circulate boiling wort through them the last 10 minutes of the boil. Just make sure you don't throttle your pump suction while circulating boiling wort because you'll severely cavitate your pump.
I transfer from the ball valve. I try to use a cleaner and very hot water after I brew, but I often get lazy if the brewing day goes long.
Thanks, I'll have to order some additional tubing to go from the pump/ball valve to the fermentor and give it a try. Will stick with the auto siphon for this weekend's brew.
Looking forward to getting my first batch into the keg this weekend. It was my first batch with the new mini system and my first all-grain batch. Anxious to see how it tastes. Cheers!
Looking forward to getting my first batch into the keg this weekend. It was my first batch with the new mini system and my first all-grain batch. Anxious to see how it tastes. Cheers!
cservaes6
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I am considering purchasing this system and was hoping I could get some feedback from some of you who have had it.
1. Have any of you installed whirlpool functionality with this? I use a plate chiller, but want to be able to do loose hop additions but would need a whirlpool in order to do it. If anyone has installed anything, I'd be interested in pictures if you have them.
2. One of the things I really like about the Brew Boss system is that it has functionality to squeeze the grains. I know there is a lot of back and forth about whether or not this is a good thing/bad thing, but have any of you ever tried to figure out a way to adjust this system to accommodate for that functionality?
3. Do any of you have photos of your plate chiller setup? Most of the ones I've seen use gravity to flow from the kettle to the chiller to a carboy. I would love to see a setup that included pumps to pump through the chiller.
Thanks guys!
1. Have any of you installed whirlpool functionality with this? I use a plate chiller, but want to be able to do loose hop additions but would need a whirlpool in order to do it. If anyone has installed anything, I'd be interested in pictures if you have them.
2. One of the things I really like about the Brew Boss system is that it has functionality to squeeze the grains. I know there is a lot of back and forth about whether or not this is a good thing/bad thing, but have any of you ever tried to figure out a way to adjust this system to accommodate for that functionality?
3. Do any of you have photos of your plate chiller setup? Most of the ones I've seen use gravity to flow from the kettle to the chiller to a carboy. I would love to see a setup that included pumps to pump through the chiller.
Thanks guys!
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
I have a different system, but can answer:
1) order a SS tubing that has the bottom bent at a 90deg angle and the top set to hook to whatever your pump output goes to. Will cost 12 - 50 $ depending. hook your pump output to that, and clip it to the edge of the kettle. boom, you have a removable adjustable recirculation / whirlpool fitting
Alternate, punch a hole and put in a weldless whirlpool fitting, there are lots of different kinds out there.
2) You can twist and squeeze a good BIAB bag even better than the BB-COFI. I used to do that, but now have a SS mesh basket, and I just pull it up on a pulley, and while heating to boil, let the grain drain for a couple minutes, pour a little sparge water over it and let it drain few more. Hitting 85-75% for 1.04-1.07 batches
Some people use a round pizza pan or custom SS press plate to squeeze, but I haven't found it necessary.
3) here's an album of some of my brewing setup pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/Wfk4JvD2wohQADsv9
One pump, 2 ball valves, 1 3-way valve, counterflow chiller and recirculating mash.
I plan to add another T-valve between the chiller return and the whirlpool input, to for the option to run off directly from the chiller to a fermenter when desired, for increased chill efficiency -- chill the whole kettle down to ~110Fwhere the recirculating chill efficiency starts to really drop off, then divert the output to a fermenter and the output will be at pitching temperature.
No pics, but using the pump that came with the system worked fine for me. I brew in the kitchen and put the plate chiller in the kitchen sink with the kettle next to the sink. Leave the hose where it is. Take the hose that connects to the top of the kettle and connect it to the chiller input instead. Then take a slightly longer hose and run it from the chiller output to the top of the kettle input. I run a short hose from the kitchen faucet to the chiller and just let the cooling water run through and out into the sink.
I wound up trashing the pump and replaced it with a Chugger that has far more power than I could ever use in such a small system. I put a valve on the output side to restrict the flow from the pump.
OP
OP
I actually stopped using the hose and now use a mash cap with a locline manifold. When I was using the hose I would place it just below the wort surface, making sure it didn't erode a channel in the bed.
Which Locline do you use? The one with all of the drain holes, or the one that just drains at the end. I use the one with all of the holes, but I worry about getting them all under the water line. If I don't, it seems I add unnecessary oxygen to the process. I'm not trying to go full LODO, but it seems worth paying attention to this.
I use the ones with the holes. If you worry about O2, you can add a few solid ones to drop the others closer to the wort or even slightly under the top of the wort
OP
OP
I use the manifold with all the holes. By also using a floating mash cap I am guaranteeing mine are all under the surface of the wort.
Good point. Time for me to do just that!
OK, I've just added "mash cap" to my brewing vocabulary. What do you use for your cap?
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