Do you mean the false bottom? I'm fairly certain it is necessary to ensure that particles that escape the malt pipe do not clog the pump. At least the videos I saw all started with putting the false bottom in first. Though you do raise an interesting point!@amr
I watched the video again.
Is that bottom plate needed during the mash? Not having it there until boil might be the answer.
At what part of the process are you trying to clamp down the lid? I never once did it and it was totally fine. I think the clamps are primarily given to accommodate the boil extender attachment. In your normal brewday, just placing the lid on top is good enough, I think (on that note, the lid does fit very snug and so, that is good in itself).Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
The clamps are there only for using a metal lid for a still as far as I know. I have a 3.1.1 and I don't clamp my lid....Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
I was looking at it more for storage/transportation purposes. Meaning a way to hold the lid on when moving the unit around when empty. The pictures on morebeer show the clamps holding the glass lid down. Outside of that if it's just for the boil extender or other accessories I can definitely live with itAt what part of the process are you trying to clamp down the lid? I never once did it and it was totally fine. I think the clamps are primarily given to accommodate the boil extender attachment. In your normal brewday, just placing the lid on top is good enough, I think (on that note, the lid does fit very snug and so, that is good in itself).
It's not that. I just thought it could be used to hold the lid on when moving the whole unit. Would hate for the lid to fall off, and bust, when I'm moving the unit across the house and such. But it's just a minor complaint if that lol If anything it's just me as the consumer not understanding the product. Can't wait until the first brew day this weekend!I just use the handles on the side when empty.
More than rigid enough without the lid on. It won't deform.
You can just wrap your fingers around the side handles and your thumbs inside the handles and lift. Simple enough to transport that wayI was looking at it more for storage/transportation purposes. Meaning a way to hold the lid on when moving the unit around when empty. The pictures on morebeer show the clamps holding the glass lid down. Outside of that if it's just for the boil extender or other accessories I can definitely live with it
And that works too! Just tried it lol Ready for brew day already! Saturday can't get here soon enoughYou can just wrap your fingers around the side handles and your thumbs inside the handles and lift. Simple enough to transport that way
Did you by chance time the heating? How long from room temp water to strike and again how long from strike to boil?Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
It saved a graph that shows it took about 50 min to go from room temp to 150F. Then it took about 16 min to go from 150F to 170F. It took around 38 min to go from 170f to boiling. Hopefully that helps!Did you by chance time the heating? How long from room temp water to strike and again how long from strike to boil?
Did you use the neoprene jacket?It saved a graph that shows it took about 50 min to go from room temp to 150F. Then it took about 16 min to go from 150F to 170F. It took around 38 min to go from 170f to boiling. Hopefully that helps!
Thanks for the updates I am keen to hear about your brewday. I am trying to decide between the 220v brewzilla and the Grainfather S40.It saved a graph that shows it took about 50 min to go from room temp to 150F. Then it took about 16 min to go from 150F to 170F. It took around 38 min to go from 170f to boiling. Hopefully that helps!
Not yet. Morebeer shows out of stock for the Gen 4 model. That's definitely on the to do list as soon as they have it in stock!Did you use the neoprene jacket?
What gap do you use and what's the typical efficiency? I'm not really chasing efficiency per se. I'm looking more for repeatabilityI stir about 3 times but let everthing settle from about 40 minutes in.
Regarding crush why not try half the grain at your narrow gap and half at the .035 rather than a dramatic change.
Not sure a double crush will be needed.
Adjust your flow rate on the recirculation, I normally start off quite slow but by the end of the mash the tap is open fully and the grain bed is often only just saturated.
I mashed almost 14lbs of grain this past weekend. The malt pipe was pretty full as is. There's no way that would've been able to do a full volume mash. I also had quite a few issues, but, going to chalk that up to crushing the grain too fine. Mine didn't come with the diffuser bottom plate deal. It's just the plain jane plate with holes and feet. I don't think they're available yet. I'm still waiting on the neoprene insulated jacket kit to become available here in the states. From what I saw the Aussie kit insulates the Brewzilla unit and comes with an insulator for the sparge arm. Hoping we get the same here. If not then I'd just settle for the neoprene insulation and get something at the hardware store to insulate the recirculation pipe.Ok, I am this close (thumb and pointer finger about 2 inches apart) to taking the plunge and buying the Brewzilla Gen 4 35L 110V. But before I do, I have a couple questions.
1) I currently do BIAB no sparge and would like to continue doing full volume mash / no sparge. Although the 35L version looks plenty big enough for normal brews, it does not appear to be big enough for a full volume mash for really big beers, so I was thinking of adding on one of the boiler extension kits. Do any of you currently use a boiler extension for the purpose of full volume mashing and does it work ok for that purpose?
2) Assuming I do use an extension, is it required that you also get one of the longer malt pipes or will the original (shorter) malt pipe work ok with the boiler extension?
3) I saw a video on Kegland where Kee talked about a change in the false bottom for the Gen 4 that has a redirection plate attached to the underside that directs the wort toward the sides instead of it going straight down to the drain hole. Does anyone have one of these updated false bottoms or are they not yet available?
Thanks...
Thanks. I received an update from morebeer today that said they expect the neoprene jackets to arrive Nov 11.I mashed almost 14lbs of grain this past weekend. The malt pipe was pretty full as is. There's no way that would've been able to do a full volume mash. I also had quite a few issues, but, going to chalk that up to crushing the grain too fine. Mine didn't come with the diffuser bottom plate deal. It's just the plain jane plate with holes and feet. I don't think they're available yet. I'm still waiting on the neoprene insulated jacket kit to become available here in the states. From what I saw the Aussie kit insulates the Brewzilla unit and comes with an insulator for the sparge arm. Hoping we get the same here. If not then I'd just settle for the neoprene insulation and get something at the hardware store to insulate the recirculation pipe.
How many gallons of water did you have with that mash of 14 lbs of grain and how much did you add during sparge?I mashed almost 14lbs of grain this past weekend. The malt pipe was pretty full as is. There's no way that would've been able to do a full volume mash. I also had quite a few issues, but, going to chalk that up to crushing the grain too fine. Mine didn't come with the diffuser bottom plate deal. It's just the plain jane plate with holes and feet. I don't think they're available yet. I'm still waiting on the neoprene insulated jacket kit to become available here in the states. From what I saw the Aussie kit insulates the Brewzilla unit and comes with an insulator for the sparge arm. Hoping we get the same here. If not then I'd just settle for the neoprene insulation and get something at the hardware store to insulate the recirculation pipe.
How many gallons of water did you have with that mash of 14 lbs of grain and how much did you add during sparge?
Using an online BIAB calculator, it looks like a full volume mash of 14 lbs of grain for a 5.5 gallon batch would equate to a total mash volume of around 9.5 to 9.75 gallons (depending on evaportaion / absorption rates). Based on that it seems to me that the addition 3.1 gallons of space the boiler extension provides (total 12.3 gallons of space) would be plenty enough to do a full volume mash of 14 lbs, possibly enough space to full-volume mash up to around 22-23 lbs. Would you concur?
I don't have that but for that same systemAnyone have a good beersmith equipment profile for the brewzilla gen 4 35L 110v system?
Is this with the redesigned false bottom?Have done two batches on the 35L gen 4 (10L batches) with the neoprene jacket on and the recirc arm on. Seeing wild changes in temperature - overshooting - both when using PID and otherwise. Has anyone had better luck with it? If yes, request PID settings please.
Thank you.
I checked with both morebeer and kegland and what I am hearing from both is the updated false bottom (or rather the redirection/disperse plate that attaches to the bottom of the existing false bottom) is not yet available. If you know otherwise, let me knowIs this with the redesigned false bottom?
One thing I like about my Anvil 10.5 is the temps are within 1C (maybe 2) with recirc.
Don't have mine yet, late November maybe, but Kegland had a YouTube video about adding settings for the PID. It seemed pretty informativeHave done two batches on the 35L gen 4 (10L batches) with the neoprene jacket on and the recirc arm on. Seeing wild changes in temperature - overshooting - both when using PID and otherwise. Has anyone had better luck with it? If yes, request PID settings please.
Thank you.
Tried those settings. In fact, David Heath has a video as well. Unfortunately none of them worked. I think that once it reaches close to mash temp, the simplest way is to reduce the heating element power. That is something I am going to try next.Don't have mine yet, late November maybe, but Kegland had a YouTube video about adding settings for the PID. It seemed pretty informative
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