Build Your Own Heat Element Kit

[Liveforliving]

Looking on a few websites
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/complete-weldless-heating-element.html
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits

It doesn't appear that this is a complex build and requires basic tools (drill press, cordless drill, screw driver, etc). These websites look like they buy the parts, spend a few minutes putting it together, and sell it at a premium.

I'm sure this has been asked somewhere (feel free to bump me to the right thread, but I couldn't find it), but does anyone have a diy (parts and instructions) for making your own 5500w HLT?

 

[theck]

I would (and currently am) go this route:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4wf.htm

You will have the ability to remove the element to clean, replace, etc... plus I have a cap for mine if I ever use it on the propane. you will need a controller though, which is what the most expensive part is.

 

[rudylyon57]

I would (and currently am) go this route:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4wf.htm

Purchased a few of these two months ago. I was impressed by the quality of design and manufacture. Struggling with finding a fair price to TIG weld to kettle so I may go the solder route.

 

[ImNoExpert]

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

 

[thekraken]

I'm sure this has been asked somewhere (feel free to bump me to the right thread, but I couldn't find it), but does anyone have a diy (parts and instructions) for making your own 5500w HLT?

Isn't this what your looking for? http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

 

[theck]

Purchased a few of these two months ago. I was impressed by the quality of design and manufacture. Struggling with finding a fair price to TIG weld to kettle so I may go the solder route.

Soldering is super easy I'd just do that myself, tig prices are $99 per and who knows if they will do it correctly.

 

[penner]

Just ordered a couple of theelectricbrewery.com diy element kits. takes 1-2 weeks so still waiting on em.

 

[Liveforliving]

Isn't this what your looking for? http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements

No, as I said, my problem with that kit is that it looks too easy to make myself. But I'd need some basic parts list and instruction. The brewhardware.com appears to be the closest diy product (thanks theck for sharing).

Also, I hear theelectricbrewery heat element will rust at the base. That doesn't sound pleasant...

 

[thekraken]

It looks too easy? Maybe I'm not understanding you? That link is to the chapter in his book on making the element enclosure, if you go to the following pages he has parts list, tools lists (and where to buy), and step by step build instructions.

For the record, I too chose to just buy the hot pod rather than DIY something here. It's worked just fine.

 

[Liveforliving]

My bad, thekraken, I skimmed the link and noted they tried to bring you to the prebuilt ones they sell. I didn't realize they gave a parts list and instructions as well. Thanks for pointing that out. That's perfect.

 

[jsprinceiii]

Also, I hear theelectricbrewery heat element will rust at the base. That doesn't sound pleasant...

Not 100% true. This entirely depends on the element used.
Cleanup and removal of water after helps prevent rusting.

 

[moabbiker]

Looking on a few websites

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/complete-weldless-heating-element.html

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits



It doesn't appear that this is a complex build and requires basic tools (drill press, cordless drill, screw driver, etc). These websites look like they buy the parts, spend a few minutes putting it together, and sell it at a premium.



I'm sure this has been asked somewhere (feel free to bump me to the right thread, but I couldn't find it), but does anyone have a diy (parts and instructions) for making your own 5500w HLT?

I went the soldering route. Punched a hole, and soldered a radiused triclamp fitting from Brew Hardware. That was plenty solid, built for even greater strength i had a local stainless steel welding shop add a triclamp fitting in the next pot. For a housing, i used a Brew Hardware RIMS housing, which worked well, but for a totally bulletproof housing, $60 got me this https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html. A triclamp is much easier to remove for cleaning, and judging from the trub and gunk i get out after each boil, removing it is critical. The 240 cord and plug i got from Lowe's. Brew Hardware and several other places have all-stainless elements, but i after the initial coating of rust, i have seen no further rusting as long as i remove, clean and dry every time. I think Bobby has stainless elements at Brew Hardware if you don't like the look of a rusted base.

 

[bbohanon]

No, as I said, my problem with that kit is that it looks too easy to make myself. But I'd need some basic parts list and instruction. The brewhardware.com appears to be the closest diy product (thanks theck for sharing).

Also, I hear theelectricbrewery heat element will rust at the base. That doesn't sound pleasant...

If you keep the element base clean and dry, it will not rust as quickly. Bobby at brewhardware has some all SS elements as well. Will switch mine out to those once my initial ones become too much of a problem with this but so far, keeping the base clean and dry has kept mine rust free.
Bill

 

[isl247]

I would (and currently am) go this route:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4wf.htm

You will have the ability to remove the element to clean, replace, etc... plus I have a cap for mine if I ever use it on the propane. you will need a controller though, which is what the most expensive part is.

I went with the radiused flange for soldering.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm
Love it! These things really are beautiful.

I don't have 240V handy so I installed 2 of these with 2000W elements. That boils 11 gallons, no problem.

 

[theck]

I went with the radiused flange for soldering.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm
Love it! These things really are beautiful.

I don't have 240V handy so I installed 2 of these with 2000W elements. That boils 11 gallons, no problem.

Oh duh sorry that's the one I meant.

 

[MX1]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/show-us-your-element-housings-pots-how-did-you-do-212079/

try here

 

[Ridemywideglide]

I would (and currently am) go this route:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4wf.htm

You will have the ability to remove the element to clean, replace, etc... plus I have a cap for mine if I ever use it on the propane. you will need a controller though, which is what the most expensive part is.

Hate to dig up a zombie thread, but I'm looking at this piece as well. I have a ripple 1" thread 5500w element. Does this TC enclosure have threads that the element threads into? I would like to assume yes, but ya know..

Thanks

 

[isl247]

Yes. It uses a TC flange. One side of the flange is threaded to accept the element and has a cover to seal up the wiring. Then other side of the flange simply gets welded or soldered (I think brewhardware even offers a weldless bulkhead design now) directly to the kettle. When you're ready to brew, you just slide the element into the kettle, clamp the flange with the gasket in the middle, and you're good to go.

This video gets into the TC flange/Hot Pod around 7 min.
https://youtu.be/5QjkXWE1QI8?t=7m5s

 

[augiedoggy]

Hate to dig up a zombie thread, but I'm looking at this piece as well. I have a ripple 1" thread 5500w element. Does this TC enclosure have threads that the element threads into? I would like to assume yes, but ya know..

Thanks

yes It does have a threaded TC adapter the element will thread into.. its a good kit I used it myself for my HLT minus the tc adapter.

There are now a number of other options thought like the elements with the 30p twist lock connectors built into them and the ones with the enclosures built into them like this which will be an inch or two shorter. (keep in mind the link below is for the 2" tc based model but they make them in 1.5" too.) and you still need a welded or weldless ferrule on the kettle.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heati...119729?hash=item4b0dbe41f1:g:RFUAAOSwnHZYSMvq this is especially a good choice if your current element isnt a special stainless based element unlike all the water heater models sold in stores which have zinc coated steel bases that will rust and depending on the hardness of your water that can happen quickly especially when threaded into a dissimilar metal like stainless.