Cheapest path to electric

[doublehaul]

I have a 3 vessel propane system using sanke kegs so I brew 10 (11.5) gallon batches - batch sparge. I live in Montana, so winters kind of suck to brew. I was considering picking up a grainfather or something so I could continue to brew 5 gallon batches in the winter but have read mixed reviews.

My dream would be the new SS Brewtech electric system but the price is out of question.

Is there any plug and play solution that could get me into electric brewing without taking a second mortgage on my house?

The ultimate would be something that would work with my existing system, but I'd also consider a new system to get me through the winter. I have no interest in attempting to build a controller on my own. Thanks all.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Adding elements to your existing HLT and BK is pretty easy:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/elementkit_tcrip_wl.htm

After that the most economical approach would be to build your own controller but if you prefer to buy a pre built then you have a few budget options.

Basic power control is the cheapest

https://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Brewery-Controller-Electric-Kettle-272p3084.htm

 

[AnOldUR]

Induction BIAB

 

[tofuguy]

Start with a simple boil kettle conversion from propane to electric. There you just need a simple controller to maintain boil. After that you can build up into two different paths, eBIAB or eHERMS depending on your end game (since you are already 3V, may stick with that). I personally went eBIAB since I have to carry my equipment from the basement to the garage for brew days.

 

[mongoose33]

The main issue is getting 240v electric to your place of brewing. If you have that or can get it, then the next is the controller.

I bought this for about $390 and built it myself:

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_65&products_id=794

THat's the assembled version. There's a kit you can build, couple of hundred less.

If that's a dealbreaker, the cheapest one you can get is here:

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-large-controller.html

I haven't built one, someone else on HBT recently did, it appears to work and at that price, you can bide your time until you get something better.

It's not cheap to go to electric, but it sure is nice.

 

[doublehaul]

Wow guys this has me pretty excited. I think I could get by with just converting my boil kettle to electric. I could use the boil kettle as my HLT, and then just collect my 1st and 2nd runnings wort in my existing HLT, and then pump it all over to the BK for the boil when done. I'll have to get a quote from an electrician - on a 30 amp GFCI outlet right?

 

[mongoose33]

Wow guys this has me pretty excited. I think I could get by with just converting my boil kettle to electric. I could use the boil kettle as my HLT, and then just collect my 1st and 2nd runnings wort in my existing HLT, and then pump it all over to the BK for the boil when done. I'll have to get a quote from an electrician - on a 30 amp GFCI outlet right?

To do a 5500 watt element, yes.

But don't be shortsighted with this. Why not add a 20-amp circuit so you can run additional items? My own panel, run off a 30-amp GFCI circuit, will do pumps as well as the element in the BK.

All I'm saying is if you're going to have an electrician there, do your best to think ahead.

I had the electrician set up a system that moves 60-amps to my garage, and we installed a sub panel that has a 30-amp GFCI, and two 20-amp circuits.

 

[spittybug]

P=VA So if you use a 5500W element at 220v, you need minimum of 25 amp service. It shouldn't cost much more to run 50 or 60 service depending on how long your run. Plan ahead. In the future you may want to have a HLT cooking up while the boil kettle is boiling.......

 

[supermallard]

I'm not sure if these would actually work with kegs but I have used them to boost my 110 volt system.

I have two of these under my stainless steel mega pots. I did have to build kind of a custom stand out of scrap wood for the mash tun so as not to have all of the weight on the induction burner.

just beware that they tend to emit kind of a high-pitched sound when they're running. I'm usually blasting music and a loud fan so I don't really notice it.

Also recommend using these with a GFCI.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMCAM2G/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Edit: I should add that these would only work as a booster after you added elements as suggested by BeardedBrews. And they'd be separate from any controller.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Since you asked cheapest, I will throw out 2 elements running on 2, 110v GFI outlets.

2000w elements require 20 amp circuit, 1500w element can run on 15 amp.

Ghetto yes, cheap yes, certainly not best but still better than a propane burner imo.

Add a BIAB bag and go single vessel.

An option that would work with your existing system would be the Hot Rod heatstick at brewhardware.com

You can move it between vessels in your 3v system.
Can even use it to stir a mash to raise temp as needed.
Slick product imo

 

[KortzBrewhouse]

I just picked up a Clawhammer supply system it’s comes w everything needed I opted for the 240 version to cut down on my brewday but it wasn’t cheap they have a 110 version but you may need some insulation to keep temps warm in your area.

 

[ba-brewer]

I went with a couple hot rods from brewhardware and manually controlled power or used a router speed controller at first.

 

[doug293cz]

P=VA So if you use a 5500W element at 220v, you need minimum of 25 amp service. It shouldn't cost much more to run 50 or 60 service depending on how long your run. Plan ahead. In the future you may want to have a HLT cooking up while the boil kettle is boiling.......

These elements are rated at 240V, not 220. So at 240V, the current is 5500 / 240 = 22.9A. If your voltage is less than 240V, then you will get less than 5500W, since the resistance of the element is essentially constant. Since V = I * R => R = V / I, the resistance of the 5500W element is 240 / 22.9 = 10.47 ohms. V = I * R also => I = V / R, so at 220V, current draw of a 10.47 ohm resistor is 220 / 10.47 = 21A.

A two amp difference in max current draw for the element may seem trivial, but it is enough to run Chugger type pump.

Brew on

 

[augiedoggy]

If no one have suggested it yet, stilldragon.com has a simple potentiometer knob controlled heat controller kit for a 4500w or 5500w element. (its like $45) you can pair it with everything to make a single kettle electric or use a hot rod and have a setup for about $100.

I use a 30a 240 service like many people with a dryer outlet already have in thier house. I use a 5500w element in my BK but a 4500w element in my BK which allows me to also run an 1800w rims at the same time as my sparge water heats up in my hlt. I also use $20 DC pumps which use very little power. My system started out on a small budget also.

the cost difference between a 30a and 50a line would have been pretty large for me because of the length of wire in my house and it also would have been a LOT more work for me as 10/3 romex is much cheaper and easier to run and fish up walls than individual 6awg wires. if my brew system was near the panel in a basement the situation would be different.

 

[augiedoggy]

I went with a couple hot rods from brewhardware and manually controlled power or used a router speed controller at first.

was the router controller for 240v or 120v elements? ive read they are not built or rated for the amount of amps many use them for. Not sure how true that is.

 

[ba-brewer]

was the router controller for 240v or 120v elements? ive read they are not built or rated for the amount of amps many use them for. Not sure how true that is.

It was a harbor freight 120V router speed controller with a 1500W element, says good to 15A.
https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

I had two 120V outlets on two circuits close together so it was cheaper than going 220V.

I have since built a 2 input 120V controller with an EZboil but I still use the 2 hot rods in a 3 vessel system approach by moving the elements around. I have thought about building a permanent setup but the hot rod solution is pretty flexible and I can always fall back to propane if needed.

 

[applescrap]

I have a 3 vessel propane system using sanke kegs so I brew 10 (11.5) gallon batches - batch sparge. I live in Montana, so winters kind of suck to brew. I was considering picking up a grainfather or something so I could continue to brew 5 gallon batches in the winter but have read mixed reviews.

My dream would be the new SS Brewtech electric system but the price is out of question.

Is there any plug and play solution that could get me into electric brewing without taking a second mortgage on my house?

The ultimate would be something that would work with my existing system, but I'd also consider a new system to get me through the winter. I have no interest in attempting to build a controller on my own. Thanks all.

Pretty sure my method fits that. 500 or so out the door for all parts included. 240v, 5500 w element etc...seek the audiedoggie for a 100 dollar or less method. And he is right as well. All the parts are chinese so to speak so get some good ones from china and make a box for nada. Then get the wires and cords, etc..and you are off and rolling. It will require you to make the box. I wanted the same so i got a 275 dollar box and 130 for ss heat stick. And a gfci and cords. It can be done.

 

[applescrap]

Since you asked cheapest, I will throw out 2 elements running on 2, 110v GFI outlets.

2000w elements require 20 amp circuit, 1500w element can run on 15 amp.

Ghetto yes, cheap yes, certainly not best but still better than a propane burner imo.

Add a BIAB bag and go single vessel.

An option that would work with your existing system would be the Hot Rod heatstick at brewhardware.com

You can move it between vessels in your 3v system.
Can even use it to stir a mash to raise temp as needed.
Slick product imo

I like this, bet only one is needed for boil. You dont need box because you want them running full blast, just fyi. No pid required

Oops, sry, see augie has already chimed in.

 

[EDF713]

All right, so I'm interested in doing this, and cheaply. What about rigging up two of these (or something like them) from separate GFCI outlets on separate breakers? Other than that and keeping the plastic parts out of the water or wort, any issues? I suppose you could use a router controller to manage boil vigor through one of them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772FSDS5/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[TechFanMD]

All right, so I'm interested in doing this, and cheaply. What about rigging up two of these (or something like them) from separate GFCI outlets on separate breakers? Other than that and keeping the plastic parts out of the water or wort, any issues? I suppose you could use a router controller to manage boil vigor through one of them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772FSDS5/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

A few issues. First, that's only 2 wire (no chassis ground). It will still trip a GFI but you don't have the safety of proper grounding like you have on a bucket heater or heat stick. Two, with the heater part being so short, you're trying to heat water from the top down, and I don't think you'll ever get a good boil throughout the wort that way. Having the heat element at the bottom creates mixing since heat rises.

 

[EDF713]

A few issues. First, that's only 2 wire (no chassis ground). It will still trip a GFI but you don't have the safety of proper grounding like you have on a bucket heater or heat stick. Two, with the heater part being so short, you're trying to heat water from the top down, and I don't think you'll ever get a good boil throughout the wort that way. Having the heat element at the bottom creates mixing since heat rises.

Thanks, sounded too good to be true. I thought of the bucket heaters, it looks like they have 1500w now, but the one I saw on Amazon has a shutoff to prevent boiling. That and they won't be on the bottom.

 

[TechFanMD]

Thanks, sounded too good to be true. I thought of the bucket heaters, it looks like they have 1500w now, but the one I saw on Amazon has a shutoff to prevent boiling. That and they won't be on the bottom.

I use a 1000W bucket heater from Amazon to heat my strike water while I'm at work or sleeping (on a timer). I saw the "1500 watt" ones the have now and they look identical to what I have....I am suspect that they are actually 1500W.

 

[brumateur1]

I'm just wondering if anybody tried stove like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ele...duction-household-cooktop-EU/32868305518.html

 

[TechFanMD]

I'm just wondering if anybody uses stove like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ele...duction-household-cooktop-EU/32868305518.html

I looked into ones like this and unless you're going to spend a lot, the 'burner' area is really small. You also have to have induction ready pots, and even by good All Clad pot wasn't induction ready so it meant I'd be replacing brew kettles too. The one you reference is 220V. I guess its OK if you already have an induction ready brew kettle and 220V where you want to brew.

 

[supermallard]

I'm just wondering if anybody tried stove like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ele...duction-household-cooktop-EU/32868305518.html

See my earlier post in this thread. I use them along with elements for my 10 gal all grain rig.

 

[lump42]

Since you asked cheapest, I will throw out 2 elements running on 2, 110v GFI outlets.

2000w elements require 20 amp circuit, 1500w element can run on 15 amp.

Ghetto yes, cheap yes, certainly not best but still better than a propane burner imo.

Add a BIAB bag and go single vessel.

An option that would work with your existing system would be the Hot Rod heatstick at brewhardware.com

You can move it between vessels in your 3v system.
Can even use it to stir a mash to raise temp as needed.
Slick product imo

To go cheapest, one should be able to get by with one element. If the all-in-one units can make it work there's no reason the it shouldn't work in a kettle conversion. It just might take some time to get to temps and boil.

 

[ba-brewer]

To go cheapest, one should be able to get by with one element. If the all-in-one units can make it work there's no reason the it shouldn't work in a kettle conversion. It just might take some time to get to temps and boil.

The all in ones seem to be narrower than the standard kettle that have the magic 1.2 height to width ratio, narrower helps with mixing.

 

[brumateur1]

See my earlier post in this thread. I use them along with elements for my 10 gal all grain rig.

Ar you sure that we are talking about similar models? As per your earlier post you have 110v and induction cooker. This one is 220V 2200 Watts and infrared.So you can use with any vessel.

 

[augiedoggy]

Ar you sure that we are talking about similar models? As per your earlier post you have 110v and induction cooker. This one is 220V 2200 Watts and infrared.So you can use with any vessel.

any induction ready or non 304 /316 grade stainless kettle... I know the cheap bayou classic kettles work even if non clad because they are not made of the the 304 grade stainless that they are falsely advertised as.
that top should work for 5 gallons. the larger 3500w one is what many use with 10 gallon setups.

 

[lump42]

The all in ones seem to be narrower than the standard kettle that have the magic 1.2 height to width ratio, narrower helps with mixing.

Understand what your saying about narrow kettles, but the grainfather and robobrew have a "magic" 1.4 h:d ratio, and the mash and boil is at a "magic" 0.8 ratio. Someone trying to go as cheap as possible could take a "magic" spoon and stir it the kettle to keep it mixing. The issue I have with this "magic" ratio is that unless one fills their kettle to the brim each time the liquid inside is not at the magic ratio and not going to receive the magic from the ratio. The only places I've ever seen the 1.2 ratio pushed is on retailer's sites.

 

[supermallard]

Ar you sure that we are talking about similar models? As per your earlier post you have 110v and induction cooker. This one is 220V 2200 Watts and infrared.So you can use with any vessel.

Would appear we aren't talking about similar models, my bad. Looking at the 220, that looks nice.

 

[applescrap]

Use that bucket heater, with the stove and you will be quick. Yes, many have swore good results with the induction burners. They have 220 and 110 versions. The one it seems everyone gets round here is about 200 iirc. You can also wrap your kettle and that helps supposedly. That bucket heater and a 110 induction heater sounds like a combo. Idk, maybe someone else knows better. Gfci throughout, obviously.

 

[wilserbrewer]

To go cheapest, one should be able to get by with one element. If the all-in-one units can make it work there's no reason the it shouldn't work in a kettle conversion. It just might take some time to get to temps and boil.

Yes agreed, one could “get by” with one element in a small kettle, certainly not a keggle as the OP suggested.

As a reference, I did 6 gallon batch in my BC 44qt yesterday. 2 elements at 2000w are quick to heat, and produce a vigorous boil, perhaps a little too much....one element with the lid 1/2 on boils gently.

Another very cheap path to indoor electric is an electric turkey fryer, the “Turk and surf” by masterbuilt has 1650w and will boil gently w the lid 1/2 on, and can be found on Craigslist very cheap sometimes. A used one will require a deep cleaning. Minimal watt brewing will take some time, and will seem like forever if your in a hurry.

 

[augiedoggy]

Understand what your saying about narrow kettles, but the grainfather and robobrew have a "magic" 1.4 h:d ratio, and the mash and boil is at a "magic" 0.8 ratio. Someone trying to go as cheap as possible could take a "magic" spoon and stir it the kettle to keep it mixing. The issue I have with this "magic" ratio is that unless one fills their kettle to the brim each time the liquid inside is not at the magic ratio and not going to receive the magic from the ratio. The only places I've ever seen the 1.2 ratio pushed is on retailer's sites.

All this means is its tall and narrow and tall narrow kettles show more movement and activity at a boil with less power since a much larger percentage of the liquid is directly above the element(more wort directly in heat and bubbles path up) tall narrow kettles are more efficient in other ways such as less boiloff and the ability to brew less while still covering the element. I agree its been oversimplified into market speak with magic ratios and such. a lot of cheaper kettles are as wide or wider than they are tall.. this is not ideal for reasons above.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I believe taller narrower kettles boil with less energy because the heat loss at the top open surface is less due to the smaller top area of exposed wort.

Top surface area of wort increases as a function of diameter squared. It’s substantial and I believe the greatest source of heat loss.

 

[lump42]

Yes agreed, one could “get by” with one element in a small kettle, certainly not a keggle as the OP suggested.

I wouldn't do it, but for 5 gal batch in a keggle, one element would be the cheapest route. Not "ideal" by most standards.

 

[lump42]

All this means is its tall and narrow and tall narrow kettles show more movement and activity at a boil with less power since a much larger percentage of the liquid is directly above the element(more wort directly in heat and bubbles path up) tall narrow kettles are more efficient in other ways such as less boiloff and the ability to brew less while still covering the element. I agree its been oversimplified into market speak with magic ratios and such. a lot of cheaper kettles are as wide or wider than they are tall.. this is not ideal for reasons above.

I understand the basics in electric, but it's been turned into a marketing term that eats at me, since they never explain more than "ideal"ratio. I also have issues when the magic ratio is said to be better in all situation. For electric brewing it makes sense, but on a gas burner it doesn't. A wide pot has more surface area to absorb heat from the burner. Is this not right?

I believe taller narrower kettles boil with less energy because the heat loss at the top open surface is less due to the smaller top area of exposed wort.

Top surface area of wort increases as a function of diameter squared. It’s substantial and I believe the greatest source of heat loss.

Would a lid negate quite a bit of this? Not trying to be a snarky, just trying to understand.

 

[Coastalbrew]

I am interested in doing a similar set up. Have been doing some research and here is what I am thinking...I have a 44Qt Stainless BK with a 15" diameter and 14" height. If I went with the Blichmann 10G boil coil (120V) and the stildragon controller, would I need anything else for a single vessel eBIAB setup? I do have a spare 30A/240 outlet on my patio if needed.

Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[wilserbrewer]

The 10g boil coil is 2250w, so that should produce an acceptable mild boil. With only 2250w I don't foresee much need to turn the power down, so rather than the controller, a simple 20a switch would work....others may disagree.

I need to keep the lid on 2/3 to get a decent mild boil in my 44qt kettle w/ 2000w.

Just thinking you will yearn for more power, certainly not less lol

 

[wilserbrewer]

The 10g boil coil is 2250w, so that should produce an acceptable mild boil. With only 2250w I don't foresee much need to turn the power down, so rather than the controller, a simple 20a switch would work....others may disagree.

I need to keep the lid on 2/3 to get a decent mild boil in my 44qt kettle w/ 2000w.

Just thinking you will yearn for more power, certainly not less lol

Or of course, more involved and faster better would be 240v w auto temp control pump etc, but that’s different, up to you.

FWIW boil coil more $$$ than other elements but it’s your money