Cooler RIM system heat loss

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I recently converted a Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler with a false bottom to a wannabe RIM system. I attached QD fittings to the drain valve and the center of the lid. I also fitted the tip from an old sparge arm to the inside of the lid. I thought I finally got all the design bugs worked out and brewed with it yesterday. Everything worked great except the temperature. The Chugger pump gave me a nice even flow at a slow rate and the wort was crystal clear. But here's the rub. I lost almost 12 degrees on my mash temp during the 60 sach rest. FREAKIN ARGH ! ! ! ! ! My gravity was way low compared to what it should have been. With a 12lb grain bill, Beersmith calculated (at 75% efficency) I should have had an OG around 1.062. Instead my OF was at 1.052. With the exception of 8oz of Black Malt, everything else in that grain bill would provide gravity points. I'm sure that my problem is directly related to the 12 degrees I lost during the recirculation.

I have a few ideas on how to correct that, but it's going to get a little pricey. So I thought I would ask you guys if any of you have encountered this and how you corrected it.

Thanks all !!!

P.S. - This is my first attempt at building a DIY RIM for my Homebrew Supply Store. I've seen other factory RIM and HERMs systems and was trying to keep this as simple as possible.


tip.jpg
 
You don't mention anything about how you are controlling the heat in the rims system. You do have a heating element in there don't you? If not you are only recirculating and that will cause drastic heat loss. It would be better to not use it that way.
 
That is just recirculating. A RIM has a tube with a heating element, temperature sensor and a temperature controller. You will be better off shelving that until you get the rest of the equipment for a RIMS. The recirculating is going to cause a temperature drop for sure.
 
You don't mention anything about how you are controlling the heat in the rims system. You do have a heating element in there don't you? If not you are only recirculating and that will cause drastic heat loss. It would be better to not use it that way.
I do not have any heating elements in the system as is. I was really hoping that once the lid on the cooler was sealed, with it being more or less a closed system at that point, that my heat loss would be minimal. Yup, I WAS WAAAAAAAAAY WRONG ! ! ! !

Basically I'm looking for the easiest way to add a heating element or at least minimize the heat loss.
 
Your biggest heat loss will be in the tubing. Reduce the lengths down as short as you can and that should help some.

But, as kh54s10, your best best is to add some sort of heating element.
 
Slightly off-topic, but I've just about retired my cooler mash tun in favor of strait no-sparge BIAB. Lost ~3% efficiency and shortened/simplified my brew day considerably. YMMV.
 
As I suspected, you guys were all right. I just wanted to see if someone out there had a different solution. So I guess, until I get the heating element and a more stable frame to mount everything to, I'll just use the pump for recirculating during the vourloff. Thanks all for the time and comments.
 
You could pump thru a coil placed in a HLT (aka make a HERMS). If you already have an immersion chiller and a BK on a heat source this could be fairly cheap to cobble together.

Edit: I recommend you ensure your return line is below the mash waterline to reduce oxygen pickup. A simple length of hose under the lid will do this.
 
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You could pump thru a coil placed in a HLT (aka make a HERMS). If you already have an immersion chiller and a BK on a heat source this could be fairly cheap to cobble together.

I did this a few years ago for a couple of brews with my IC. Actually works pretty well, just takes some baby sitting unless you have a controller. So it's do-able if you have an IC...
 
I did something similar when I was batch sparging. This Mini E-Herms served me well and kept mash temps pretty damn consistent and I got great efficiency and it was cheap. Just a 10' piece of 1/2 copper pipe, some tubing, STC 1000 and a hot plate. (Don't mind the keggle.)

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