Yeah, wouldn't you think she'd see the obvious benefits?However it means the kitchen is no longer spotlessly clean every three weeks.
Yeah, wouldn't you think she'd see the obvious benefits?However it means the kitchen is no longer spotlessly clean every three weeks.
It doesn't taste 'bad' per se, but it's lost all the detail and nuance...the oat contribution is completely absent. It taste a lot like a Coopers pre-hopped, partial-boil stout stout made with plain local tapwater. The freshness and complexity of fresh grains and hops is just gone or drowned out by what distinctly tastes like it's been diluted about 20% with my tapwater.That sucks. How does it taste?![]()
https://www.supplyhouse.com/CD-Valv...hopping_tm&utm_campaign=Shopping_TM_New_usersSomeone should make a beer QD without any output or poppet that one could snap on a beer post to seal it tight.
There was a recent thread regarding removing lines from kegs in kegerators when the owner was going to be on vacation. My take was it was probably the worst way to go as it exposes all the poppets to potential leaks, and it would be better to leave everything connected - as I always do. Much less likely to have a puddle with an attached beer QD, but for those then paranoid about faucets suddenly leaking while nobody is home, having a special beer QD to pop on when desired might be salve for their sensibilities
Cheers!
Plus it was a good excuse to buy a grandfather.
cut off the tip of the internal plunger so it can't press down on the poppet.
agreed.I get using a standard MFL QD with a flare cap, but they get filled with beer I presume. I was thinking of a dedicated product that wouldn't have that problem...
Cheers!
Whoops missed this until now. According to Chris White, zinc added to the boil doesn’t really make it to the fermenter due to chelation. Unless you’re boiling in a Pyrex kettle that is.15 minutes before end of boil. Sometimes 10 if I forget.
I don't have a conical, so I haven't done that. If I had one, I'm sure I would have. Sorry for your loss.You can probably guess where this is going. If you remove the TC clamp above the sight glass instead of the one below the butterfly valve, there is no longer a valved shut-off to the tank.
DON'T DO THAT!!!
So sad...If you remove the TC clamp above the sight glass instead of the one below the butterfly valve, there is no longer a valved shut-off to the tank.
DON'T DO THAT!!!
Me too. It was meant to be an entry for an upcoming competition, and I really had high hopes for this one. Fortunately I have five other beers either ready to go or in the final stages of conditioning that I can bottle and enter. But this one was the brew I'd spent the most time preparing for, ordering special malts and hops in addition to spending $$$. One of the more expensive beers I've brewed in a while, literally as well as figuratively.I don't have a conical, so I haven't done that. If I had one, I'm sure I would have. Sorry for your loss.
That thought occurred to me several times during the extended clean-up. Back in the day when I still worked for a living, there were a number of different buttons and levers and circuit breakers, etc., that you wanted to be very careful NOT to activate without special forethought and purpose. Used to call 'em DFWI switches for "DON'T F*** WITH IT".So sad...
I almost did the same, and now I use red clamp nuts on below-waterline ports. Encourages me to think twice before doing something I'd regret.
https://www.brewershardware.com/San...tri-clover-compatible-clamp-nut-safety-dipped
I got in touch with Brewershardware and they are out of both the red and green replacement eyelet nuts, but hope to be restocked by the end of September. It's comforting to know that I'm apparently not the only one who's suffered this ignominious fate. Thanks for the link.So sad...
I almost did the same, and now I use red clamp nuts on below-waterline ports. Encourages me to think twice before doing something I'd regret.
https://www.brewershardware.com/San...tri-clover-compatible-clamp-nut-safety-dipped
I’m feelin’ your pain, brother! At least it was only blisters and not something worse. Like an entire lost batch. (I HATE it when I do that).I got a couple from the weekends brewday... here's how it started, Saturday evening prep the brewery, I brew with and e herms system, 15 gallon batch, so fill the hlt to about 20 gallon mark to cover the herms coil, and 12 gallons in the mash tun, hook up all hoses and set the temps on the control panel, go to bed. Here comes the eff up. Dont, dont wake up at 6, have your wife (who is my brew partner and brews her own sometime so she knows what shes doing) turn the system on, lay back down while its heating check it an hour later to find that she never actually switched the heating element to hlt, so, basically we circulated water for an hour just for fun, without heating anything, dont do that, just double check things 10 minutes in. I can see the look on ever lodo guys face right now as all that extra splashing was taking place for an hour before even heating things hahahaha. Oh well, the rest of the brewday went well, until the end so here's the other dont do that.
I have a pump that I have not yet mounted because I want to build a little shelf for it that I can slide in and out under my brew table. So here we go, after flame out hook up hoses to whirlpool for 15min, got an air bubble so the pump has a bleeder valve, at this point the pump isn't hot so I grab the unmounted pump and crack the bleeder, now that still almost boiling wort starts to flow and here I am with my hand in the quick connect fitting to get leverage on the air bleeder, it gets hot, fast. Dont do that, put gloves on like you always do, dummy. Some how I only blistered one finger.
That sparks visions of your fermzilla flying around the room making a 'fffffbbbbbttt' sound like a balloon. I removed the lid of my fermzilla all-rounder ONCE with 5psi in it, lucky I emerged unbruised as it flew a few feet in the air.So yesterday I pressure-transferred my last batch of beer from my Fermzilla Tri-conical into a keg. Being a little short on time, I deferred cleaning to today. Moved the fermenter to the sink to dump out the trub, and removed the bottom tri-clamp fitting. Without relieving pressure. Yeah, don't do that.
The highest I saw any was about 6' up from the floor (which would be 3-4' up from where the base of the fermenter was at the time). But it got some range--there was some on the door, some 10' away. But no one was hurt and nothing damaged--just a heck of a mess.Question: how high up the wall did the trub/gunk go?
Tricky fix that one, I'd recommend putting the connector into a clamp, heating each wire and then pulling rapidly to try and clear as much solder from the pin bucket as possible. If you have a solder pump, then you can reheat the bucket and suck the solder out. If not, grip the connector with a pair of pliers, reheat the bucket and tap the connector bucket down on something hard to jolt the liquid solder out.Don't forget to unplug your temp probe before moving the kettle from the brew table to the sink for cleaning, now I gotta bust out my soldering skills. View attachment 828083
You've got to tell us - what did you do?Pitch yeast and see a fruit fly swimming in the foam from aerating the wort View attachment 831346
Not a problem. It's all protein. The alcohol will sanitize it, after it's killed the little bugger. Look on the bright side: he'll die happy.Pitch yeast and see a fruit fly swimming in the foam from aerating the wort View attachment 831346
It's probably doesn't matter anymore, but have you tried to retrieve it?Pitch yeast and see a fruit fly swimming in the foam from aerating the wort
Enter your email address to join: