Getting into Mead, My journey

[MX1]

Looking to get into Mead.
Want to start two 1 gallon batches this weekend actually or 2 batches in 1 gallon "pickle" style jars. My LHBS sells them with grommet lids for an air lock.
Nothing fancy, Costco Honey to start.
Is there a decent, simple starter recipe, or a legit go-to web site with some step by step instructions, I know it should not be that hard to accomplish,but don't want to miss an important step

Thank you in advance
T

ALL MY THREADS ABOUT MEADS:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/bulk-honey-resources.703137/

 

[DBhomebrew]

I use a lot of honey, my utility sweetner. I used Costco Raw for years. It's raw, seasonal, regional, good stuff.

It's neither the only nor last word on mead, but check out BOMM.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/brays-one-month-mead.429241/
For the most recent info from Bray himself...

https://www.youtobrew.com/mead-making-101

 

[MX1]

I use a lot of honey, my utility sweetner. I used Costco Raw for years. It's raw, seasonal, regional, good stuff.

It's neither the only nor last word on mead, but check out BOMM.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/brays-one-month-mead.429241/
For the most recent info from Bray himself...

https://www.youtobrew.com/mead-making-101

Yep, just read that whole site, and looked over the BOMM....It might not be this weekend, but it will happen within 2 weeks!

 

[MX1]

This is going to serve as my "Everything Mead" thread I don't want to have a new thread for each question I know I am going to have.
Also, maybe a new Mead Maker (Mazer?) will find some value.

I own almost everything I need because I have been brewing beer for over a decade; however this is my planned fermentation set up.
2x 1.4 gallon glass Little Big Mouth Bubblers with siphon - Primary Fermenter (on sale for $18)
2x 1 gallon wide mouth jar with grommet lid for air lock, secondary fermenter

Not sure what I will use for serving bottles.

I will be starting off with:
BOMM: Denard Brewing
JOA-BOMM: Denard Brewing

Currently looking for the 1388 yeast and a good source of honey....
But also looking forward to Labor Day so this will wait until after.

I do have a question I would like answered: I looked all over and could not find a measuring spoon down to .4 of a tsp, would 1/2 tsp be ok?
Also: in the JOA BOMM can I add the spices and other adjuncts in a bag, so I can repitch the yeast?

That is all for now
Thank you

 

[DBhomebrew]

I do have a question I would like answered: I looked all over and could not find a measuring spoon down to .4 of a tsp, would 1/2 tsp be ok?

With the small amounts you're measuring, weight is more accurate. A decent gram scale is cheap.

 

[MX1]

With the small amounts you're measuring, weight is more accurate. A decent gram scale is cheap.

got one, for hops....was asking for the documentation for future reference

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

You have a pleathora of wine yeasts to choose from instead of 1388 which is a diasticus strain, if you have trouble getting it. 71B 47D champagne strains etc.

Yes, a half tsp would be okay.

 

[MX1]

You have a pleathora of wine yeasts to choose from instead of 1388 which is a diasticus strain, if you have trouble getting it. 71B 47D champagne strains etc.

Yes, a half tsp would be okay.

Not for the BOMM from what I have read, it needs to be the 1388 to finish and be drinkable in the "One Month"
After I get the process and results down, I will move towards meads that need longer lay down times for sure

 

[Dan O]

This is going to serve as my "Everything Mead" thread I don't want to have a new thread for each question I know I am going to have.
Also, maybe a new Mead Maker (Mazer?) will find some value.

I own almost everything I need because I have been brewing beer for over a decade; however this is my planned fermentation set up.
2x 1.4 gallon glass Little Big Mouth Bubblers with siphon - Primary Fermenter (on sale for $18)
2x 1 gallon wide mouth jar with grommet lid for air lock, secondary fermenter

Not sure what I will use for serving bottles.

I will be starting off with:
BOMM: Denard Brewing
JOA-BOMM: Denard Brewing

Currently looking for the 1388 yeast and a good source of honey....
But also looking forward to Labor Day so this will wait until after.

I do have a question I would like answered: I looked all over and could not find a measuring spoon down to .4 of a tsp, would 1/2 tsp be ok?
Also: in the JOA BOMM can I add the spices and other adjuncts in a bag, so I can repitch the yeast?

That is all for now
Thank you

The difference between .4 and .5 tsp won't be enough to affect it negatively. I would just measure the 1/2 tsp & knock a little out, if you're worried about it.
You could get away with putting the spices in a small brew bag for the JAOBOMM, that should affect the flavors from getting extracted. As @DBhomebrew stated, a good gram scale is a good thing to use for measuring your nutrients.
Good luck!

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

Not for the BOMM from what I have read, it needs to be the 1388 to finish and be drinkable in the "One Month"
After I get the process and results down, I will move towards meads that need longer lay down times for sure

Mead Making Cheat Sheet | Mead Made Right explore this site - drinkable mead in 2 weeks for future batches Wide and less expensive yeast selection. Just sharing info. I haven’t done BOMM and my JAOM didn’t take long to clear and tasted great, though I don’t recall if it was more than 2 months. I don’t mind giving things time, personally and certainly understand when the waiting is the hardest part.

 

[MX1]

My question about that site, and it may be that I am overthinking, I tend to do that...
for a semi-sweet mead is it 3.5 pounds of honey, then top off to 1 gallon or honey+1 gallon

 

[DBhomebrew]

It's a great question. Topping off to a gallon of must.

 

[MX1]

You know, because you have to

 

[JP_BeerFan]

Nice!!

On the small measurements / stabilizing chemicals question, yes, definitely, on the small scale. Very handy thing to have. I got this one from Amazon: Weigh Gram works great, about the only thing I'd suggest is getting one of the better rated of the bazillion out there that is 200g instead of 100g max. 7oz vs 3.5 might be more flexible in the future. OTOH, that pan is so small, it might be hard to measure 7oz of some powder on it, and you'd do it in batches anyway...

Other thing to do, is to make solutions of your stabilizers, then add an amount with a calibrated syringe. Make a 10% solution, figure out how many ml per gallon makes your target PPM, measure and add w the syringe. Very easy. Keeping the solutions sealed from air, the K-meta more than the K-sorbate, is important.

You need to get some tightly sealing, all glass or plastic bottles for this, especially for the K metabisulfate. That stuff is very corrosive! My first try was a repurposed olive jar, or something like that, glass with a coated metal lid and rubber seal. Wasn't long before it found its way through the seal coating on the inside of the lid and rust was busting out all over, contaminating the batch. Found something else with a all plastic lid.

 

[MX1]

Nice!!

On the small measurements / stabilizing chemicals question, yes, definitely, on the small scale. Very handy thing to have. I got this one from Amazon: Weigh Gram works great, about the only thing I'd suggest is getting one of the better rated of the bazillion out there that is 200g instead of 100g max. 7oz vs 3.5 might be more flexible in the future. OTOH, that pan is so small, it might be hard to measure 7oz of some powder on it, and you'd do it in batches anyway...

Other thing to do, is to make solutions of your stabilizers, then add an amount with a calibrated syringe. Make a 10% solution, figure out how many ml per gallon makes your target PPM, measure and add w the syringe. Very easy. Keeping the solutions sealed from air, the K-meta more than the K-sorbate, is important.

You need to get some tightly sealing, all glass or plastic bottles for this, especially for the K metabisulfate. That stuff is very corrosive! My first try was a repurposed olive jar, or something like that, glass with a coated metal lid and rubber seal. Wasn't long before it found its way through the seal coating on the inside of the lid and rust was busting out all over, contaminating the batch. Found something else with a all plastic lid.

I have a 500g scale, had it for years for hop additions!!
As for pre mixing, I have never been a fan, no real reason why, In my head, adding Xgrams of whatever to a small amount of water then dosing makes sense to me....I do need to order some 50ml plastic test tubes,for yeast, and maybe I will give making solutions a try, but gotta find a calculator for that

 

[MX1]

Or this.....

 

[MX1]

https://www.desertcreekhoney.com/
Anyone use this Honey, have not found a lot about good or bad searching the webz

Also for purchasing,we calling 10-12 oz honey = 1lb?

 

[Dan O]

16 ounces = 1 pound.
Never used that honey before, but, I have heard no problems from anyone who has used them.

 

[madscientist451]

Is there a decent, simple starter recipe, or a legit go-to web site with some step by step instructions, I know it should not be that hard to accomplish,but don't want to miss an important step

Thank you in advance
T

https://www.meadmaderight.com/
Start with one gallon batches until you get some experience and can determine which direction you want to go with your mead.
Dry wine yeast works fine, I use D-47 or 71B.
Use 1 pack per gallon or build up a starter.
Raisins are not a yeast nutrient.
Don't boil your water/honey mixture.
You don't need expensive honey, I've made pretty good mead with honey from big box stores, however the expensive specialty honey has its place and at this point is about the only way you'll win anything in the big mead competitions.
Follow TONSA protocol found on above website.
Rehydrate yeast with Go-Ferm.
Add first nutrient addition after 24 hours.
Keep fermenter in a cool place.
Add staggered nutrient additions following the TONSA schedule. For a lower ABV mead, you can add all the nutrients at one time.
Recipe will depend on what you are looking for in a mead, my suggestion would be to start with "beer strength" ABV mead and then "blend in the glass" with whatever flavors/fruit juice you feel like having.

 

[MX1]

16 ounces = 1 pound.
Never used that honey before, but, I have heard no problems from anyone who has used them.

Ok, was not sure if it was sold by weight or fl oz.....

 

[MightyMosin]

Not for the BOMM from what I have read, it needs to be the 1388 to finish and be drinkable in the "One Month"

I wouldn't get too hung up on that aspect... while it can be drinkable in 1 month, you may like it much better in 3 or more.

There are plenty of ways to do session/lite/short meads that are drinkable in 2-3 weeks; If you want immediate consumption than forge ahead and I understand the desire to make and try. Do the BOMM, but expand and try other yeasts later and you will certainly know what a difference the yeast makes.

 

[MX1]

I wouldn't get too hung up on that aspect... while it can be drinkable in 1 month, you may like it much better in 3 or more.

There are plenty of ways to do session/lite/short meads that are drinkable in 2-3 weeks; If you want immediate consumption than forge ahead and I understand the desire to make and try. Do the BOMM, but expand and try other yeasts later and you will certainly know what a difference the yeast makes.

of course I will...just want a solid starting point, doing the BOMM and the JAOM as points of departure for further research

 

[JP_BeerFan]

https://www.desertcreekhoney.com/
Anyone use this Honey, have not found a lot about good or bad searching the webz

Also for purchasing,we calling 10-12 oz honey = 1lb?

Funny, I was just trying to figure that out...

Honey of course will vary on how much water is in it, though it seems the bees are fairly consistent in that. In my recent round of looking that up over several sources, it seems to end up around 1.5 oz weight to 1.0 oz of volume (fluid oz).

So, that would make 1 lb come out to 10.666 ounces in your measuring cup, and 16 oz (a pint) by volume would weigh around 24 oz. Hmmm, guess that's why I see so many 24oz containers as a common size, in supermarkets. Must be a "16oz" liquid volume jar.

Of course you want to get clear on what the honey seller is using for measurement before you buy, so you get the amount you want.

 

[MX1]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W277RRT/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I ordered these to add spices and such in the secondary...I have always disliked adding stuff to yeast that I might want to harvest

 

[MX1]

So about to put in my order for 6 pounds of either:
McCoy's Honey Florida Orange Blossom Honey
or
Sweet Squeeze Raw Honey - Unfiltered & Unpasteurized Orange Blossom Honey
I want to start with OB Honey, but it is not local to Colorado. Is there a reason to pick on over the other

Thanks

 

[Dan O]

So about to put in my order for 6 pounds of either:
McCoy's Honey Florida Orange Blossom Honey
or
Sweet Squeeze Raw Honey - Unfiltered & Unpasteurized Orange Blossom Honey
I want to start with OB Honey, but it is not local to Colorado. Is there a reason to pick on over the other

Thanks

Either is a good honey

 

[MX1]

So, I am getting close to getting ready to start my 1st and 2nd 1 gallon batches.
Need to order my honey, and look for a LHBS to get the yeast this weekend.
My new stir plate arrived, so I need to look for how to make a mead starter, I only have a 1000 ml flask and I want to be able to grow 1 vial of yeast large enough for both batches.

Batch 1=BOMM
Batch 2= JOA-BOMM -if I follow the BOMM nutrient schedule can I skip the raisins? Can I add all the spices and orange peel to the secondary, saving the yeast cake to pitch anew batch on?
Edit: for the JOA I am going to make a standard BOMM and add the other stuff in a extra large tea-ball during primary.

 

[MX1]

ok, so I am about to get this started, and talking about starters....
lets say I wanted to buy 1 pack of 1388 and step it up so I could split it between two 1 gallon meads...
I am thinking about 6oz honey / 6 cups total volume, let it run for a day or so, and split the contents

Edit: Honey will be here tomorrow

T

 

[Dan O]

ok, so I am about to get this started, and talking about starters....
lets say I wanted to buy 1 pack of 1388 and step it up so I could split it between two 1 gallon meads...
I am thinking about 6oz honey / 6 cups total volume, let it run for a day or so, and split the contents

Edit: Honey will be here tomorrow

T

Follow Bray's instructions & you'll be fine.
Yeast starter instructions

https://www.denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Start/

 

[MX1]

For my JOABOMM...I can not find Currents
Picked up Craisens...dried cranberries should work right?

 

[MX1]

And
Could not find loose Oranges so I bought some Clementines how much peel should I use

Or can I just cut 2 up and toss it in

 

[Dan O]

And
Could not find loose Oranges so I bought some Clementines how much peel should I use

Or can I just cut 2 up and toss it in

2 should work fine in place of oranges

 

[MX1]

With adding orange and spices and such do I need to use a camp den tablet

If so how many for a gallon and how long should I wait to pitch yeast

 

[Dan O]

With adding orange and spices and such do I need to use a camp den tablet

If so how many for a gallon and how long should I wait to pitch yeast

If you're zesting the orange, there's no worry for it. Pitch right away.

 

[MX1]

Ok one more and sorry for all the questions, will the craisens be an"ok" sub for the currants, there are non around me

 

[MX1]

Starting these tomorrow:

1.2 Gallon Batch: JOA-ish BOMM

3lb OB Honey
Peels from 2 Cuties
1/2 Small whole Clove
1/2 Nutmeg Berry
1 All-spice Berry
1 Vanilla bean
Wyeast 1388

1.2 Gallon Batch BOMM

3lb OB Honey
Wyeast 1388


Will follow the SNA feeding protocol for both, I hope to have some pics tomorrow

 

[Dan O]

Ok one more and sorry for all the questions, will the craisens be an"ok" sub for the currants, there are non around me

The cranberries will give a bit of a different flavor, but, yes they will work. Craisins tend to have a slight oil on them though, so, I would give them a good long rinse with hot water & rubbed dry with paper towels before using them. Hopefully it get some of the oil off of them before adding to the must.
Good luck!
Happy meading

 

[MX1]

The cranberries will gi e a bit of a different flavor, but, yes they will work. Craisins tend to have a slight oil on them though, so, I would give them a good long rinse with hot water & rubbed dry with paper towels before using them. Hopefully it get some of the oil off of them before adding to the must.
Good luck!
Happy meading

For this Mead, I am going to skip them. The only JOAM that has currants in it is the Good Dr.'s so I am going with plane above.
Will start cleaning and prepping after coffee....

 

[Dan O]

For this Mead, I am going to skip them. The only JOAM that has currants in it is the Good Dr.'s so I am going with plane above.
Will start cleaning and prepping after coffee....

Don't rush, take accurate notes. I use this sheet as a guide to help me keep good notes.

 

[bwible]

You have a pleathora of wine yeasts to choose from instead of 1388 which is a diasticus strain, if you have trouble getting it. 71B 47D champagne strains etc.

Yes, a half tsp would be okay.

1388 is Saison yeast. It works at slightly warmer temps and I think thats why people think it works in a one month mead. Being a saison yeast it is going to contribute a flavor that a more neutral wine yeast will not.

I always thought of mead as wine, not beer. I have always used wine yeast whenever I’ve made mead. I have never used beer yeast. So I can’t really comment on that. It just stands to reason that if yeast contributes a flavor to a beer then there is no reason to think it won’t contribute flavor to mead. I have heard of people using Munton’s dried ale yeast and saying it makes a peach flavor.

I’ve had decent results with D47, RC212, and I once used a dessert wine yeast.

I don’t care for Belgian beers or Saisons myself, but thats me. So I would never use those yeasts in mead. Or anything.