Got wood? Or, should I get a metal workbench?

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lamarguy

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My cheap particleboard workbench broke after 5 years and I'm looking for a more rugged workbench that will last a while (10+ years).

Requirements:

  1. Less than $300.
  2. Able to take the occasional water/chemical splash (particleboard is out!).
  3. Able to support a 6" vise (pipe fitting, soldering, brazing, etc.).
  4. At least 6 feet long.
  5. Able to store tools and such (implies shelving).

Option #1 - 6 ft long, super thick maple top, $198 (comparable workbenches sell for $350 - $400 at Lowes and Sears)
0001764120206_L4.jpg

Concerns:

  1. Would need to periodically clean/sand and re-seal the wood.
  2. I'll need to build some shelves, but the horizontal supports should make that easy.
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Option #2 - 4 ft long, thin stainless steel top and chrome shelve, $120 (comparable workbenches sell for $200 - $250)
0001764118310_L4.jpg

Concerns:

  1. I'll need to purchase two benches to make 6+ ft, so $240.
  2. I'm not really diggin' the chrome shelves (chrome tends to chip over time).
  3. I'd like a second shelf, which would be difficult to add.
  4. I'm not positive the top is sturdy enough to support a vise.

Thoughts? Suggestions? :)
 
Build one?

I built mine with a 2x8 base and 2x6 framework. OSB for the bench top because I like to screw and nail into it for braces. Could be covered with anything tho'. 4 upper shelves.

Cost me about $250 in material and a Saturday night putting together. Took 4 of us to move it tho'.

I am buying myself a bench vise over lunch. It is just time. I plan to back brace it with 2x4's.
 
I had considered building one but I'd rather not futz around with getting the materials home, building it, painting it, sealing the top, etc. if I can purchase a sturdy bench for approximately the same cost.

Ha....Ya, the vise is what eventually broke the table (cranking on some 2 in pipe). I bolted a metal plate to the 1/2" particle board top years ago to strengthen the base, but the wood eventually gave out (epic fail!). The frame is starting to rust too, so I'm done with cheap benches.
 
I never did seal or paint mine. It's a workbench.

It'll get seal and painted through the years via machine oil and overspray.
 
I had considered building one but I'd rather not futz around with getting the materials home, building it, painting it, sealing the top, etc. if I can purchase a sturdy bench for approximately the same cost.

Ha....Ya, the vise is what eventually broke the table (cranking on some 2 in pipe). I bolted a metal plate to the 1/2" particle board top years ago to strengthen the base, but the wood eventually gave out (epic fail!). The frame is starting to rust too, so I'm done with cheap benches.

Another option is to buy the hardwood top one and cover it with a sacrifical (hard board, masonite) top.

Personally, I like a wood top... don't have to worry so much about ruining tools, etc.

I built 2 work benches years ago and put 1/4" hardboard over the top... cuts, scratches, stain, paint, etc, etc... I was just looking at one of them this past weekend and thought, "I should replace that top".

Works for me.

Good luck,
Ed
 
Go with the wood top from Sams - good deal. Less noisy and much nicer to work on than metal, not to mention sandable to make it look like new.
 
I was looking to build one for myself using 2x4's for the top. Line them up on edge and glue and bolt them together. Use threaded rod and nuts to draw it up tight.

2x4 s are cheap and durable. You can even cover with sheet of something else to take the dings.
 
Mine are wood (particle board actually), but like Ohio-Ed suggests, I have a sacrificial top of 1/4" hardboard that is cheap and easy to change when it gets too beat up.
 
I have the wood one from Sams its a very substantial workbench I have a large vise on it I just used cardboard to protect the top but I am a little anal that way. I didnt put a shelf under it I just used two 2 drawer metal filing cabinets to hold my tools.
 
For just a regular work bench I prefer wood. The only reason I would go with metal would be if it were important I start with a super clean working surface each time. If you are not using it for type of work I would go with wood. Metal is slippery and could be loud if you need to do any hammering or banging on it. Just my thoughts.
 
I was looking to build one for myself using 2x4's for the top. Line them up on edge and glue and bolt them together. Use threaded rod and nuts to draw it up tight.

2x4 s are cheap and durable. You can even cover with sheet of something else to take the dings.

That might be tough because 2x4 are notorious for being warped and twisted, and are still wet when hitting the box box stores so even the ones you find that are straight might not stay straight. Gluing them together would help but not prevent a warping action. Best off to frame with 2x4 and lay 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf on top. Thats all I do, and I replace the top layer of mdf every other year

When I was first building mine:
Workbench_001.jpg
 
Thanks for the ideas!

I'm going with the 6' long wood top table from Sams. It appears to be an excellent deal. I plan to cover it with 1/4" melamine MDF (or something comparable) that I can replace as needed and avoid having to refinish the maple.

I like the file cabinet idea. Springer, where did you find two-drawer filing cabinets for a reasonable price?
 
I'm all about building stuff like that. Built my sons a triple bunk bed this summer for under $400 (including some tools).

My first project like this and not 100% perfect, but it's sturdy, level and more rugged than a commercial version (which cost about $2000).
 
I'm all about building stuff like that.

I'm very much into building things too, but only when there is some tangible benefit (e.g., cost savings, improved design, etc.). If there is no tangible benefit, I choose to buy.

In this case, it would cost me $200 in materials, borrowing a truck, etc. to build a comparable workbench... ;)
 
Thanks for the ideas!

I'm going with the 6' long wood top table from Sams. It appears to be an excellent deal. I plan to cover it with 1/4" melamine MDF (or something comparable) that I can replace as needed and avoid having to refinish the maple.

I like the file cabinet idea. Springer, where did you find two-drawer filing cabinets for a reasonable price?

I picked up a whole bunch of office furniture and cabinets when the Territorial sales offices of the company that I contract for were combined in my region . Whatever they didn't mark as being kept was up for grabs everything was 5$ each .
 
Thanks for the ideas!

I'm going with the 6' long wood top table from Sams. It appears to be an excellent deal. I plan to cover it with 1/4" melamine MDF (or something comparable) that I can replace as needed and avoid having to refinish the maple.

I like the file cabinet idea. Springer, where did you find two-drawer filing cabinets for a reasonable price?

Since that's the way you're going... something to think about..

I attached the hardboard top with 1/2" or 3/4" brass screws. I do a lot of woodworking so I used brass screws in case I hit one with a chisel or plane it doesn't destroy the tool. I also countersunk the heads so If I slide something on the top it doesn't get scratched.

Ed
 
That might be tough because 2x4 are notorious for being warped and twisted, and are still wet when hitting the box box stores so even the ones you find that are straight might not stay straight. Gluing them together would help but not prevent a warping action. Best off to frame with 2x4 and lay 2 sheets of 3/4 mdf on top. Thats all I do, and I replace the top layer of mdf every other year

When I was first building mine:
Workbench_001.jpg

The glue and threaded rod are what keep them from warping.
 
I was looking to build one for myself using 2x4's for the top. Line them up on edge and glue and bolt them together. Use threaded rod and nuts to draw it up tight.

2x4 s are cheap and durable. You can even cover with sheet of something else to take the dings.

I've got a 2x4 based work bench. I think it cost me about $50 to put together, and its way more sturdy than the ones available in HD.
 
I've got a 2x4 based work bench. I think it cost me about $50 to put together, and its way more sturdy than the ones available in HD.

Ditto. Some 2x4's and a sheet of plywood will not cost $200.
This is what I used too.
It's not as nice as brrman's, but that not because of material, that's because of tools and skill being used :D
 
Finally bought myself a freakin vise. Little 4.5" job but, it's more than I had and I couldn;t think of a time I need the extra 1.5 Inches to justify the doubled cost. Got the heavy duty Bessey for $30. The 6" was $80. Woot.

So, now I get to see how well 5/8" OSB roof sheathing and some 2x's will hold up.
 
Disagree.

Building a heavy duty 6' workbench out of uni-strut, connection fittings, enamel paint (in lieu of powder coating), and a 1.75" hardwood top (layering sheets of hardwood) would cost at least $200...
 
I build mine out of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood. I covered it with two coats of Poly to make cleanup of spills easy. It is directly attached to the garage wall by 4" lag screws that go directly into the wall studs. If a plane crashes into my house, the last thing standing will be this workbench. I got the plans online, and kind of improvised to fit my needs, and the space available. I think all of the supplies ran less than $100. The granite in some of the pictures were given to me...the plywood is still underneath. It's also easy to add a fermentation chamber under a wooden workbench.

Here's the link to my post with the workbench plans (or what the workbench started out as :D): https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-fermentation-chamber-build-102846/index8.html#post1558215

IMG_0348.JPG
 
So, now I get to see how well 5/8" OSB roof sheathing and some 2x's will hold up.

Good luck, sir. 1/2" OSB is what broke on my last bench, with a 1/8" steel plate for support. The back half of the steel plate ripped out of the wood when I was seriously crankin' on a pipe. :eek:
 
Disagree.

Building a heavy duty 6' workbench out of uni-strut, connection fittings, enamel paint (in lieu of powder coating), and a 1.75" hardwood top (layering sheets of hardwood) would cost at least $200...

Why the hell are you using unistrut, fittings, and enamel. 2x4s and MDF/OSB.
 
Disagree.

Building a heavy duty 6' workbench out of uni-strut, connection fittings, enamel paint (in lieu of powder coating), and a 1.75" hardwood top (layering sheets of hardwood) would cost at least $200...

I said Wood would not cost $200.
It needs to hold things sturdy and not tear up a drill bit when you go through too far :D But yes, if you want something metal with a 2" thick top, it probably is cheaper to buy Chinese :p:mug:
 
Here's the link to my post with the workbench plans (or what the workbench started out as :D): https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-fermentation-chamber-build-102846/index8.html#post1558215

Looks nice. :) Now I just need to find the guy giving away free granite. :D

I ferment in upright freezers, so the space under the workbench isn't useful for my brewing purposes. But, I would definitely like to continue storing tools as I do now....And, leave space to park my car.
 
Looks nice. :) Now I just need to find the guy giving away free granite. :D

I ferment in upright freezers, so the space under the workbench isn't useful for my brewing purposes. But, I would definitely like to continue storing tools as I do now....And, leave space to park my car.

Does the "wife" park in the gareg too? On the side that has the bench?

Prolly aught to go with structural steel then.
 
Ya, we both park in the garage...I park on the side with the bench, she parks on the side with the brewstand (since her car is smaller).

Oh GAWD. Sacrifice the bench SAVE THE BREWERY!

Oh, wait, I forgot she drinks too so she'll pay attention to the brewery.

Move along. Nothing to see here.

How's the pooch?
 
To make a fair comparison to the cost of building the bench shown in the OP. ;)

0001764120206_LG.jpg

You don't need the same materials to make a fair comparison. You need the same performance, which you'd absolutely get with 2x4s. I don't see any advantage to unistrut legs, so I don't see them as adding anything other than cost.
 
You don't need the same materials to make a fair comparison. You need the same performance, which you'd absolutely get with 2x4s. I don't see any advantage to unistrut legs, so I don't see them as adding anything other than cost.

I have had a BB chevy engine sitting on the table in question fully assembled minus the pan. Its a great table for the price no bracing needed if you add a vise i just used large nuts bolts with washers. I also have two of these in the first pick for when I need a completely clean surface its 38 inches wide buy 72 inches long. The one with the backsplash and casters my wife confiscated and is now a brew station as in coffee in the kitchen

table1.jpg


table.jpg
 
The beauty of HBT. You ask for suggestion and all you get is Told that you're wrong :) we all get a little out of hand here on technicalities. If that is what you want go for it. Sometimes not having to build something is worth some coin. I enjoy DIY, but sometime it's nice to just write a check.
 
I'm in the "heavy, cheap, and dirty" camp when it comes to workbenches. Personally, I like a heavy 2x4 frame with one or more sheets of MDF on top. For the workbench in my lab at work, I added a few sheets of 10 gauge sheet steel with countersunk flathead screws holding it down to the MDF. Then I painted the sheet metal with hammerite.

It's a nice workbench, and can take hammer blows without denting.
 
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