?? Gravity ??

[dumptrucksally]

I just brewed my second extract brew and it came to a FG of 1.019...

**Just so I have this correct..Will all disregard to off flavors, the longer it sits in the fermenter the longer the gravity will drop!**

The reason i am asking is because the last two beers i have brewed.. One hit 1.021.. The other was 1.019..

So is there a gravity level where it will eventually settle upon the longer it sits in fermentation?? I know that it will never settle out to 0% ABV..

Just trying to expand my knowledge!

 

[jacksonbrown]

There is a point where fermentation has stopped and you your FG will not shift. That can be anywhere between three and seven days depending on your OG, the yeast you use (and how much), whether or not you used a starter, how much you aerated prior to pitching. I would also make sure you are taking the temperature of the beer in to account when taking the gravity reading as that can change the actual numbers. Most hydrometers are calibrated for 60 degrees, and as a general rule of thumb add 0.001 for every 10 degrees over.
What style beer have you been brewing that you're ending up with these high FG?
Hope this helps.

 

[dumptrucksally]

The temperature concept is very interesting.. I'll have to read my hydrometer and see what is calibrated for. I have been using Wyeast 1056 American Ale.. The activator kind so it is ready to pitch after i break the inner pack.(smack pack)

When i cool my wert I pitch it into a bucket..Pitch the Yeast and stir it around for a few minutes to get it nice and mixed. So aeration should be pretty set..

My first batch was an APA but i think it was infected, bad yeast possibly. That is what my homebrew buddies told me anyway. It tasted like sour bleach.. I even let it sit for another month and it still has a horrible smell. I dumped it.

My second Batch was the DFH60 Clone, a little different since I didn't go with All Grain.. OG was at 1.040 and at FG it was right at 1.018 or 1.019.. I didnt find that too high.. 5%-abv.

 

[maltMonkey]

My second Batch was the DFH60 Clone, a little different since I didn't go with All Grain.. OG was at 1.040 and at FG it was right at 1.018 or 1.019.. I didnt find that too high.. 5%-abv.

1.018 is a really high FG for a 1.040 beer. That's only 55% attenuation, 2.6% ABV. Was this extract, and if so did you stir the wort before taking the OG?

 

[dumptrucksally]

Yeah i swirled the bucket really well too mix the yeast and wert... How would i get better attenuation??

 

[Yooper]

1.018 is a really high FG for a 1.040 beer. That's only 55% attenuation, 2.6% ABV. Was this extract, and if so did you stir the wort before taking the OG?

Well, the ABV if those figures are correct is 2.88 [(OGxFG) x 131= ABV]
Still that's not very good attenuation as is noted!

I wonder if your OG is actually the figure that is wrong, particularly if you are doing extracts. With extract, sometimes if it's not mixed up extremely well, your OG readings are off because the extract "sinks" to the bottom. If you post your recipe, we can double check the OG for you.

1056 usually attenuates very well, so I think this points to some issues either with incorrect SG readings, or some extract that has too many unfermentables. I don't think the one extract that has given me trouble (Laaglander) is even made any more, so I don't think it's your extract. Again, post your recipe (and techniques) and we can see what the issue is.

 

[dumptrucksally]

I used 7lbs of Light DME.. and i steeped 1lb of maris otter grain.

Used 2 oz of columbus hops... and 1oz of tettnanger at the finish.

used ...wyeast 1056

 

[Yooper]

Did you mash the MO? If you did, your OG is 1.056 or so. MO is a base grain, and should be mashed ("steeped" at 150-155 degrees for 45 minutes).

If you FG is 1.018, the attenuation is only 66%, still not what you'd expect. With 1056, you can expect approx 75% attenuation. So, I'd expect a FG of 1.013-1.014 with that recipe and that yeast.

Is it possible that your hydrometer is off? You can test it in 60 degree water (distilled if you have it) and see what it reads. And don't forget- if your hydrometer is calibrated for 60 degrees, your OG samples should be taken at 60 degrees, also. Or, take them at 75 degrees and then use the correction chart (one came with my hydrometer or you can find them online) to correct the reading.

 

[Revvy]

Here's a good calculator you can use for temp correction of your hydro readings.

http://www.fermsoft.com/hydroCorrect.html

Make sure that you stir your wort/top off water thoroughly Then take your hydro reading, THEN pitch your yeast....I agree with Yooper that your OG might be off...

 

[dumptrucksally]

I think another problem i've been having is reaching 5 gallons.. I'm always a little short of 5 gallons. So do you think that could affect the FG.. I'm always hitting right at 4 1/2.. I need to start topping off.

 

[Yooper]

Well, if you're short on your batch, your OG would be higher, not lower. So, no that's not it.

I do think you're not mixing well enough when you pour into primary and top up with water. That's not really a big deal, but is what can give you false OG readings. The yeast know where to find the sugar, so it's not really a problem for fermentation. Next time, though, whip it up until it's frothy. It's better for yeast reproduction, and yeast health, which may improve your attenuation.

Also, since you use 1056, have you been making a starter, or just pitching it?

 

[Choguy03]

Try starting with 3 gallons boiled and then add that to your fermentor and let is cool down. Start with 3 gallons in your wort boil and by the time you finish you will be about 2.25 gallons. A little high, but maybe you can think of it as a little more beer.

 

[dumptrucksally]

Ha more beer, nice!

No i just pitch the yeast directly from the smack pack... The last time i used it, the fermentation took around 12 hours and was going crazy!! My airlock wouldn't shut up.. Bubbling about 5-6 times a second.