I Pee A-lot

[Paps]

For all you IPA fans out there,
and to get this written down before i lose my brew notes.
Would be glad to hear from the hop-heads think about this recipe.

General info--{projected}

figured for 65% efficiency per "brewmate" v1.26
10 gallon batch
OG 1.061
FG 1.013
ABV 6.33
IBU 54.7

GRAINS/FERMENTABLES

20.0-lbs Marris Otter
1.5-lbs American 2-row
.5-lbs Carapils (dextrine) malt
.5-lbs caramel-80
.5-lbs victory malt
1.0-lbs cane sugar (added after flame out)

HOPS

2.0-oz US fuggles @FWH
.5-oz amarillo @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz centennial @ 5 minutes
.5-oz citra @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz mosaic @ 5 minutes
1.0-oz cascade @ dry hop after primary (probably for a week)

WATER

I used the 5.2 water salts. 2 spoonfulls for strike, 1 for sparge water.
8-gallons strike water heated to 165-f
(due to having a new/slower set up this led to a )
protein rest for 30 minutes @ 130-f
(while i boiled 2 more gallons to up the temp for the )
sacc rest for 1 hour ( or maybe it was 90 minutes, lost track of time multitasking ) temp was 145-f
6-gallons sparge water heated to 185-f
which i started draining into the MT during the vourloft to keep the water level above the grains and this also bumped the temps up to 148-f/150-f ish

BOIL

60-65 minutes

NO CHILL METHOD

(this gets the IBU into IPA range and lets me be a lazy azz, that and my immersion chiller is broke anyways)

YEAST

will pitch onto a slurry that's a mix of US-04/05

===================================================

I'll post actuall readings after the wort is chilled and i'm ready to pitch it onto yeast.
Readings from the mash varied from 1.060 to 1.020
Did not test for PH but did perform iodine tests (which were fine)

ANYWHO

Hop Heads feel free to chime in here,
I'm not a fan of IPA's myself but wanted to brew a 10-gallon batch to deflower my new electric set up (caveman electric)
How `close to style` to an American IPA all this crap sound?
Did i break any cardinal rules?
If you were making an IPA what might you change,ect,ect.

I keg so force carbing is planned right after the 1-week dry hopping
(this could become a longer dry hopping depending when i get a keg opened up for new beer)

Thanks in advance for any feedback (except for "RDWHAHB" or "it will be beer" as i'm not worried and am well aware that "it will still be beer" )

Oh, and :turtle:

 

[Pappers_]

Interesting that you did one big five minute addition rather than breaking it up, at 15, 10, 5, 1 minutes. When I brew IPAs, generally I start adding more hops (after the 60 minute addition) at 15 and just keep adding them until flameout. What was your thinking on that?

This has nothing to do with your hopping, but isn't 145F a little low to mash at? Or have you had good results at that temp?

 

[JonM]

I'll be the first: ditch the 5.2 stabilizer. It doesn't do jack squat. Instead, you probably want to add gypsum to up the SO4 content. (And run the recipe through a good water calculator and verify mash pH.)

 

[Paps]

Big 5 min hop addition!!! What was your thinking on that?

Early in boil = max bitter & min aroma/flavor
late in boil = min bitter & max aroma/flavor
i personally dislike IPA`s but do like "Boulevards `hoppy wheat`"
its IBU = 30 but has BIG hop flavor
so basically i was shooting for something HUGE on the flavor part and leaving the bitter to the FWH addition & the "NO CHILL"
I figured this would be best accomplished by throwing everything in very late, I almost did`em all at flameout and may do it that way if i end up doing another IPA.

isn't 145F a little low to mash at? Or have you had good results at that temp?

This was my 1rst brewday on the new electric set-up.
Before i used a turkey fryer/propane burner with 5 gallon batches.
I would hit strike temp and dump the whole thing into my `cooler mash tun` in all of about 15 seconds. This electric set up has a minimum batch size of 10 gallons, so there was more water than i could lift so used the ball valve/gravity to get water into the MT ( now a 25-gal stainless pot and not an insulated cooler) This was rather slow and i lost A LOT of temperature.(it dropped to 130-f) so i boiled 2 gallons water on the propane burner (it took 30 mins to boil, so i call it "protein rest ) and 145-f ish is all it bumped up to.....i normally mash at 150-f but lower works fine if you give it some extra time.( which i did ) I hit 1.061 and volume over 10 gallons.

For future brews on this rig i will either have to overshoot the temps to compensate or maybe use a sanitized pitcher to help speed up the water transfer.

Thanks for the interest
-Paps

 

[Paps]

Bump

Needz feedback from hop-heads / IPA fans

 

[Pappers_]

Here's a few more thoughts regarding your hopping:

I wouldn't use Fuggles in an American IPA. In my IPAs I use either a clean bittering hop like Magnum or Horizon, or a hop that has a distinctly American quality, like Summit or Chinook.

I understand your idea regarding only using 5 minute additions, but by adding your hops at different times, you bring out more hop complexity in your beer. I typically will do a mash hop, a first wort hopping, a 15, 10, 5, 1 and flameout addition, using a variety of hops at each of those times.

1 oz for dry hopping isn't nearly enough, in my experience, to significantly enhance the hop aroma. For my latest IPA, I used 2 ounces each of three different hops (Mandarina Bavaria, Huell Melon, and Hallertau Blanc).

Good luck!

 

[chickypad]

The 5 min addition seems a bit kitchen sink to me with 5 different hops, personally I like to keep it to 2-3 different hops late but I wouldn't say it's necessarily "breaking any cardinal rules". For boil additions I might do half of that 4 oz at 10-15 and half at 5min, but you are way low as mentioned on the rest of the late hops with no flameout and just 1 oz dry hop for a 10 gal batch. I'd say add an additional 5-6 oz hopstand and 5-6 oz dry hop. I like to chill first to about 160 then add the hopstand addition to get mostly flavor/aroma and not additional bittering (though in your case you may want a little more bittering).

 

[Paps]

I'd say add an additional 5-6 oz hopstand

I did the "no chill" method which slowly goes through the hopstand temps.

As for the fuggles...it was the hop i had most of ( probably 8 oz left of it ) and didn't want to burn the 2 hours round trip it takes to get to the closest LHBS to spend 3 bux an oz for some more hops. But if i had a complete hop library on hand, i agree with you that i wouldn't generally use fuggles for an IPA, or at least not an American one.

 

[Paps]

F.G. hit 1.010 on both batches.

bumped up the dry hop to 4-oz total (2-oz per bucket)
of cascade.

Took a small taste from each hydrometer reading.
Not very bitter ( which to me is a good thing) and very fruity flavored.
Not sure if it was just grapefruit or that and a blend of other citrus flavors. Definately had a malt backbone from the marris otter. Will probably sub out more of the marris otter for 2-row if i end up doing this again. I'm thinking closer to the 50-50 % range.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

I would give you a lengthy reply, but I have to pee.






A lot.

 

[Paps]

After taking a pee, i took this to some regular IPA drinkers and was given good reviews. I don't care for it myself but that's the normal for me and IPA`s My reviewers said something to the affect of `There's a lot going on with this IPA & it has a lot of depth` and then proceeded to drink several glasses of it. So i guess it's not too bad. ( they had plenty other beers available to them at the time as well)
After that i assume they had to pee...a lot.