Here's some additional baby step info.
This is your mash tun (SS Brewtech Infussion):
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This is where you're gonna put your crushed grain into warm water and let it sit for like 60 minutes to extract the sugars.
This is your RIMS heater:
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It will have an electric heating element in it that you'll control with one of those two Blichmann Tower of Power controllers. It will use a temperature probe to measure the wort as it recirculates through the RIMS. You'll pick a mash temperature (148F - 156F), and then use your pump to pull wort out of your Mash Tun, send it through the RIMS, and then based on the temperature reading, the controller will either turn on or off if it's below or above the temperature you set on the controller.
When the wort you're recirculating during the mash comes back into the top fitting of your mash tun, you connect it to this Recirc Manifold:
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It lets the wort come in in a nice pattern so you're not drilling a hole in your grain bed with a firehose gusher stream of wort.
Since your pictures show 2 kettles (one SS Brewtech, the other Blichmann), you have what's referred to as a 2-Vessel (2V) setup. So after you mash for an hour, you pull the sugary wort liquid out of your mash tun using the same pump that has been recirculating, and direct it into the other kettle, which will be called a Boil Kettle (BK).
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This point forward in your process is exactly like how you made your beer when using extract. The mash tun portion is creating your extract from soaking crushed grain. Now the BK is going to need some further pictures/investigation from you to see what is the planned heat source. Is there an electric heating element inside? If so, you would probably hook it up to the other Tower of Power controller. If not, maybe you'll be using your propane burner, or however you did your extract batches.
The Stout is your fermentor:
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It's basically just your new plastic bucket. Treat it the same way. Sanitize it before putting your cooled wort into it. Monitor the temperature and put your yeast in at the right time. Have a blow-off or airlock to allow the CO2 created during fermentation to escape, etc.
The controllers for use during your mash and/or your boil are pretty simple. If you flip the toggle switch up to "Auto", it's going to turn the power on & off based on the temperature you've set with the little digital readout on the left, while comparing to the temperature it's measuring from your temperature probe. The middle position "Reset" is like off. And when the toggle switch is down to the "On" position, the controller will just be sending continuous power, not monitoring the temperature. When in that mode, the black control screen to the left lets you set the % power output, so you can dial down your boil intensity once your BK starts to boil.
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Now on your control stand, you have two controllers:
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There are little labels on there for "Mash", which would control your RIMS. And "HLT" which stands for Hot Liquor Tank, which is just a dumb name for hot water pot. If your Boil Kettle is electric, you could use this controller to control its heating element (even though someone put a sticker on there saying HLT). If your BK is not electric, then this HLT would be for a 3rd kettle that you use to heat water for sparging (since your RIMS can heat your water for mash-in). As a beginning journey, you can probably just skip the sparge step, and a do a "full volume mash" / "no sparge". If you so desire later, and want to do a 3rd vessel to heat sparge water, it makes your process a bit more complicated, but gets you better mash efficiency out of your grain. But that sparge process in itself is the topic for a whole other debate.