RO system recommendations?

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I too recommend @Buckeye_Hydro. Contact him with your needs and he’ll suggest a solution for you.

Mine is mounted downstairs, the typical 100 gpd unit. I have the drinking water add-on kit and permeate pump. My system has a split output, with one side connected to the pressure tank which routes out to our fridge ice maker and a drinking faucet I installed at our kitchen sink. The other output is not connected to the pressure tank and is for filling tanks for brewing water. Currently I’ve only done 5 gallon extract kits so I just fill a 7 gallon water cube using a timer to remind me to come shut the system off (100 gpd ≈ 4 gph). I just ordered an Anvil foundry so I’ll probably go to my initial plan of a float valve in a pair of linked 7 gallon water cubes for collecting.

A float valve is a lot cheaper than a pressure tank. Just need to remember to turn it on ahead of time. The system will run until the float valve shuts it off for you. In the meantime the small pressure tank will provide you with a decent amount of drinking water (the pressure tank can’t refill if the float valve is open).

Deadalus said:
Besides work, I've run into other kitchens with the drinking water faucet on the side. Those may or may not be RO then I guess. Maybe we have a pressure tank though, I will check next opportunity and see.
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I suspect more of these faucets are not RO vs ones that are RO, because RO systems are expensive and people are cheap. Also as stated some people do not like the taste of RO water.

I’ve seen these faucets installed completely unfiltered simply to provide unsoftened water for drinking when the kitchen sink has soft water. Some people just have simple carbon filters to improve taste.

Bottom line though is no pressure tank means it’s almost certainly not RO.
 
Wables said:
I went back a few pages and didn’t see a thread on this. Can anyone give a recommendation on a RO system?
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I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com
 
Reneauj62 said:
I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com
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Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.
 
Reneauj62 said:
I have been eyeing the Fizzlife tankless RO. Very low water loss and not like the $3,000-3,500 one that people are suggesting. These Fizzlife are rated well and lets face it, as long as the water is pure does it really matter how much you spend? With this system you can also opt to remineralize your water but not sure why you would for homebrew. Frizzlife Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System - Alkaline & Remineralization, Superb Taste, Tankless, 500 GPD Fast Flow RO Filter, 1.5:1 Pure to Drain, Reduces TDS, Brushed Nickel Faucet, USA Tech - - Amazon.com
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Get a system from Buckeye Hydro. You’re going to get a high quality system tweaked for your needs, with better (and cheaper) filters. The entire system is cheaper. You don’t need 500 gpd as a home brewer.

My 100 GPD system was $365 last year. This included a chloramine removal stage since our water has chloramines, the drinking water add-on kit, float valve, inline dual TDS meter, and permeate pump. If you don’t want drinking water you can skip the drinking water add-on and permeate pump and it’ll be much cheaper than this.

Oh, and you’ll also get great support for both before and after purchase.
4C23A4BE-66AA-4329-9B87-81E350BBB379.jpeg

I haven’t actually installed the TDS meter yet butI just need to split the lines and stick them into the PTC fittings of the meter. Also need to neaten up my hose routing at some point.
 
The water equipment business is rife with hucksters and thieves. Any seller that promises something to good to be true is likely to be stretching the truth or is pulling the wool over your eyes. Going with a recommended and proven supplier such as Russ, is your best protection from the thieves.

In my Zymurgy articles on RO systems, I strongly recommend going with having storage in your system as opposed to buying an oversized RO unit. Having storage will always provide better flow rate and be less expensive than an oversized RO unit. Either pressure tank or open tank, your choice.

I use a 20 gal pressure tank with my system to provide a reliable 10 gallon delivery for brewing my typical 6 gal batches. An important factor in my tank selection is that my system also supplies my kitchen and ice maker. Be aware that you can gang together multiple RO tanks to supplement your overall storage. So I do have my original 2 gal tank teed with my 20 gal tank.

Oh and for God’s sake, be sure to buy a TDS meter to check your system’s output!!
 
Buckeye_Hydro said:
Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.
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Thank you for the insight, I found it very informative I don't have have all the information which is why I am eyeing and not buying. I currently have a GE RO system (which stays with the house after I sell it) and the filters are much more than this Fizzliite. But, the filters last a heck of a long time according to my TSD meter. I will look into the Buckeye even though it may be more expensive. Thanks again.
 
Buckeye_Hydro said:
Realize that those replacement filters are proprietary and very expensive.

Any RO system can be set up to a 1.5:1 Pure water to drain water ratio... but you don't want that for a number of reasons.

The manufacturer is NINGBO YISIPU HUANBAO KEJI YOU XIAN GONG SI in China. Who are you going to call for support? Their website does not include a phone number.

The prefilter is only good for a few hundred gallons.

Have chloramines? The system does not have a prefilter to address that.

There are no testing spec's available on the membrane. Typically 500 gpd membranes are spec'ed at 80 or 100 psi (or more) and 77F.

The website claims the membrane removes "99.99% of 1000+ harmful contaminants." Unfortunately there is not an RO membrane on the planet that can live up to that claim.
Click to expand...
So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?
 
jseyfert3 said:
Get a system from Buckeye Hydro. You’re going to get a high quality system tweaked for your needs, with better (and cheaper) filters. The entire system is cheaper. You don’t need 500 gpd as a home brewer.

My 100 GPD system was $365 last year. This included a chloramine removal stage since our water has chloramines, the drinking water add-on kit, float valve, inline dual TDS meter, and permeate pump. If you don’t want drinking water you can skip the drinking water add-on and permeate pump and it’ll be much cheaper than this.

Oh, and you’ll also get great support for both before and after purchase.
View attachment 744442
I haven’t actually installed the TDS meter yet butI just need to split the lines and stick them into the PTC fittings of the meter. Also need to neaten up my hose routing at some point.
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So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?
 
Reneauj62 said:
So, looking at the Buckeye systems, there are the regular RO systems and the RODI (deionized) ... any thoughts?
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RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.
 
jseyfert3 said:
RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.
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Very good, and save me money... Thanks
 
jseyfert3 said:
RODI is just an RO system that also runs the water through a DI resin filter to remove the remaining ions the RO system doesn’t get. This is really only used at the home scale for saltwater aquariums where it’s very important to have pure water as a base for the sensitive aquatic life. For brewing it’s not needed.
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Exactly! Not needed nor is it desirable. A DI stage just adds cost and complication that is not warranted for brewing usage.
 
Buckeye_Hydro said:
All pressurized RO storage tanks tend to result in the taste and odor of the plastic bladder in the tank showing up in the water. Even very small tanks. This is easy to address however with a simple taste and odor filter between the tank and the outlet.
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Does this only apply to pressurized containers?
Non pressurized containers do not exhibit this?
 
It depends upon the container you're using. An unpressurized (aka "atmospheric") poly tank can impart taste/odor... but it is less common.
 
Good point on tank choice. I am considering this HDPE tank. The shape and size would work well for my area and it has good locations to mount a float valve.

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=45893&catid=599
Also is there a practical limit on how far a distance you can run 1/4" RO delivery tubing?
Is a 100 ft run ok? If so does it matter which end of the 100 ft run a pressure tank gets located for drinking water supply?

I should probably just call you but I am home with covid and it hurts to speak right now... lol

Cheers
 
Got it.
On the end of the 100 ft run, where the pressure tank and outlet gets located, would I keep all associated fittings in the 3/8" size or just put a 1/4 to 3/8 union on both ends of the 100 ft run and run all 1/4" fittings?
 
KevinP said:
Got it.
On the end of the 100 ft run, where the pressure tank and outlet gets located, would I keep all associated fittings in the 3/8" size or just put a 1/4 to 3/8 union on both ends of the 100 ft run and run all 1/4" fittings?
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I'd jump down to 1/4" but that is not critical
 
RO wastes a lot of water so for a similar price or less you could get an electric distiller. Some areas are heavily affected by drought and it makes a difference.
 
Living in SoCal, water waste is a huge issue. I pipe my waste water into the rain barrels in the backyard, which then is used to water the plants. I do the same with the cooling water going through my plate chiller. I had to buy about $10.00 worth of extra tubing to go the distance. @Buckeye_Hydro is definitely a great vendor to work with and helped me figure out what was wrong with my house water pressure so that we would get the most out of the system.
 
JAReeves said:
Living in SoCal, water waste is a huge issue. I pipe my waste water into the rain barrels in the backyard, which then is used to water the plants. I do the same with the cooling water going through my plate chiller. I had to buy about $10.00 worth of extra tubing to go the distance. @Buckeye_Hydro is definitely a great vendor to work with and helped me figure out what was wrong with my house water pressure so that we would get the most out of the system.
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I've been doing this too I have some containers handy for lower volumes but I just ordered a bulkhead ptc fitting so I don't have to unscrew the big cap on my IBC tote. Can't think of much to do with it though in the wintertime. Maybe get a smaller tank for inside and hook it up to the washer.
 
beren said:
RO wastes a lot of water so for a similar price or less you could get an electric distiller. Some areas are heavily affected by drought and it makes a difference.
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"Waste" is a bit of a loaded word. It would be a waste to run it down the drain but if you repurpose it for other activities that would otherwise use water, it's not bad. You can wash dishes and clothes with it. Note that distilling water not only spends up electricity, which in many cases is produced by burning coal or natural gas, but it also needs a source of cooling for the condensing which comes from either tap water or ice (see above).
 
Bobby_M said:
"Waste" is a bit of a loaded word. It would be a waste to run it down the drain but if you repurpose it for other activities that would otherwise use water, it's not bad. You can wash dishes and clothes with it. Note that distilling water not only spends up electricity, which in many cases is produced by burning coal or natural gas, but it also needs a source of cooling for the condensing which comes from either tap water or ice (see above).
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Or from an electric fan, like mine has. I wasn’t talking about a pot still. Sure some electricity is dirty some is from solar or wind. If you’re in an area with severe drought you’re probably not watering your plants very often nor would I want a barrel full of old water to use for a washing dishes clean, and plumbing it for a washer? Really? Neither solution is perfect but for total cost per gallon when I looked distillation was far cheaper. Single purchase and no filters to ever buy vs an expensive setup, expensive filters, and 20% efficiently or worse (1gal ro with 4gal waste). My old distiller uses 580w to distill 1gal in about 5h. Less if I use hot tap water. There’s downsides to each method and hidden costs whether it’s environmental or labor or consumables.
 
Bobby_M said:
If it's not, then I guess I don't understand what "Meets FDA standards" means.
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If an item says it meets FDA standards, it is acceptable for any food type materials. To be safe for water (and food), it would need to meet NSF standards.

NSF stands for National Sanitation Foundation. If NSF rated it means it has passed some standard or test procedure and is certified for use in a residential or commercial project for contact with potable water.

Russ
 
beren said:
Or from an electric fan, like mine has. I wasn’t talking about a pot still. Sure some electricity is dirty some is from solar or wind. If you’re in an area with severe drought you’re probably not watering your plants very often nor would I want a barrel full of old water to use for a washing dishes clean, and plumbing it for a washer? Really? Neither solution is perfect but for total cost per gallon when I looked distillation was far cheaper. Single purchase and no filters to ever buy vs an expensive setup, expensive filters, and 20% efficiently or worse (1gal ro with 4gal waste). My old distiller uses 580w to distill 1gal in about 5h. Less if I use hot tap water. There’s downsides to each method and hidden costs whether it’s environmental or labor or consumables.
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As far as fishing lines through a wall, 1/4" is about as easy as it gets, it's on the level of speaker wire being thin and flexible. It's more a matter of where your RO system is and where it is needed. A storage tank might be something of a space problem, but you have incoming water pressure to help position the tank where it might fit. Hooking it up would be easy too. Best bet might be to run it to a toilet, that'll use it up rather fast and could be easier to keep separate from the main line where it might be illegal to connect without precautions. All the substances in the concentrate are already in the water but municipalities might get testy.

Using hot top water is using energy, not sure if your less is meant for time. Conceivably your water heater might use less energy than the distiller but if you have a traditional tank water heater, probably not.
 
beren said:
Or from an electric fan, like mine has. I wasn’t talking about a pot still. Sure some electricity is dirty some is from solar or wind. If you’re in an area with severe drought you’re probably not watering your plants very often nor would I want a barrel full of old water to use for a washing dishes clean, and plumbing it for a washer? Really? Neither solution is perfect but for total cost per gallon when I looked distillation was far cheaper. Single purchase and no filters to ever buy vs an expensive setup, expensive filters, and 20% efficiently or worse (1gal ro with 4gal waste). My old distiller uses 580w to distill 1gal in about 5h. Less if I use hot tap water. There’s downsides to each method and hidden costs whether it’s environmental or labor or consumables.
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$100 RO system I linked to comes with extra filters and if the system is only being used for brewing, you'll only end up replacing the prefilters about once per year ($15), if that and about 3 years on the membrane ($25). Even running my system on low well pressure (45psi) I was getting 1 gallon of RO for 3 gallons of waste and I tightened that up with a booster pump (now only 2.25g of waste).

The other factor is that I use RO for drinking, for irons, for the fridge ice maker, for topping off the aquarium.
 
Deadalus said:
As far as fishing lines through a wall, 1/4" is about as easy as it gets, it's on the level of speaker wire being thin and flexible. It's more a matter of where your RO system is and where it is needed. A storage tank might be something of a space problem, but you have incoming water pressure to help position the tank where it might fit. Hooking it up would be easy too. Best bet might be to run it to a toilet, that'll use it up rather fast and could be easier to keep separate from the main line where it might be illegal to connect without precautions. All the substances in the concentrate are already in the water but municipalities might get testy.

Using hot top water is using energy, not sure if your less is meant for time. Conceivably your water heater might use less energy than the distiller but if you have a traditional tank water heater, probably not.
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...and before somebody rips a huge hole in their second+ floor, the floor would need to support ~8lbs x number of gallons for the tank. Gravity would be helpful though for dispensing, otherwise you might need a pump.
 
beren said:
RO wastes a lot of water so for a similar price or less you could get an electric distiller. Some areas are heavily affected by drought and it makes a difference.for water T
Click to expand...
I did a measurement a few weeks ago. For every gallon of RO I get about 2.25 gallons of waste. For what I pay for water that amounts to about 25 cents per batch of waste (16 gallons).
 
Cost effective, and as I have mentioned here and in other posts, for those of us that live in water-wise areas, repurposing the waste water from an RO/cooling system is a basic good.
 
day_trippr said:
At 100 hours and 58 kilowatts ($8.12 here) I don't see such a device as a solution for brewing liquor for my 10 gallon batches.
A total non-starter unless one is brewing single gallon batches, imo...
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I have a 99% efficient tankless water heater, and I use 5gal water jugs to dump the distilled water into. I don't brew as often as I'd like, but I started to distill the water at my office and can get 15 gal/week in cooler weather when the added heat in the room is welcome. The tap water there is gross so clean water is even better.

When I looked at RO systems last year it seemed the cheapest was like $225. $100 is not a bad price.
 
Does the system that Bobby linked removed chloramines? It's my understanding that having 2 carbon pre-filters would remove chloramines due to the increased contact time.
 
moto125 said:
Does the system that Bobby linked removed chloramines? It's my understanding that having 2 carbon pre-filters would remove chloramines due to the increased contact time.
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Most 4-5 stage RO systems ship with one sediment, one GAC and one Carbon Block. At the flow rates of residential membranes, it looks like that's enough standard activated carbon to do the job but you can augment that in a few ways.

Swap out the sediment filter for another GAC to increase total carbon.
Swap out the middle one for a Aries AF-10-1053 Catalytic Carbon Filter
Do neither and put a tiny pinch of Potassium Metabisulfite in the water afterwards.
 
Standard GAC is a carryover from the old days and if a new system comes with a GAC filter I'd look to another vendor. GAC is included because it is very inexpensive for the vendor and users don't know any better. CGAC is a different story. But you're better off going with two carbon blocks, one or more specifically made for chloramines: Chloraguard Chloramine Carbon Block - Buckeye Hydro
 

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