@Jag75 @Nate R The last batch I kegged, I had the elbow below the valve instead of above it. I bought a 2" triclamp/1/2" barb with a piece of 2ft silicone hosing.
I only dumped once, which was day 12-14, can't remember. It was an IPA with 6oz of dry hops. I didn't cold crash (not able to), so when I was ready to keg............
transferred the beer to kegs (scales are your friend)
dumped trub to a gallon pitcher (about 1/2 gallon amount)
"harvested" yeast to a pint jar. Pretty much, when the sediment went from peanut butter to creamy looking, I filled a sanitized pint mason jar. There was still some trub in there, but it's US-05 so, not a crucial save.
I cracked my valve about 1-2 notches. With the exception of my beer line clogging up with hop debris, I think I'm going to go the valve on top route from here on out. Obviously, the next batch I'll try to do some short multiple dumps vs waiting til kegging. I should have dumped first before doing any racking to my kegs. That would have eliminated my clogged disconnect issue.
Even though I didn't wait a lot longer, I wonder if "cold crashing" at a higher temp kept the sediment from really compacting to where it stalled. I don't know if it was that or if I had the valve above the elbow. This is only the second batch I've done in mine. I've also wondered if it would be better to have a reducer of some sorts between the elbow and barb. That way there's more of a taper going from the conical to the hose vs 2" straight to 1/2 like with the barb.
Just thought I'd share my experience thus far in case it helps.
Keep these coming. I'd be interested in a picture from the inside after you are done racking kegs and done final dump but before you hose it down. I am wondering if the 2 inch plumbing on the bottom of the tank allows for a more even distribution of the dump and perhaps makes punching through less likely.