LLBeanJ
Well-Known Member
I would think the ball valve would probably work, but yeah, the needle would give more precise control.
I just called The Bayou, and they said that the 5235 Brass orifice which is 3/8" M Flare x 1/4" MNPT fits both the BG10 and BG14 burners. There is conflicting info on the web, and I wouldn't say the guy on the phone gave me 100% confidence in what he was saying...
Yes, I do have the SQ14with the BG12 burner. The guy in my LHBS sold me the loose orifice, so I never saw its specs.
I did find an 1/8" Male NPT with #61 gas orifice x 3/8" here. (look towards the bottom) Anyone know what #61 means? Is this for natural gas?
Not sure, but from the picture it looks very small, which means you can most likely drill it out yourself to Ø.125 and be good to go for NG. I noticed in the description you can specify a custom orifice size. You might want to ask them about it.
What orifice size are we talking for natural gas? I read that it could vary?
.125 for the banjo burner, but I guess I'm not sure for the hurricane. Did you see my update to my previous post? That source you linked seems knowledgeable, you might want to give them a call or email and tell them what you are trying to do and see what they recommend.
Here is a pic of the two orifices for the Blichmann Floor (and BC Banjo) burner:
On the left, 1/4" NPT x 3/8" flare x Ø.039" (#61) orifice for propane
On the right, 1/4" NPT x 3/8" flare x Ø.125" orifice for NG
My valve arrived and everything seems to fit well. The only issue that I am seeing now is the orifice nipple may not be quite long enough.
If i screw it in all the way and make it tight, there's not enough space to fit the supply line on.
Right now about 1/2 of the threads are screwed into the burner body but it's not exactly tight.
What are the odds of gas escaping from the threads between the burner and valve and igniting in an undesirable location? I'm debating whether or not to buy a 1" or so extension to bring the valve out a little so that it will tighten up and allow room for the supply hose nut.
I'll post photos of the burner in action later this evening when the sun sets.
A bit of teflon tape or pipe dope will solve that issue without need for an extension.
Here's a photo at night with the needle valve wide open. I was able to adjust the air to get a fairly nice blue flame that rises up in the shape of a cone to a height of about 6".
How does this flame look? Do you think that the orifice needs to be opened up a little more?
That flame looks great. I agree with Gila on the Teflon tape suggestion.
Did you try heating water yet? Natural Gas burners generally don't "roar" - its one of the benefits.
I agree you need to test it. That flame look perfect to me. As FuriousE stated, NG does not roar like propane does, rather it's very quiet. This is due to NG being low pressure and LPG being high pressure.
I know there is stuff on the web about how and what size to drill out the orifice.
Here's a couple for low pressure LPG and Natural Gas:
http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/lowp_chrt.html
http://www.hvacredu.net/gas-codes/module2/Gas Orifice Capacity Chart.pdf
and one for high pressure LPG:
http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/highp_chart.html
Also, anyone know a good source for needle valve fitting between 3/8 female flare hose and 1/8 or 1/4 MPT going into orifice?
Also, anyone know a good source for needle valve fitting between 3/8 female flare hose and 1/8 or 1/4 MPT going into orifice?
I read it the same way, dependent on supply WC. I must confess I don't know squat and haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn Express for many moons.I suppose it would be best to know the W/C coming out of my supply line.
I believe that the BG12 produces 55k BTU's when operated on propane. Since NG produces 15% BTU's compared to propane, we are looking at 46,750 BTU's.
Depending on supply pressure, according to these charts I should have a hole somewhere between roughly 0.11"-0.13. Right now my hole is measuring 0.08". This give a little wiggle room.
Am looking using the chart correctly?
This one.Are you looking for one like the one that I purchased?
This one.
I have this orifice:
http://www.agrisupply.com/Orifice-For-Asc/p/72051/
On this burner:
http://www.agrisupply.com/cast-iron-burner/p/64494/
That needle valve is the one supplied in the Blichmann NG conversion kit for the Floor Burner, which uses the same cast burner that you linked.
Or for about the same price ($19.95 including shipping) you can get this one from tejassmokers.com - model number CVO250 I believe.
I'm not sure if one is better than the other.
I have a SQ14 and just realized there's a natural gas hookup on the corner of my deck. Can anybody who's converted their SQ14 confirm what parts they used, and if it required any drilling? There's a lot of suggestions in this thread (and elsewhere), but nothing that says "I bought these parts, hooked them up, and everything is good". (Or conversely, that you tried some stuff and it didn't work out.)
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