Will this work as a controller?

[rodduley]

I have been studying the electrical brewing process and would like to thank all of you who conribute to help nubies like me. I am not that electrically inclined (please don't flame me) and although I would like to build a controller I recently ran across this Clepco temperature controller and heating element. The element is teflon which I know would not work well for brewing but I wanted to get advice to see if the heating element could be replaced with something like a 5000w hot water element. These controllers are apparently used in the finishing industry and this one was never used so I picked it up hoping it might be a "plug and play" control panel for me. I know it should be also connected to GFI. It looks like is has a "J" type thermocoupler but may be able to accept an RTD style also. These things go for several hundred dollars on e-bay. Can somebody please tell me if I might be able to configure it for a HLT or kettle or am I "barking up the wrong tree"? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.









Thanks!

 

[rodduley]

Bump

Calling all electrical guru's...just wanted sombody to tell me if this thing has any use in the brewing process. Does anybody even know exactly what it is and what it is used for? I got it on the cheap and thought it might save me some time and money having not to build a controller. I'll set it out with the trash on Wednesday if someone indicates that where it belongs. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[wubears71]

I took a look at it briefly and based on the wiring diagraming uses a 480v heater which is not residential service.

 

[rodduley]

Thanks Tim for taking a look at this. I guess I'll place it in the trash can for pick-up tomorrow. Oh well thought I might have lucked out.

 

[P-J]

Thanks Tim for taking a look at this. I guess I'll place it in the trash can for pick-up tomorrow. Oh well thought I might have lucked out.

Don't trash it.

Based on some of the images you posted - one says that it is 240V power input.

It might just work out very well for you.

P-J

 

[wubears71]

Don't trash it.

Based on some of the images you posted - one says that it is 240V power input.

It might just work out very well for you.

P-J

Dang. I missed that tight there on the front of the unit. Good catch. I just looked at the wiring diagram and saw 480 but didn't look much closer once I saw that.

 

[ChuckO]

Your wiring diagram shows a step down transformer to 120 volts before all of the electronics and for the coil of the power contactor for the heating elements. You should be able to eliminate that and possibly replace the contactor with an SSR to control any heating element that you want.

 

[rodduley]

Thanks guys. This is the feedback I was hoping to get. Chucko/PJ is it possible to "mark-up" what you suggested? I'll see if my brother-inlaw could make a modification.

Thanks again
Rod

 

[P-J]

I believe the unit is already set up for 240V power and is ready to go as is. I think all you need is a plug for the power input cable. It'll be a 3 prong 30A-240V plug as the cable end appears to be a 3 wire cord.

 

[rodduley]

Chucko commented :
"Your wiring diagram shows a step down transformer to 120 volts before all of the electronics and for the coil of the power contactor for the heating elements. You should be able to eliminate that and possibly replace the contactor with an SSR to control any heating element that you want."

By the way the teflon heating element that is directly attached to this unit is rated 2000W if that makes a difference. I was hoping to just remove it and wire the controller to a higher rated 4500W hot water heater element for a HLT. Would it go "as is" or should the recommendations that Chucko suggested be implemented? If you think I should eliminate a stepdown transformer could sombody please give me a simple diagram of suggested mods.

It is indeed a three wire power cord

Thanks again guys...you are the reason this forum is so awesome!!!!

 

[P-J]

You say it is a 2000W element. What is the voltage rating of it?

The wiring diagram "clepcodiagram.jpg" is a universal diagram. That is not how your unit is wired. I think you need to open the unit and find out exactly how it is wired. At this point all we are doing is guessing.

Help us help you.

 

[rodduley]

I'll do that when I get home this evening. Stay tuned.

Thanks for hanging with me on this one guys!

 

[rodduley]

Tried to take a pic but camera is acting up.There is a sticker ontop of the heating element the indicates:

KW = 2
Volts = 230
PH = 1
AMPS = 8.7

I dont know if this is enough to go by?

Again,thanks for bearing with me guy's

 

[P-J]

Tried to take a pic but camera is acting up.There is a sticker ontop of the heating element the indicates:

KW = 2
Volts = 230
PH = 1
AMPS = 8.7

I dont know if this is enough to go by?

Again,thanks for bearing with me guy's

Ok. The controller is wired for 240V operation as I suspected.

Now you just need to buy the plug for it. You can probably use the outlet for your dryer - depending on how that is set up.

 

[rodduley]

OK, so the controller is wired for 240V operation. This means I can add the proper plug on the power side (connected to GFI of course) and remove the existing teflon heater element and replace it with a hot water element attached to the HLT? Am I limited to any specfic wattage on the element?

 

[wubears71]

You will more than likely be limited to a 2000 watt element unless the internal wiring and components are designed to handle a larger Amp Draw. Since the unit was only designed for a 2000 watt element, the wire gauge is probably sized to handle the 8.7 Amp element. The only way to know for sure is to inspect all wiring and all components to see what they are rated for. Post a pic of the internals and it may be obvious to tell from the pictures.

 

[rodduley]

Sorry for the delay and one day I will learnhow to post pics a little better. Here are some images of the inside of the controller and some of the wiring. I these do not help please let me know if another angle work be preferable.








Thanks for the help!

 

[wubears71]

Great pics. the relay used to power the heating element is rated at 30 amps, so it should be able to handle up to a 5500 watt heater. I cannot tell for certain, but the wiring looks like it is either 10 AWG or 12 AWG. Take a look at the wiring going to/from the relay (3100-30U9999CY) and see if it says 10 AWG or 12 AWG on it. If it says 10 AWG, you are good to go, you can add up to a 5500 watt heating element. If it says 12 AWG, you can safely add up to a 3500 Watt heating element. However, it will be pretty easy to swap out the wiring for 10 AWG wiring.

One thing I'm a bit confused on is the Neutral wiring. It looks like 2 smaller gauge wires were used for the neutral coming into the unit. I went back to confirm with the original wiring diagram but it is no longer accessible - "forbidden". Can you post that back up?

Things are looking good here for you.

 

[rodduley]

Thanks for taking a look Tim. I'll repost the diagram when I get home tonight. I'm not a total idiot (just bordering on one) but while I was posting these pics this morning I thought I would clean out the others...DOH! I did not think about the links.

Thanks again

 

[rodduley]

Just fixed the original photos. looking forward to reply. I'll also try to check the wire size. also PJ stated "The wiring diagram "clepcodiagram.jpg" is a universal diagram. That is not how your unit is wired." Hopefully this will work out.

Thanks

 

[wubears71]

Thanks. The only part I'm not comfortable with is the red Wires going to the "heater thermofuse". Maybe someone else can jump in.

 

[rodduley]

Tim, I'm not sure but I tried contacting Clepco to pose a few questions about this unit and I believe sombody mentioned that the thermo fuse was designed to cut off at a certain temperature. Not sure what temp it was but could this be removed/bypassed?

By the way you rerally responed quickly

Thanks

 

[wubears71]

It looks like you can just jumper it. So yes it can be bypassed.

 

[BigSally]

If you cant get the wire gauge issue corrected then you could always use the output to the heater to actuate a contactor of the appropriate amperage as has been previously alluded tr something.