Flashing/grommets in side of refrigerator for beer and gas line?

[Gadjobrinus]

OK, I know this is really lame. Been years since I drilled a hole in any fridge but now that I got my new child:

-I want to mount the engine next to the fridge, feeding a 3/8" beer line of the corny through the fridge wall to 1/2" braided hose, which connects to the engine. I'd also like to keep the CO2 on a breather outside the fridge now as well. I know I could foam the holes closed but I'd like to have some play to draw the lines in or out depending on any changes to my engine configuration (e.g., using a true cask breather v. the DIY low propane regulator as a "breather" I have set up now).

What do you guys use to close up the hole and protect your hoses from getting sliced up by the sharp edges of your fridge wall, while allowing some play in your lines?

 

[day_trippr]

I use SS 1/4" MFL-MFL bulkheads to go through the back walls of my three fridges.

https://www.chicompany.net/flare-fittings-c-375_19_220_285/bulkhead-adapter-shank-long-p-2263.html

You can put swivel nuts for line IDs up to at least 3/8" on these...

https://www.amazon.com/Fittings-HOZQ8-108-Swivel-Nut-Barb/dp/B006FHRV2C

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

I use SS 1/4" MFL-MFL bulkheads to go through the back walls of my three fridges.

View attachment 847782

https://www.chicompany.net/flare-fittings-c-375_19_220_285/bulkhead-adapter-shank-long-p-2263.html

You can put swivel nuts for line IDs up to at least 3/8" on these...

https://www.amazon.com/Fittings-HOZQ8-108-Swivel-Nut-Barb/dp/B006FHRV2C

Cheers!

Thanks man. Is there an issue with difficulty drawing through an engine when it gets down to the 1/4" flare orifice?

 

[day_trippr]

Valid question that I can't answer from experience. fwiw, a bit of looking about shows some recommendations to not use 1/2" tubing on the engine output but instead stick with 3/8" for both the in and out, which somewhat lessens the ID mismatch. But I'm still not seeing SS bulkheads with larger IDs that could maintain a consistent ID.

An alternative would be to stick a segment of rigid tubing (like PVC) through the fridge wall large enough to accommodate and protect your choice of beer tubing...

Cheers!

 

[Gadjobrinus]

Valid question that I can't answer from experience. fwiw, a bit of looking about shows some recommendations to not use 1/2" tubing on the engine output but instead stick with 3/8" for both the in and out, which somewhat lessens the ID mismatch. But I'm still not seeing SS bulkheads with larger IDs that could maintain a consistent ID.

An alternative would be to stick a segment of rigid tubing (like PVC) through the fridge wall large enough to accommodate and protect your choice of beer tubing...

Cheers!

Thanks. One problem I see with the 3/8" to the engine is that the engine tail is 3/4" bsp and 1/2" hose barb. It could be reduced with a John Guest or something like that, so probably not a big deal.

 

[Deadalus]

I just built a smaller jockey box and used 8mm OD evabarrier throughout. I had planned on using Duotight bulkheads through the cooler wall but the came up short. So instead I went the grommet route. Rather than guess what would be the perfect grommet size, I bought a boxed assortment. From that, I found the tightest fitting grommet and used a caliper to get an exact read on the outside diameter of the inner grommet ring. I had previously bought a set of bits from Harbor Freight that had some really fine spacing between bit sizes and this allowed for a really tight fit. The grommets were tight to get in but they seated properly after working the grommet a little bit going around it in a circle on both sides.

Now I didn't place the faucets way high and the beer line is a little lower than I would have liked so I will see if it seeps water if up that high but extremely little to almost no air exchange is going to happen. The Nukatap minis have a wall mount kit and I considered the screws and siliconing those but I didn't think through completely the inner beer line as I used shanks on my other jockey box.

 

[marc1]

Valid question that I can't answer from experience. fwiw, a bit of looking about shows some recommendations to not use 1/2" tubing on the engine output but instead stick with 3/8" for both the in and out, which somewhat lessens the ID mismatch. But I'm still not seeing SS bulkheads with larger IDs that could maintain a consistent ID.

An alternative would be to stick a segment of rigid tubing (like PVC) through the fridge wall large enough to accommodate and protect your choice of beer tubing...

Cheers!

I have a piece of PVC through the side of my keg fridge, secured in place with silicone caulk. It is for all the gas lines going in, and there isn't that much extra room for air to leak out. I stuffed some tissue in around the tubing to provide fill-in for the remaining small gap.

 

[Climb]

Route your CO2 through the water intake that goes to the ice maker in the freezer compartment. I know you said you have a fridge and that my recommendation only works if you have a fridge/freezer combination. Good luck.

 

[Spartan1979]

I used rubber grommets for the gas lines in my kegerator, but just on the metal side. Just be sure to use the right size drill. Don't ask me why I mentioned that!

 

[DuncB]

I used the rubber fittings that go in the lids of fermenters that make the bubbler / airlock " airtight", used a little bit of silicone oil on the inside of each one to help the tubes slide.

 

[Deadalus]

I used the rubber fittings that go in the lids of fermenters that make the bubbler / airlock " airtight", used a little bit of silicone oil on the inside of each one to help the tubes slide.

=Grommet.

 

[DuncB]

=Grommet.

Yes

 

[Brewdog80]

I 3d printed sets of bulkhead fittings I could force my hoses through. Mainly just to protect the hose and make it looks nicer