DrinknBuddy
Active Member
Good luck with the career change. I'd drink all the profits I went back to BIAB and used my Countertop Brutus knowledge to build this. I did a Boddington this last weekend and got 84% efficiency.
Good luck with the career change. I'd drink all the profits I went back to BIAB and used my Countertop Brutus knowledge to build this. I did a Boddington this last weekend and got 84% efficiency.
Interesting setup! Any reason why you went with the BIAB approach? Just easier?
I just got mine on Amazon a few weeks ago for 160 or so. I think most places sell it for around the same price
Hi Guys,
I'm new to the forum and I'm in the process of building a Countertop Brutus 20 that can support 5 gallon batches. Here's my predicament: I only have access to 120V power. I do have access to a new gas stove that I will boil and heat water on which justifies the 5 gallon batch sizes. I'll utilize the element to support recirculating mash temps.
I'm brewing with a 10 gallon kettle and 10 gallon MLT.
I want to future-proof my build so that I can easily convert to 240V when I'm at a new place. I'm think about using one 5500W element (at 1/4 power) running it at 120V now and building my control panel equipped to handle the switch to 240V in the future.
My question is, what do I need to change from jkarp's original build in order to run it at 120V while building all components so that it's easy to switch to 240v? I've searched a ton of these threads and haven't found a solution yet, maybe I'm missing something obvious?
Another dumb question, if I built a 240V control panel could one easily run it at 120V?
Appreciate your help!
Nealm,
Thanks for the response. How long does it take you boil? Do you run your pump off of your control panel or is it manually controlled off of a separate circuit?
You run a 30A breaker (Man those aren't cheap!) from your 20A plug? Sorry for my inexperience but what does this do for your setup? (I'm thinking that you don't have a GFCI 120V plug?)
Fortunately, our stove has heavy duty cast iron grates that will hold an elephant.
I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort side to coolant side) which is likely due to my poor craftsmanship (homemade unit). I'm looking at 2 options moving forward.
I like the idea of the whirlpool IC as I already whirlpool with the current setup; and I have seen others mentioning that they used an IC in their CB20 builds. I'm struggling with how to implement an IC with the heating element protruding into the boil kettle. Do I set the IC into the kettle, work the element between the coils and leave in place (a la HERMS) during the entire operation? Do I use a hook to latch the IC to the lip of the kettle top, so as to suspend the IC above the heating element in the kettle? Do others just let the IC rest atop the heating element?
- Repair the existing, or purchase a new CFC
- Convert to a whirlpool immersion chiller setup
For those implementing the CFC; is there a reason to flow back to the kettle? It seems a bit odd to cool a small portion of wort in the CFC then send it back to a much larger volume of wort. Any CFC users chill in a single pass format directly into the fermenter?
I went all around on my chilling options (plate, hose/copper CFC, Chillzilla, IC) with my CB20 and ended up going with a good old immersion chiller. I would suggest you consider the same. They are just easier and more sanitary in my opinion. Once you cut the power you can drop in the IC without issue. Measure your depth and check out Jaded Brewing. Those chill really fast.
https://jadedbrewing.com/collections/frontpage/products/mantis
HB, glad to hear the IC works well with the system. Just to be clear, you simply set the IC in the boil kettle on top of the element after you kill the power? No issue with weight on the element, or loss of efficiency from the IC not reaching the bottom? I'll certainly check out Jaded. Thanks for the input!
I have not built one of these, (yet), but in my outdoor system, I chill in a single pass using a cfc during the winter. Recirculating is only necessary for me during the warmer months.I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort side to coolant side) which is likely due to my poor craftsmanship (homemade unit). I'm looking at 2 options moving forward.
I like the idea of the whirlpool IC as I already whirlpool with the current setup; and I have seen others mentioning that they used an IC in their CB20 builds. I'm struggling with how to implement an IC with the heating element protruding into the boil kettle. Do I set the IC into the kettle, work the element between the coils and leave in place (a la HERMS) during the entire operation? Do I use a hook to latch the IC to the lip of the kettle top, so as to suspend the IC above the heating element in the kettle? Do others just let the IC rest atop the heating element?
- Repair the existing, or purchase a new CFC
- Convert to a whirlpool immersion chiller setup
For those implementing the CFC; is there a reason to flow back to the kettle? It seems a bit odd to cool a small portion of wort in the CFC then send it back to a much larger volume of wort. Any CFC users chill in a single pass format directly into the fermenter?
I have not built one of these, (yet), but in my outdoor system, I chill in a single pass using a cfc during the winter. Recirculating is only necessary for me during the warmer months.
As far as your homemade chiller, are you certain you have a leak? Because when heat up a chiller by running something hot through it, it pushes any liquid in the other cavity out. Like dropping an immersion chiller in hot wort, it will force any leftover water in the coils out.
I don't see how it can happen at the TEE if you made it correctly. Post a pictureI hadn't used the CFC in a few years so I assume the system to be dry. I only had the wort (internal) line connect, no cooling water. I was simply recirculating ~110F water and there was quite a bit of water dripping out of the hose connecting the outer (cooling) line. I probably collected a pint of water. I stopped flow and blew the liquid out of the internal line. I then removed the hose feeding the cooling line so I could like directly into the copper tee. I turned the flow back on and within minutes I saw water pooling in the outer line. I'm pretty convinced that water is crossing over from the inner line to the outer line. The only real place for that to happen is at the tee. It is likely my second-rate soldering job on the copper pipe. Regardless of which route I go I'll probably invest the time in trying to sweat the pipe again just to see if it solves the problem.
I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort side to coolant side) which is likely due to my poor craftsmanship (homemade unit). I'm looking at 2 options moving forward.
I like the idea of the whirlpool IC as I already whirlpool with the current setup; and I have seen others mentioning that they used an IC in their CB20 builds. I'm struggling with how to implement an IC with the heating element protruding into the boil kettle. Do I set the IC into the kettle, work the element between the coils and leave in place (a la HERMS) during the entire operation? Do I use a hook to latch the IC to the lip of the kettle top, so as to suspend the IC above the heating element in the kettle? Do others just let the IC rest atop the heating element?
- Repair the existing, or purchase a new CFC
- Convert to a whirlpool immersion chiller setup
For those implementing the CFC; is there a reason to flow back to the kettle? It seems a bit odd to cool a small portion of wort in the CFC then send it back to a much larger volume of wort. Any CFC users chill in a single pass format directly into the fermenter?
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