What size is that? Looks great.
The big issue I had when looking into doing the same was finding latches that would work as you are not latching straight across as many are designed to do. I had a welder fabricate some latches and he came up with a rather nice design.
I am sure my solution is not perfect, but it seals really well and the double hindge pulls down the lid nicely. if you dont secure the latches, they pop back open. (gonna replace those little pieces of wire with pins that wont fall out)
Your post was educational and informative... Yes, until the point where you felt the need to pointlessly bad mouth many Brewers for their equipment preference. Apparently I am very cheap and regularly lie through my teeth when I recommend the bayou pot that I use and find works very well.
Although my opinion is probably invalid since I've actually used it as a brew kettle...
Giving this bad boy a BUMP!
I'd posted something in the beginner's forum about fermenting in the boil kettle, and a poster pointed me here. AWESOME THREAD! JUST what I had in mind.
QUESTION: has anyone tried just weighing down the lid with something heavy, rather than bothering with all the clamps? Especially since it seems like some folks have been doing it with no silicone seal OR clamps... I was thinking about building one up with the silicone seal, then just using a brick or two (maybe wrap them in tape or plastic to keep them from scratching the lid) on top of the lid? There should still be plenty of room for the airlock/blowoff.
Again, thanks for the epic thread!
Ike
View attachment 260400 here is a fermenter I made from a keg that had it's base crushed. Cut off the base, welded on an 8" tri clover ferrule for easy cleaning.
View attachment 260400 here is a fermenter I made from a keg that had it's base crushed. Cut off the base, welded on an 8" tri clover ferrule for easy cleaning.
I don't have a problem moving when empty. There is a 2" tri clover clamp and cap on the bottom. I put it outside, or over a drain in the basement and flush and clean it. With the 8" opening I can reach in and scrub out any residue. There is a 3/4" tube on the top for a vent, 1/2" tube for transfer and 3/8" with a valve for CO2 to push beer out to kegs. I don't open it till beer is transferred.
You might be able to down to a 4", even if you can't get your arm all the way in you could get a brush in to clean it, or soak with pbw flush and rinse. The stainless cleans pretty easy if done right away.
I thought that as well, but 6" is pretty cheap too if you get it from the right place. I've found that the price goes up exponentially larger than 6".
Where is the right place ?
I'm about to do this with 4" triclover flanges. FWIW, the opening on a corny keg is 3" x 4". A 4" triclover flange is larger.
I have big arms. I can get up to my bicep through the 4" triclover. I have to stop at my forearm on the corny kegs. I'd love to have 6" ports, they would rock.
I thought about the stock pots for fermenting and even ordered clips to hold the lids down. But... they won't hold pressure and I need long term, air tight, pressure capable lagering vessels, so I am going with 1/2 and 1/4 barrel Sanke kegs. I want to filter my beer by pushing it with CO2, so that pretty much necessitates the Sanke kegs.
Triclover Port Cost Comparison
4" ferrule (long) $9
4" cap $10.50
4" clamp $10.00
Total $29.50
6" ferrule (long) $20
6" cap $31
6" clamp $28
Total $70
Source: BrewersHardware.com
I like the stainless steel fermentors as well, but I took a slightly different route.
I'm using stainless steel milk cans, and silver soldering tri-clamps onto them.
Large opening, easy to clean, a little pricey, but I think it's worth it.
The only real downside for me is lifting those things full into my chest freezer fermentation device, so I'm looking at building a couple of fermentation chambers to house them.
Third, the link I showed is $175 with free shipping, not the $190 you mentioned. Also the kegs you showed do not include shipping.
View attachment 260400 here is a fermenter I made from a keg that had it's base crushed. Cut off the base, welded on an 8" tri clover ferrule for easy cleaning.
Now that is super cool looking. Why all of the ports though?I like the stainless steel fermentors as well, but I took a slightly different route.
I'm using stainless steel milk cans, and silver soldering tri-clamps onto them.
Large opening, easy to clean, a little pricey, but I think it's worth it.
The only real downside for me is lifting those things full into my chest freezer fermentation device, so I'm looking at building a couple of fermentation chambers to house them.
I like the stainless steel fermentors as well, but I took a slightly different route.
I'm using stainless steel milk cans, and silver soldering tri-clamps onto them.
Large opening, easy to clean, a little pricey, but I think it's worth it.
The only real downside for me is lifting those things full into my chest freezer fermentation device, so I'm looking at building a couple of fermentation chambers to house them.
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