kxavier_23 said:Is there a preference on manufacturers?
I saw a preference before on Lolin
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...evice-for-tilt-hydrometer.664368/post-8728911
The link takes you to the components I am currently running.
kxavier_23 said:Is there a preference on manufacturers?
I saw a preference before on Lolin
Phase 3
3 Instance Main Control Box Build
As I said in Phase 2, I really don’t want to have to open and enter the project box holding the controllers. If I want to flash a D1 Mini, I don’t want to open the box. If a temperature probe goes bad, I don’t want to open the box.
I only have one (1) fermentation cooler, but a second will be added. I also currently have a fridge used to lager (hold Temp at 40F). With an eye to the future, this is a 3 instance build. Two (2) controllers will be held at Beer Constant/Profile and one (1) controller will be at Fridge Constant.
Looking at the module sizes and how I wanted to position the modules, I decided on a 12” x 12” x 6” Junction Box. This box is huge and I thought I made a mistake going with the larger box. As I assembled the control box, for me, this was the perfect size for a 3 instance control box.
Additional (optional) Steps
- Purchase a project box that is large enough to comfortably hold as many Controller Instances as desired
- Cut a piece of Aluminum to fit inside project box to act as a sub-board.
- Place Modules on aluminum and mark mounting hole locations.
- Drill holes in aluminum where mounting holes were marked.
- Add standoffs to mounting holes.
- Determine location of Keystone Plate(s)
- Cut opening to fit Keystone Plate(s)
- Install Keystone Plate(s)
- Determine location of 3 Pin Inlet Power Plug Socket
- Cut opening to fit Socket
- Install Power Plug Socket
- Determine location of 3 Pin Power Socket Panel Receptacle AC125V 15A.
- Cut opening(s) to fit Receptacles
- Install Receptacles
- Determine location of LCD Modules on the Project Box lid
- Cut openings to fit LCD Modules
- Install LCD Modules to the Project Box lid
- Solder the following on the ESP8266 Breakout Board for BrewPi:
- 2-pin Screw Terminal Block
- RJ45 PCB Socket
- 1206 SMD 100uf Capacitor (to C1)
- 0805 SMD 4.7K Resistor (to R1)
- 0805 SMD 10K Resistor (to R2, R3, R4, R5)
- Mosfet SMD (to Q1, Q2)
- Male Pin Headers To LCD, Relay, and JP1 Contacts
- Female Pin Headers to contacts for the D1 Mini.
- Solder Male Pin Headers to the D1 Mini (make certain Male Pins point away from the D1 antenna)
- Secure PS Module, Relay Module, and completed ESP8266 Breakout Board to the standoffs.
- Insert aluminum sub board with attached modules into the project box.
- Run Electrical wires appropriately (I referenced Thorrak’s how to site tinybat.ch to wire accordingly) from the Inlet Socket to the PS. From the PS to the ESP Breakout Board. From the Power Receptacles to the Relays, and all the points/connections in between.
- Install the USB and RJ45 Keystone Inserts into the Keystone Plate(s)
- Run Ethernet Patch Cable from RJ45 Keystone Insert to RJ45 Socket on the ESB Breakout Board.
- Connect D1 Mini to the ESB Breakout Board
- Run USB Patch Cord from USB Keystone Insert to D1 Mini.
- Connect Female to Female DuPont connectors appropriately from the ESB Breakout Board to the 2 Channel Relay.
- Connect Female to Female DuPont connectors appropriately from the ESB Breakout Board to the LCD Module.
- Added handle to top of case
- Construct/install wood frame to trim around LCD Screen
- Ran Trim Lok edge trim around the Aluminum sub-boards (not only to protect skin and wires from getting cut, but if measured and cut properly, acts as a friction mount and holds the sub-boards in place to the project box)
- On the Power Supply Modules.
- Desoldered and removed inlet power connectors
- Soldered in more robust 2-Pin Screw Terminals
- Used Female DuPont connectors to open wire ends to connect PS to ESB Breakout Board.
- Used shims with the 3 Pin Receptacles to get a snugger fit
- Had to adjust LCD contrast using the potentiometer on the back of the LCD Screen
- Added labels to identify LCD Screens, Inputs, and Outputs.
View attachment 623557 View attachment 623559 View attachment 623561 View attachment 623563 View attachment 623564 View attachment 623566 View attachment 623567 View attachment 623568 View attachment 623569 View attachment 623570
Phase 4
Controller Flashing/Controller WiFi Connection Set-up/Adding a new Temp Controller
Make life easy on yourself and Flash your D1 Mini’s (or whatever approved device) through Fermentrack. My recommendation, flash the system test first. This will let you know if your wiring, probes, and general set-up is in working order. Once the test is complete, flash with the appropriate version of BrewPi.
The next step is to connect your D1 Mini (or whatever Approved device) to your network. I feel like a heel, but this step stymied me. When you first power up your D1 Mini (either through USB or 5v PS) it will broadcast an Access Point (AP) for about 5 minutes. During this 5 minutes, you want to use your smart phone, tablet, computer, or whatever you have to connect to the AP. When you connect, you will set the WiFi. Locate your network SSID, type in the network password, and connect. You’re D1 Mini is now connected to your network and you can work through Fermentrack to add a new temp controller.
kxavier_23 said:I did, thanks though.
Your build was my inspiration
I still need to add the TiltBridge. Wired, not mounted yet.
Hoping this is a good place to ask; but did you have any issues with flashing/setting up your tiltbridge TFT variant? I'm attempting to flash it the ESP32 board with TFT via Fementrack, and it'll finish. Then I don't get anything on the screen, and there's no TiltBridge WiFi to connect to either. The OLED has had the best success for me so far.
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