It's not super clear, but what I think I see is post off and flare on for transfer. When transfer is done it's flare off and post back on.Am I missing something?
It's not super clear, but what I think I see is post off and flare on for transfer. When transfer is done it's flare off and post back on.Am I missing something?
See post #35. I'm just using the flare instead of the post/poppet and QD for filling kegs from the fermenter. I'm hoping to avoid clogging from dry hop remains and avoid O2 exposure. When keg is full, the beer is not yet carbonated but has CO2 headspace. At that point, I'll simply swap the flare to the post/poppet, cold crash and force carb.Am I missing something? If you take the keg post off and put a flare on it, it won't hold CO2 in the behinning. And if you want to tap it, a keg post is missing.
CorrectIt's not super clear, but what I think I see is post off and flare on for transfer. When transfer is done it's flare off and post back on.
I've used this for years. It works perfect except when dry hopping. I don't dry hop much but I was just hoping for a simple solution.What does this racking arm look like? Maybe you should try a hop stopper or something?
Ok yes but as soon as you remove the keg post to put the flare fitting on, you are introducing oxygen from the atmosphere to the keg.See post #35. I'm just using the flare instead of the post/poppet and QD for filling kegs from the fermenter. I'm hoping to avoid clogging from dry hop remains and avoid O2 exposure. When keg is full, the beer is not yet carbonated but has CO2 headspace. At that point, I'll simply swap the flare to the post/poppet, cold crash and force carb.
I should not have used the term 'pressure transfer'. I'm just pushing the beer from the fermenter to the keg using CO2. The push speeds up the process and is needed when the beer level in the fermenter gets below the racking arm port in the side of the fermenter.
I have one in my BK and several in kegs where they work fine. I'm not sure about how it might handle the yeast cake but if elevated off the floor a little that would most likely avoid any potential issues. @Broken Crow has made one cheaply.I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.
Thanks for the mention! here it is;I have one in my BK and several in kegs where they work fine. I'm not sure about how it might handle the yeast cake but if elevated off the floor a little that would most likely avoid any potential issues. @Broken Crow has made one cheaply.
CO2 is 1.5 times heavier than air. When the keg post is removed, the keg essentially remains filled with CO2 just no longer under pressure. As the keg is filled from the bottom up, the CO2 headspace is vented via the open pressure relief valve in the lid. When the keg is filled with 5 gallons, the headspace is still CO2. When I switch back to the keg post, I put the keg on CO2 via the gas in post and burp the PRV a few times to ensure headspace is CO2 and lid is fully seated. I have no test results but I have to believe any O2 intrusion is insignificant. Besides, it's just beer.Ok yes but as soon as you remove the keg post to put the flare fitting on, you are introducing oxygen from the atmosphere to the keg.
The Amazon fitting will be here tomorrow. I going to try that first to make sure the process is water tight.I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.
Yeah, um, nope. Gasses mix pretty much instantaneously. Even through a relatively small opening. Purging that headspace as soon as you get the post back on doubtless helps, but you might want to consider doing it more than just "a few times."When the keg post is removed, the keg essentially remains filled with CO2 just no longer under pressure.
Insignificant and just beer are certainly opinions, everyone may have their own. For a stout I'd tend to not worry about it too much, for a NEIPA I put in the extra work. Identical practices on different beers will get you different results. Or, at least probably give you different opinions on how much it matters and if you taste it or not.I have no test results but I have to believe any O2 intrusion is insignificant. Besides, it's just beer.
What about a floating dip tube connected to a hose barb on the racking arm? I should add that I only use whole leaf hops.I bet a hop stopper would work great with that FV. They're on sale right now, but definitely more than ten bucks. Worth it to be able to do a truly closed transfer and avoid swapping connections? That's up to you.
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