it says it's diastatious, which means it might finish pretty dry and it's not done fermenting after just 6 days....
Holy crap are you going to drink that alone or you are a commercial brewer? Otherwise it doesn't makes sense to brew that much at home.
Or you are some 10 feet tall big foot
Any special reason for that?I've been interested in your thread from the first moment you posted it.
Yes and it says medium flocculation. That explains why I have a small sediment. Though I just checked a sediment has grown a little. Its 7 the day and it's still going on. The alcohol tolerance is 14 % abv. Looks like a strong yeast . I am already getting a very strong ester and fruity aromas. Because the PET bucket fermentation isn't as seal tight as a glass carboy. The airlock is working fine. Looks like a good yeast at least its behaving like what the company claims.it says it's diastatious, which means it might finish pretty dry and it's not done fermenting after just 6 days....
Yes and it says medium flocculation. That explains why I have a small sediment. Though I just checked a sediment has grown a little. Its 7 the day and it's still going on. The alcohol tolerance is 14 % abv. Looks like a strong yeast . I am already getting a very strong ester and fruity aromas. Because the PET bucket fermentation isn't as seal tight as a glass carboy. The airlock is working fine. Looks like a good yeast at least its behaving like what the company claims.
View attachment 769682View attachment 769683
https://en.angelyeast.com/products/distilled-spirits-and-biofuels/ale-neer-yeast-cs31.html
Wow $200 is a very unfair price.from that link...(which i'm disapointed won't ship to the us! they want like $200 for a brick of nottingham here! )
This yeast is var. diastaticus.
which means it will ferment more complex sugars...and be sure to give it time, or you might get bottle bombs....(i was about to ask what the og was...but of course you don't know lol, and i'm still waiting on that aquarium hydro to compare to my SG one)
Wow $200 is a very unfair price.
You really like that yeast and want to order?
If yes I am giving you my Chinese suppliers link , the one who supplied me CS31. But be patient from China to reach US it will take some time. And the shipping for US customers is free I think.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKanQxk
Sorry lol my bad.WHOA DUDE! at $9.50 a 12g pack that's $400 for a 500g brick! thanks for trying though! i'm always looking for cost saving measures, that's just not going to be one of them!
If using traditional Yorkshire yeast, which are highly flocculant with a tendency to sit under and on top of the wort, i.e. not suspended in the wort, rousing promotes a better fermentation. By getting them back in the wort. The yeast trough automatically traps healthy yeast too, which makes harvesting the freshest yeast a complete doddle.and whats with the double decker pots? and sanke keg? just don't want flies in it? i mean at this point, just leave it in the boil kettle with the CFC running at the right temp?
Sorry lol my bad.
I thought they are selling you a 12g pack for $200.
If using traditional Yorkshire yeast, which are highly flocculant with a tendency to sit under and on top of the wort, i.e. not suspended in the wort, rousing promotes a better fermentation. By getting them back in the wort. The yeast trough automatically traps healthy yeast too, which makes harvesting the freshest yeast a complete doddle.
View attachment 769687
View attachment 769688
Not necessarily, as recirculation occurs for a minute or so every few hours during active fermentation when CO2 is being released at a high rate.SOOOO, what you're telling me if i hear LodO too many times, this is my blow back at them?
I am planning to use mine in perpetuity ,like ancient peoplefeels like it's their next step...but no when i started brewing it was $1.3 a pack, then i got into yeast harvesting...next thing i know they want 5-6$'s for a pack!
if this doesn't suit you...try wine yeast...i used it and just thought it had kinda of a watery mouth feel to it....
I am planning to use mine in perpetuity ,like ancient people
If not in perpetuity then atleast for the next two batches.
Or will buy cheaper bricks from chinese suppliers. I've seen some for like 3500 RS . But they are in Chinese language so no way to tell they are for ales ,lagers or other info.
They only tell whether its a grain based yeast(beers) or fruit based yeast(wines)
I think a dietary supplement or nutritional yeast for lactating mothers(still useful for me though )i can't tell if this is the supplement or actual yeast? only a $1 a 50g pack though?
https://www.daraz.pk/products/brewe...null__28557__null__0.0__0.0________null__null
edit: never mind, looked it up...and noticed the writing at the bottom....
edit 2: maybe i just don't know how to join your underground here's an interesting one?
https://www.daraz.pk/products/100-i...0e.searchlist.list.52.48e2760abr3o2H&search=1
I think a dietary supplement or nutritional yeast for lactating mothers(still useful for me though )
Again I am lostspeaking of folate, ever since talking to you...i've been craving a huge plate of chickpeas! (or is that another misconception i have?)
Yes exactly. There are brown patches on the lid cover of my plastic bucket and there are bubbles on the sides.but back on the original question, all i have to really offer is what i said....top fermenting is called top fermenting because people didn't even know what it was, and it got brown patches on top....bottom fermenting didn't...at least that's my understanding, if you look at the side of a glass carboy while fermenting, you can see either way the co2 bubbles are all through it.....?
You can actually those brown patches from outside in the pic below.speaking of folate, ever since talking to you...i've been craving a huge plate of chickpeas! (or is that another misconception i have?)
but back on the original question, all i have to really offer is what i said....top fermenting is called top fermenting because people didn't even know what it was, and it got brown patches on top....bottom fermenting didn't...at least that's my understanding, if you look at the side of a glass carboy while fermenting, you can see either way the co2 bubbles are all through it.....?
i once HAD to use lager yeast out of nessecity, because my indoor temps were like 50f...and ale yeast wasn't fermenting...
Again I am lost
Yes exactly. There are brown patches on the lid cover of my plastic bucket and there are bubbles on the sides.
You can actually those brown patches from outside in the pic below.
Ah got it . Those spicy roasted chicken peas are delicacy here . Newbie drinkers use it here as well to avoid harsh alcohol taste.garbanzo beans? with a super duper spicy thick sauce? maybe cumin, turmeric, paprika, etc, etc...and really good!
then i'd think it's top fermenting....usually lager yeast aren't active enough for those signs.....
My room ceiling you mean?surprised it didn't paint your ceiling brown too!
Don't worry its not the diarrhea I am fermenting.it happens!
Don't worry its not the diarrhea I am fermenting.
Man here.well now my good man/woman...are the one that has me confused...
You cannot use wine yeast to ferment (beer) wort because she cannot ferment higher sugars, such as those abundant in beer wort (e.g., maltose, maltotriose). They are left behind, unfermented. The resulting beer will be a cloying, sweet mess with low alcohol.if this doesn't suit you...try wine yeast...
You cannot use wine yeast to ferment (beer) wort because she cannot ferment higher sugars, such as those abundant in beer wort (e.g., maltose, maltotriose). They are left behind, unfermented. The resulting beer will be a cloying, sweet mess with low alcohol.
I suspect @bracconiere didn't have this issue because he ginsu-knife's his wort into a glucose solution using glucoamylase.
So you’re making low calorie or gluten free beer?could be very, very true.
So you’re making low calorie or gluten free beer?
A little bit like a longer piece string the same length?technically it's high ABV for the SAME calories?
A little bit like a longer piece string the same length?
well kinda? but it's actually a shorter string with more calories.....because carbs have 4 calories a gram, but ethanol 7 a gram, but it take more of the carbs to make a gram of ethanol? and it's kinda a wash for actual energy production? but the ethanol has a:
1 g of carbohydrate (assuming maltose) produces 176.04 / 342.30 = 0.5143 g of ethanol. so your 4 cal of carbohydrate becomes 7 cal/g * 0.5143 g = 3.6 cal of ethanol.
Brew on
So after the primary fermentation when added the priming sugar that's what I am seeing in my bottles(image below). Does that krausen at the top meets your ale criteria?it states that ale yeast make friends and clump before floccing? and lager yeast don't get along until after they're done with work? and a microscope isn't that hard core? no more so then a stir plate or something?
you've had better luck with baker's yeast then me then!
So after the primary fermentation when added the priming sugar that's what I am seeing in my bottles(image below). Does that krausen at the top meets your ale criteria?
Here's a video from the head brewery at Harvey's of Lewes, East Sussex, talking about when they got their house yeast from John Smith's brewery in Tadcaster, 67 years ago. In particular, the supply included the instructions to rouse the yeast after 24 hours.If using traditional Yorkshire yeast, which are highly flocculant with a tendency to sit under and on top of the wort, i.e. not suspended in the wort, rousing promotes a better fermentation. By getting them back in the wort. The yeast trough automatically traps healthy yeast too, which makes harvesting the freshest yeast a complete doddle.
View attachment 769687
View attachment 769688
@McMullan - is this your setup? Very cool! One question - I am assuming the starting volume is completely in the sanke? The upper pot seems like it would trap too much yeast and not hold any wort leaving the batch with less yeast to do the work. I guess timing is important.
Yes, the wort, in a traditional Yorkshire square system, is filled to just overflow the 'yeast hole' in the upper vessel (yeast trough). Much of the yeast that get trapped here get washed back into the wort during periodic recirculating of the fermenting wort. With so much yeast trapped at the end of fermentation, the beer is soon ready (almost bright) to be racked off to finish conditioning. Yes, timing is important. Start rousing when fermentation activity peaks, when CO2 limits any noticeable (undesirable) oxidation. Not to be confused with squares used at other traditional English breweries further south (of Yorkshire), and some in the US, of course, where one vessel is used and the yeast benefit from open fermentation in a vessel (wort) with a larger surface-to-volume ratio and what seems to be less vigorous rousing; and where the yeast need to be skimmed off the FV rather than from what more conveniently collects in the Yorkshire square's yeast trough automatically.@McMullan - is this your setup? Very cool! One question - I am assuming the starting volume is completely in the sanke? The upper pot seems like it would trap too much yeast and not hold any wort leaving the batch with less yeast to do the work. I guess timing is important.
Enter your email address to join: