Well it's not for anything brew related, I just thought since you guys are knowledgeable about welding that you would know. I'm trying to add a 2nd bung hole(stainless or mild) on a Stainless downpipe for my car, but I only have a flux lincoln mig with no gas....
I believe turbo's advice was to use an "old" previously ruined sensor.
Ok, when I said muffler shop, I didn't mean your local 2-bit garage. You need to have a GOOD shop deal with this job. Stainless exhaust work is not for the rank amateur.
turbo, with all due respect, you have no idea what you're talking about when it comes to welding an O2 sensor bung. You overheated the fitting and warped it. There is absolutely no need to have a sensor installed during the welding process, and you're likely to ruin the sensor if you do install one.
Use a Nickel base anti-seize compound that's rated up to 2,600 degrees F not that alumimum base crap as your running turbo temps that are up there way beyond the melting temp of aluminum powder in normal anti-seize compounds, hell NA motors are. You want Nickel Anti-Seize made by Loctite, Grainger has it, not cheap but a 8 oz bottle lasts many years.
Sorry a little off topic, "ex A&P here. I'm not going to say "because i'm a engineer" , just what works the past 40 plus years hot rodding. Carl.
Absolutely. I use N5000 myself. Mine happens to be "nuclear" grade, but it does the same thing and worth it's weight in gold when doing exhaust work. That crap you get at Advance/Autozone just does not work well.
Ah cool, I'm a PSEL myself. You know, I took a welding class at the local community college a long time ago. We had a great instructor, he was pretty good with MIG, TIG and SMAW. But gas welding, I could not grasp. I asked lots of questions and burned up lots of gas, but I just always made puddles of crap and all he could tell me was "you've got it too hot." It took some crusty guy out at the airport about an hour to teach me a few "keys" that the other guy wasn't sharing that made it all come together. I can gas weld now, thanks to an old A&P who probably learned back in the 40's. That is a dying art--not many folks do that anymore and even fewer can teach it. Cheers.
Just make sure you use only 308 stick electrodes, because 309,316, etc.. will cause cracking either right after its welded, or a short time after your part goes into service. 308 prevents this cracking, and is the only type stainless steel filler I will use to join mild steel to stainless steel. Now with that said, pipe is another animal all together, and Im not sure what a bung hole is, besides what I think it is, but if your welding on pipe, go to someone that knows what their doing, which others have said.
Just make sure you use only 308 stick electrodes, because 309,316, etc.. will cause cracking either right after its welded, or a short time after your part goes into service. 308 prevents this cracking, and is the only type stainless steel filler I will use to join mild steel to stainless steel. Now with that said, pipe is another animal all together, and Im not sure what a bung hole is, besides what I think it is, but if your welding on pipe, go to someone that knows what their doing, which others have said.
Why use 308 over 309?
Is there something about welding exhaust pipe that I don't know about?
309 is the recommended filler for welding mild steel to stainless.
308 is the filler for 304 stainless.
Blue demon stainless fluxcoreCan I weld stainless steel to mile steel without using any gas? I have a Lincoln Weldpak 100hd. Would stainless wire suffice alone?
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