Recent content by RyPA

Oh i gotcha. Yeah i am wondering if the little tube at the bottom that feeds the ball valve should be angled upwards, or sideways. I also thought about buying a racking cane and using that, so i can begin transferring from the top. That combined with letting the wort rest for a bit after...

I always have supplies on hand so when a keg kicks I can brew without ordering and waiting. I recommend picking up a malt mill and always buy unmilled, which provides a longer shelf life. 95% of my brews are NEIPA so I only stock up on malts that NEIPA's call for: 2-row - Purchase 50 lbs. at a...

Why not just use the swirly arm attachment? It's still essentially just a hose connected to your pump, and assuming you use it while chilling, it's already connected to your pump, sanitized, and ready to go. What do you mean by "BUT, by doing what we're doing we are not getting the clearest...

Also want to add that I am not sure if I am transferring wort from my Anvil Foundry to fermenter the best way possible. What I do is have my whirlpool running, using the Anvil Swirly arm, with the pump on full speed throughout the cooling process. Once I reach the desired temp, I remove the...

Yes, exactly, ands that's where my head was at as well. I am hoping I see significant improvement by dropping yeast before dry hopping.

@moreb33rplz Curious on the same. Is there a difference between: 1. No yeast crash, dry hopping commando and never crashing/transferring And 2. Crashing yeast, dry hopping, crash the hops, transfer My hypothesis is that with #1, you will be drinking hop matter where #2 it would be none or...

I am trying to choose one or the other since i currently have no fermenters, and i do not want to buy 2, right now at least, which brings my post/question. 95% of my brews are NEIPA’s. Is the ability to drop trub more important than allowing cold crash, that decides my fermenter.

Is dumping trub beneficial if i do not plan to harvest yeast? I am debating between the fermzilla all rounder and tri-conical. With my fridge space, i only have room to cold crash in the all rounder. All rounder: no dropping trub, can cold crash Tri conical: can drop trub, cannot cold crash...

Yeah, I agree. My issue may be dry hopping while the yeast is still in suspension, and not the yeast cake at the bottom of the keg.

I am in the process in deciding between continuing to dry hop + serve in the same keg versus getting a standalone fermenter. If I go the fermenter route, I am deciding between the FermZilla tri-conical or All Rounder. I do not harvest yeast so I do not think I need the bottom port included on...

Do you keep the beer at 50F while dry hopping, or do you just get it there to drop yeast and then let it ride back up to room temp after dry hopping? I've been considering adding Ascorbic acid to my toolbox but not sure it's worth it given my kegs last only 30-45 days.

Bringing this thread back from the dead. For those who dry hop commando, what is your process? Do you first cold crash to get the yeast to drop out? What temp do you dry hop at? Do you do a second cold crash to get dry hops to drop before transferring?

I primarily brew NEIPA's and find that they all taste pretty much the same, regardless of what hop varieties I use. They all have a slight hop astringency opposed to a nice juicy softness that NEIPA's are known for. I am wondering if this is a result of the commando hop matter remaining in...

I realized I probably do not need the tri-conical and can instead go with the all rounder. If the only use of the bottom collection container is harvesting yeast, then it would be useless to me as I am in the camp that buys new yeast for each batch. So the all rounder coupled with the hop bong...

I'm in the same boat, but I've lately been wondering if I am getting any negative affects from doing so, primarily having the beer rest on the yeast cake and dry hop (they go in commando) for the life of the keg, typically 1.5-2 months. I do not harvest yeast as I find it easier to spend ~$5-$8...