Amazon has them, but for something like a buck a piece.Excellent idea! I searched all over for that thread type in an adaptable fitting, with very few ideas. So cool! Thanks!
Amazon has them, but for something like a buck a piece.Excellent idea! I searched all over for that thread type in an adaptable fitting, with very few ideas. So cool! Thanks!
Thanks for the Amazon tip! This is why I love the Homebrew Talk site, so many great folks to share their findings and tips. I dug around my box of spare brewery stuff and found some old White Labs yeast vials. Not sure why I saved them but I'm glad I did. What a surprise find, I hope some of the other crap I have becomes as useful.Amazon has them, but for something like a buck a piece.
Do you have a build thread of this keezer. It is super clean, nice work!That's more or less what I did. Except I used oak veneer on ply for the finish, which is more stable generally.
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Sage advice. I just rebuilt my keezer from scratch and came to the same realization too late. Not only should I have put the taps over the hump but my two gas valve manifolds as well. Instead I have a high-pressure manifold to the left and a low-pressure to the right (over the hump). The taps and the high-pressure manifolds conspire to make it tricky business getting kegs in or out.I would keep your taps at the hump end and not in the middle (if your building a collar). It makes it tuff to load kegs if there in the middle, and taking the handles off each time is a pain.
18 taps? Damn man, that's a lot of beer. Can I come over and help you drink it. LOL.This post has some pictures of keezer #2. It’s been in operation for a few months now, and I’m mostly pretty happy with it. I didn’t follow the “a little extra room” advice, so replacing kegs is a pain.
"There is nothing as permanent as a temporary solution".I learned that if the collar you build as a stopgap is too good, you will never follow through with your plan to build something better.
I started out with a rough wood, painted white to match the chest freezer. After building a handsome fermentation chamber with a gel-stained pine collar, I wanted to revisit my keezer. I spent hours sanding down that collar to remove the white paint and rough finish, ultimately repeating the gel stain to create a much-improved collar only surpassed by the fermentation chamber. The thought of having to rebuild and restain that collar is upsetting. I admit that it could be several years."There is nothing as permanent as a temporary solution".
Said by somebody famous, probably.
How long are those lines and do you do anything to cool them?I decided to buy a beer cooler, it'll be delivered on Monday. It's a commercial kind, two doors, I can route beer lines out the back to my bar taps.
I haven't got the new cooler yet so I can't say exactly how long the lines will be but guessing I'm going to try to be five foot. I don't plan to cool the beer lines coming out of the cooler to the taps. As far as insulating them my plan is to use some of that water pipe insulation. Again, it's just a guess right now until I get the unit placed.How long are those lines and do you do anything to cool them?
Re: bolded sentence - Which is why I double-hinged my keezer. I can lift the lid or the entire collar. I also built the collar with 2x12's to accommodate a 5 gallon corny keg on the hump.My keezer died a few months back. Reflecting on my build and comparing to what I have now, my opinion is that unless you plan to have more than 2 kegs on tap, go with a kegerator. I found leaning over my collar into the keezer to clean it was a nightmare. Although it was well insulated, it seemed, at least to me that it was losing too much cold and the condenser was kicking on too much, which might have contributed to its early demise. Another issue with my keezer is that it was in my garage and during the winter the taps would freeze.
I have an old refrigerator that will hold 2 kegs and my C02 tank. I just use picnic taps for now. No Inkbird, just let it run at fridge temp. Keeps my beer nice and chilled. I also have more room in my door for canned beers and yeast. Sometime in the future I plan to run the C02 line thru the fridge to put my tank, regulator and distributor on the outside as well and possibly re-installing my 2 taps. (although I will probably have thr tap freezing problem in the winter.
I did enjoy my keezer and pouring beers from the taps but going forward, unless the wife lets me put it inside, I will not ever revisit building a keezer.
I just used this and have no issues with bugs. The weight of my 2x12 collar holds securely in place. I've checked temperatures around the lid and collar and there doesn't appear to be any cool air leaking.I never attached my collar to my keezer. It sits flat and doesn't budge when I open and close the door. Hasn't been a problem, but I am thinking of doing some light sealing to keep tiny bugs out.
Liquid nails and ratchet straps. My collar had a bit of warp to it and I held the collar down while the liquid nails was curing with ratchet straps. Once cured the collar stayed flat.How have folks attached the collar to the freezer? My freezer is in the crawlspace under my kitchen, and I have a trunk line going up through the kitchen floor and cabinet to a tap tower. The clearance in the crawlspace is low, so I used 2x4s instead of 2x6s. Unfortunately, the 2x4s were a bit warped, so I soaked them and weighted them down in my shed to correct the warped collar frame. Most of the warp is corrected, but I'm worried that when the collar gets cold it may twist again.
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